Sp12m

[pete_slim]

Hi all,

Does anybody have any pictures of trheir SP12M that I can use for reference.

More specifically, pictures of the area around the T-Bar between the cells. Underneath where the centre damper would go from the conversion kit.

I bought a second hand graphite car and plan to use it for 4 cell racing, and am just aboout to buy the damper conversion. Something looks dramatically different and Im curious as to why.
The pictures on corally webpage look like tha there are a few different configurations of the t-bar. or a few different t-bars.

help

Please send me an e-mail with the pics if possible.

cheers

pete

[pete_slim]

I have found a picture of a Sp12m with a 're-inforced t-bar brace'.
Is this essential if using the damper conversion?

If not.... where do you fasten the front screw mount on the new radio tray to?

Help again

Cheers

pete

[jason]

Pete,
The reinforced t bar brace was for the 6 cell car because alot of material is removed for the cells it helps to stiffen the chassis. Alot of people run a version of it in 4 cell cars and there is one that is compatable with a tweak plate. As for t bars most people run the GRP one with the tube damper set up.

Hope that helps

Jason

[pete_slim]

Pete,
The reinforced t bar brace was for the 6 cell car because alot of material is removed for the cells it helps to stiffen the chassis. Alot of people run a version of it in 4 cell cars and there is one that is compatable with a tweak plate. As for t bars most people run the GRP one with the tube damper set up.

Hope that helps

Jason

Cheers Jason,

I am presuming that you run a SP12M?.

And Now to further my query.... On the radio tray for the Damper conversion, it has a screw hole at its front extremety (situated over the T-bar - betwen the cells).

Do you have to have a screw in here (in the instance that you dont use the t-bar brace)?
I am presuming not because there would be nothing for the post to fasten onto.

I think it may become clearer when I have the bits in my hands, I just dont want to have to order twice.

pete

[jason]

Pete,
Yes I run a 12m, you should be able to get away without bracing the radio tray after all it does not take the load in bump like the standard set up. If you wish to brace it you will need to order the t bar connector and the ally spacer for it. Also you should counter sink the bottom of the connector plate so the screwhead below does not foul the t bar.

Jason

[pete_slim]

Pete,
Yes I run a 12m, you should be able to get away without bracing the radio tray after all it does not take the load in bump like the standard set up. If you wish to brace it you will need to order the t bar connector and the ally spacer for it. Also you should counter sink the bottom of the connector plate so the screwhead below does not foul the t bar.

Jason

Cheers Jason,

Just the info I needed.

Pete

[pete_slim]

Is there anyone out there other than me who has bought the tube damper kit for their SP12M who are very unimpressed with the quality of the balljoints?.

Absolutely loads of play in the balljoint/cups in the side-side dampers before the tubes even think of moving. :eek:
It was not the kind of quality and standard that I was expecting to see from a corally product.

It is so bad that I've replaced them before I used them.:mad:

[B_Final_Bob]

The ballcups were not that good on the Assassin either, you saw them on mine and they weren't very good! Looking at the works drivers cars, they had replaced them. As you say, pretty unusual for Corally as they are usually very high quality.

Instead of replacing them I ended up buying a new car :(

Liam

[MikeS]

Liam, the kits came with some short 3mm set screws that you screwed into the ball joint sleeves first and used to set the fit on the ball - there was also a note about it from Corally.

Pete, I would use this method as well as you can then adjust the fit to the ball exactly to your liking.

[pete_slim]

Woops - very sorry Pete, I think I edited your post by accident!
Mike.

Pete I agree, and as they did this they (Corally) must also have known the fit was too slack as standard! The kit i was referring to was the Assassin, but I will check in the tube damper kit and see if they have done that also.....I would also check the ball diameters as this may be part of the reason.....

[pete_slim]

Mike,


No worries about editting a post. I was probably rambling on anyway. :D

As for the balljoints/cups. I know of at least one other corally 12m owner who has upgraded to the tube damper and who has significant play in the ball cups.

Certainly not the corally I knew of old!!.

Proof of quality will be when I finally get the chance to race it! :o

[steven bough]

Ive noticed the SP12M As come down in price

[pete_slim]

Ive noticed the SP12M As come down in price

I havent paid much attention to the kit prices as I have one already (obviously). But I would certainly guess that the spares will be of comparable price.
I have to say that overall, the quality of the corally car is far superior to anything else I've ever had the pleasure of owning.
In retrospect, I have replaced the ballcups on my tube damper/centre shock absorber, and am waiting for the permit from my missus before I can go out and play!! ;)
Keenly awaiting the start of the 1/12 season and waiting for teeside club track to have its bumps ironed too.

Looking forward to enjoying some racing again.

[John Lindsay]

I was quite annoyed to find that the Ballcups on my assassin were very slack. I put the 3mm grub screws in and they were ok (or so i thougt) Untill I found that the steering would no longer centre correctly as the grub screws had made it tight. I turned the grub screws out half a turn and it loosened off but then again there was play in the steering.

What have you changed to? I have an X-Ray on my "wall of fame" and I think that the Ball cups and balls are of a very high quality and looked into replacing the Corally ones with these but it turned out to be an expensive outlay.

John

[pete_slim]

I was quite annoyed to find that the Ballcups on my assassin were very slack. I put the 3mm grub screws in and they were ok (or so i thougt) Untill I found that the steering would no longer centre correctly as the grub screws had made it tight. I turned the grub screws out half a turn and it loosened off but then again there was play in the steering.

What have you changed to? I have an X-Ray on my "wall of fame" and I think that the Ball cups and balls are of a very high quality and looked into replacing the Corally ones with these but it turned out to be an expensive outlay.

John

John,

On my 1/12, I changed my ball cups for some fastrax ones with replacement balls too as they dont get the useage the steering arms would normally do. (I have heard that the fastrax ones wear out quickly).

The fastrax ones were small too like the original corally ones so they didnt look to OTT.

AS for recommending any... well, When I had my TC3 I replaced my factory ball cups for RPM ones. They were top notch, very smooth and not sloppy at all. Not that expensive either.

:D

[johnbull]

Try Schumacher Ball Grippas.

They should be readily available in Uk and cheaper than most others.

And believe me they are brilliant.