B4 accesories

[CrazyCano]

Hi,

I am in the process of getting a B4 factory team (when they are released). What additional items will i need to buy? Springs, pistons, hop-ups etc

Thanks
Alex

Dan Greenwood- I have finally given in!

[Olly Webb]

Al did you play with Andys last night?

If so how did it go?

Ol

[scott_davis]

Hi,

I am in the process of getting a B4 factory team (when they are released). What additional items will i need to buy? Springs, pistons, hop-ups etc

Thanks
Alex

Dan Greenwood- I have finally given in!


Well if I was too buy one I would make sure it had the following:

- Alum brace (would assume FT vers would have one?)
- Titanium Turnbuckles ( again would assume FT have them)
- MIP Shock Shafts and Blue seals (make a BIG difference)
- Titanium Hingepin Kit

Other than that not alot - you can buy spring kits seperately, pistons, etc come with the kit.

You shouldnt need to spend any real money on hop ups either as its a FT version so should be FULL ON!!! :D

I did what DC Racing recommended and bought a team version and added the hop ups.... ;)

Scott.

[Southwell]

Well when the b3 factory kit came out i needed 25g lead in front bumper to start with.
25deg caster for places like tivvy.
rear antisquat plates for different tracks/weather etc.
1,2, and 3 pistons numbers.
mainly used silver, green (occasionally), blue and brown springs.
All i can think most of the things will be to tune the car to tracks rather than hopup's.

What happened to the xxx alex?
I sent out my entry form and cheque last night. Can you change me from f4 to f5 please.

[CrazyCano]

No problemo ian... the xxx is still going well, just think that maybe the b4 ha sthe edge over it!

[Paul Rotheram]

The factory team kit has everything you need on the car as is plus a nice graphite woaven battery strap - you need not buy anything except some tyres for your track and to install your electronics, happy racing :)

[MattW]

You might end up buying a std chassis, and probably 30 deg caster blocks.

[Paul Rotheram]

yes true the graphite chassis changes the way the car handles, as a friend of mine realised it affects it a huge amount even on the straight (car was bouning around) but before you buy ANYTHING, take it out on the track and see if you like it or not, start out on the standard setup and go from their - making changes from the start is a big no no as you need to gradually perfect your set up as i am currently doing.

i had raced my B4 on the standard set up for a few weeks racing before i even made any changes as i liked it so much.

although i belive that the factory team B4 has a different standard setup as the team kit has so maybe if you used the team kit set up would be good as i think the factory set up is just for clay tracks.

[super__dan]

Hi,

I am in the process of getting a B4 factory team (when they are released). What additional items will i need to buy? Springs, pistons, hop-ups etc

Thanks
Alex

Dan Greenwood- I have finally given in!


Good lad :)

Though I look forward to having a go of your FT I must admit that I think that the plastic version is just as good and maybe better. I know a lot of the yanks claim its harder to set up than a plastic version and few if any claim its any faster.

As for tune ups, I've tried most bits like inline axles, 30 deg blocks etc but have gone back to kit stuff as I personally prefer it. However saying that an ally front brace is nice and Ti buckles essential (but both must be in the kit I assume). Have a set of blue and silver front springs is essential and a set of gray and maybe blue rears usefull though outdoors rarely used.

I like/prefer the RPM gear cover (B4 proper one) and I also prefer the RPM plastic ball cups as a little tighter on the ball ends but both are minor and far from essential.

Oh yeah and get some sticky back lead weights.

Other than that there really is nothing you need to buy its so good out of the box (minor setup changes aside). Some yanks run losi pistons but I don't an don't know anyone who does, just good old #1's and #2's. You shouldn't need any spurs either as the kit 81 is fine.

Dan

PS a set of snips for front tyre spike removal is usefull

[DA_cookie_monstA]

This should give you an idea, this is an official pic from the Asociated site B4 (http://www.teamassociated.com/shusting/CatalogHub/kitspecs_b4/9035_B4FTtop_800.jpg)

[Paul Rotheram]

only thing that is missing from that picture is the blue screws (which are included in the kit!!) only thing i really suggest you purchase is some silver and blue springs as the ones that come in the kit a only for yank tracks.

