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marcoski
04-07-2003, 07:09 PM
Hi All,

I have just gone through all five pages (hard work!) and have drawn up a list of frequently asked questions. Some topics have been repeated two or three times as they fall onto page 3,4 and 5! Subject to permission, I will be tidying this section and removing some of the older threads. It is my intention, however, to leave threads that talk about charger models. Please take the time to look through the older threads before posting a new thread that may have already been discussed!

FAQ:

Q. How do I tell if a cell is dead?

A. Charge the pack then drive till it dumps. Then get a motor and try it on each cell.
good cells will run the motor for some time, on the bad one, the motor will soon stop.

Q. How to convert stick to saddle

A.1 Cut apart the stick pack, and use an old pair of scissors to cut through the linking straps
2 Use a pair of needle pliers and peel the link straps off the cells, like opening a can of corned beef.
You can use a dremel or file to remove the spot welds, if desired
3 Use a hot iron and a small amount of solder to tin each end of the cell. Plus end is easy, minus end takes a little longer.
4 Check the shrink on the cells is good, or reshrink if you are in any doubt
5 Hold the cells in a soft jaw vice, or jig, and lay a bar on top.
6 Using your hot iron, heat the joint and run a little solder in to complete. I find it easier to
tack the plus end first to keep the bar in place, then work on the minus end, finish up by
completing the plus end.
7 Once the bars are on, prepare a link wire. Wrap the stripped end with a layer and a half of solder.
lay the end on the cell, and reflow with the hot iron. The wire will tin and take to the cell in one move.
8 Corrallies - wrap 5 turns of solder (24 swg) round the end to be soldered. Hold it on the cell with some fine needle nose pliers, and use the hot iron to reflow the join. The corrally will be tinned and the joint made in one move.
9 If desired, glue the cells together with araldite or zap a dap a goo (lol)

Q. How often should I charge my wet cell.

A. All the time! Should be left on a maintenance or float charge when its not being used. When bulk charging, the charger will bring it up to 14.8 volts, at which point, it will fall back to 13.8 volts for the maintenance or float charge.

Q. I have problems charging NiMH cells on my millennium pro

A. Use the nicad linear setting and set delta peak to 40mV for 6 pack and current at 5 or 6 amps.This is how I do it, but don't blame me if it all goes Pete Tong!

Q. Should I force cool my cells with a fan?

A. No, this will harm your cells and lead you to falsely beleive they are cool in their core.

Q. What delta peak should I use for 3300s?

A. At 5 amps use 40mV and at 6 amps use 30mV. In all cases, keep the cell temp less than 50 degrees C. This is using a linear charge and 6 cells. Use 30mV @ 5A or 20mV @ 6A for four cells.

Q. Whats the best cells for 27T stock?

A. Decent 2400s followed closely by second gen GP3300s. If you race other classes, cheaper to get 3300.

Q. One of my cells gets really hot during (dis)charge - whats up?

A. That cell is dead. You could replace it, but it will be hard to match it to the others.

Q. How to discharge 3300s?

A. Discharge the pack on a high current discharger to 0.9 volts per cell. Then equalise on a tray till the
light goes out. Remove from the tray as soon as the light goes out! Difficult with a stick pack, granted!

Q. Whats the significance of peak voltage?

A. On new cells, its a measure of how aggressive the voltage enhancement treatment has been. For 6 packs,
young normal cells will peak at 9.1 to 9.2, voltage enhanced at around 9.6. As the cells age, the peak
voltage will rise. Non enhanced cells are pretty dead when the peak voltage exceeds 10 volts.

Q. Can I use 3300s more than once per day?

A. Yes you can - they are better on the second run. Just discharge, equalise and allow to cool before
using then again.

Q. I am taking a break, how do I store my cells.

A. Store them flat and equalised. Cycle once every two weeks.

Q. How to care for my cells during a meeting?

A. This is Dooms regime that he has used for some time to great effect, and a method that I personally use to care for my DCRacing GP3300s. Please note that this is just one method of many, and we will not be held responsible for any suspected damage that may ensue. However, my cells are still in tip top condition, so it cant be a bad method.

My cell maintainence routine;

Charge at 6amps
0.06v Delta Peak (default on a version 10.34 ProTrak)
Use
Discharge to 5.4v
Use The Equaliser until light goes out.

Then I either start again, ensuring the cells are cool, or store until next use.
I am currently getting readings of about 4100mAh in to the cells (DCR GP3300)

Obviously you can use an EQ tray if you dont have The Equaliser to hand, and the discharge to 5.4 volts should be done at high current, 20A or more.

Q. Is the inpole spider suitable for unmatched packs / will it restore aged or ill matched packs.

A. No - the spider is only suitable for use on well matched packs. It is most effective if used on new packs right from the start, and religiously every run. The spider will do its job properly in keeping the pack matched. As there are no diodes or other cut off mechanism, the spider will not equalise a poorly matched pack. The spider must be removed as soon as the light goes out, it must not be left on the cells indefinately.

Cheers

Marcus

marcoski
08-09-2003, 01:35 PM
New cell care regime added for GP3300s ;D

Doomanic
24-11-2003, 12:39 PM
Spider info added.

G.Man
26-12-2004, 04:29 PM
Useful site for battery info with no BS...

http://www.batteryuniversity.com/index.htm

:D

Luke da Machine
12-12-2007, 07:51 AM
put your battery on a discharger (equalizer) and see what reading it is on each cell if they are low then they are the bad cells

joe of loath
02-05-2008, 10:15 PM
is it possible to redo the guide for the next-gen batteries? (4200+), since they are somewhat... temperamental.

CT Race Bodies
25-03-2010, 03:29 PM
Very informative! I've just got my hands on a Muchmore Racing Dr.4K discharger and the instruction manual is clear on what to do but not clear on what it does...does that make sense? anyway there is a switch and you can choose equalise or condition. I understand what equalise option is but I don't understand what conditioning is and what the purpose of setting the time limit for it to run in this mode?

Also on my CTX-D2 (another recent ebay purchase) there is a 'dead short mode' function. What does this do and is it ok to use on NiMh?

Many thanks,
Chris