SD Servo conversion

[Scotty]

I managed to get my SD servo conversion done last night and it really is great. I just have one issue and that is how to countersink the screw heads. What tool do I need and any idea where I could get one?

;D

[johnbull]

You can countersink the holes with an 8mm drill. Just drill 1mm, but be ever so careful. You may end up with an 8mm hole.

Plan it all beforehand. measure it properly and put a stopper on the pillar shaft if you are using a pillar drill.

If you are using a hand drill you will need to be extra careful.

Good luck.

Joe from sunny Malta.

[nitro-head]

what modification are you talking about? my sd seems fine with any servo conversion.

[Scotty]

Thanks for that Joe ... I will give it a go this evening.

The mod is to move the servo to a more direct steering by placing it parrallel to the steering mechanism. This has a few advantages in that it gives more responsive steering, eliminates play in the steering and also gives more space for electrics. The Rayspeed conversion kit has this configuration of steering and servo.

The Yokomo USA site has loads of pics of SD's and most have been modified ....!

Cheers
Scott
;D

[nitro-head]

thank you, do does this conversion turn the servo the other way round then?

[Scotty]

The servo horn faces towards the front of the car. ;)

[nitro-head]

eh, i am confused now. ???
scooty, could you email me a pic or a link please so i know what you lot are talking about.
thanks

[scott taylor]

the servo is turned from being vertical to hroizontal on the chassis for the reasons that scotty has just said

[Scotty]

PM sent ;D

[nitro-head]

tick tock tick tock.............

where is my PM :'(

[Eddie]

Don't suppose those that have done this mod could provide an idiots guide?

[Scotty]

Here is a guide I found by Joe Anastasi from sunny Malta.

MOUNTING SD SERVO ACROSS THE CHASSIS.

1. Remove centre chassis brace and top plate.

2. Fit servo mounts to servo with servo horn outermost, as mine is in the pics.

3. Place servo on chassis. Move it as far forward as possible. It won't hit anything. Now draw round it all with a felt pen.

4. Remove mounts and mark position of holes on chassis. You will have to estimate these but it shouldn't be difficult now that you have an outline of the whole unit.

5. Drill holes - 3mm, and countersink at bottom of chassis. I use a 6mm drill to countersink, but be very careful you don't go right through.

6. Shorten inner mount and correct side bracket on servo to fit under centre brace.

7. Fit steering levers with servo saver on left, and with optional arm - supplied in kit.

You will now only need a longer turnbuckle, and you're in business.

Just a few points from my experience of doing this. I used X-Ray servo mounts as they are aluminium and I prefer them. The ball stud that is on the Servo Saver needs to be the long type and I used a 2mm spacer to lift it up so the steering arm did not hit the driveshaft.

It really does look better and my steering feels a lot more direct, can't wait for the weekend to test it out.... but I am expecting big things.

[johnbull]

Hi friends. Greetings from Malta.

NITRO HEAD. There are pics of my car in the Yoke USA site. You will have to go back a few pages. There are clear pics of the servo conversion.

I have now changed it again, moving the servo even further forward and linking it directly on the rod that joins the two steering arms - a bit like the TC3 system. This means the servo turnbuckle now runs between the steering pivots and the front bulkhead.

It also meant that I could remove the rear arm part of the left steering pivot, which in turn meant I can move the cells further forward.

It handles very well.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.