[millzy]

And blue washers and blue shock tops!!

Personly i dont want the ft, my b4 was at the spec of the ft and it was bunk until i got the plastic chassis

[super__dan]

only thing that is missing from that picture is the blue screws (which are included in the kit!!) only thing i really suggest you purchase is some silver and blue springs as the ones that come in the kit a only for yank tracks.

Blue(ally) screws, are almost a total waste of time and place a great risk to the reliability of your car. Don't ever place them in any loaded pace only as in places for retaining e.g. gear cover.

Do we know how much lighter the FT is over the std car as next time I go to club I'm going to run with the extra weight in mine as ballast and run back to back times to see if I can actually notice the diference.

Dan

[CrazyCano]

Thanks for all the info guys,

i am gonna purchase
blue and silver front springs
Grey and blue rear springs
Plastic chassis (will try graphite one first)
Sticky back weights (where do these go?)
Some no.1 and no.2 pistons

Also what would you guys gear a 10D and a 9D on?

What about spares, what bits break... im guessing shockmounts/wishbones... naything else?

Thanks
Guys

[tyreman]

You don't need any spares as they very rearly break.

Pistions - you get all of them in the kit.

Weights you can get from any tyre fitter (ats) or if you wait until the next national I have got loads from work you can have.
I have only needed to put 10grams in the front and that is more that enough.

The RPM gear cover Dan mentioned you don't need to buy as the latest kits come with the new assosiated molded gear cover.

What type of motors are they?
If they are the Orion V2 range 10x2 on 21/22-81
I run the Luna motors which are Reedy TI based on 10x2 25/78.

Oil for the front is 35/40wt assosiated oil with No: 1 pistions and blue springs(if you use losi oil you need to deduct about 2.5wt as this compensates for the dye).
The rear 30wt assosiated oil with No:2 pistions and silver springs.
The link positions run them as per kit, except mount the shock bottoms in the inside hole on the front and rear wishbones.

[super__dan]

Brian,

Are those setting's FT specific, I don't know if you've got the FT or not? I ask as I don't know anyone who runs weight in the front and nearly everyone I know runs weight in the rear.

Personaly I seem to gear motors (TI based Infinitiy's) lower than everyone else, so I know I'm in the minority but my car is hardly slow, was quick enough to 'push' an F1 driver who shall remain nameless up the straight in the final at Batley on Sunday.

I've seen the new AE gear cover and whilst its an improvement on the original its still not nearly as good as the RPM one, though maybe its lighter but as most people will have noticed I think the more weight over the back end the better.

Also from the look of that FT pic above it looks like they come with black rear springs, so you'll need to get silver ones too.

Dan

[super__dan]

oh yeah,

I keep spare wishbones/towers in the box, have broken 1 front wishbone and 2 rear towers in 1 year of running, both towers were of very 'hard' tracks like bury.

Also you NEED a HD servo saver spring, its a must as on high grip the car will handle very inconsistantly as the lock winds off and then on again mid corner. Other than that there isn't really anything other than a bulkhead just in case as they are only £2ish anyway.

Personally I would gear a TI 10D on 21/81 but ran 20/81 on the weekend as its was boiling and wanted to extend the motor life betweens skims/brush changes.

[scott_davis]

oh yeah,

I keep spare wishbones/towers in the box, have broken 1 front wishbone and 2 rear towers in 1 year of running, both towers were of very 'hard' tracks like bury.

Also you NEED a HD servo saver spring, its a must as on high grip the car will handle very inconsistantly as the lock winds off and then on again mid corner. Other than that there isn't really anything other than a bulkhead just in case as they are only £2ish anyway.

Personally I would gear a TI 10D on 21/81 but ran 20/81 on the weekend as its was boiling and wanted to extend the motor life betweens skims/brush changes.

Defo need the HD Servo Spring - I was suffering from a serious lack of rear grip on grippy parts of my local track that seems to have been cured by installing the HD Spring......

I gear my Reedy KR 11D at 81/23 and my BRM 12D at 81/26....

Scott