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burgie
08-03-2004, 07:41 PM
A friend of mine, (really, I do have one!) is having problems breaking his Yoke SD. Only small glances with track markers is seeing all sorts of things break.

Doesa nybody know:-

what can be done to stop this?
and will TC3 bits fot the Yoke as we know the TC3 wishbones ares strong.

Any suggestions would be gratefully received.

Thanks

jonny69
08-03-2004, 09:48 PM
I dont know what you people do wrong, I am not a great driver, My car is as fast as the A final cars, (but of course I cant drive it). This means I tend to crash quite alot; cartwheels, flips, hits agains the wall etc. So far all that has gone wrong is the driveshaft, and that is only because I didn't threadlock the screw. Jonathan.

sosidge
08-03-2004, 10:07 PM
I dont know what you people do wrong, I am not a great driver, My car is as fast as the A final cars, (but of course I cant drive it). This means I tend to crash quite alot; cartwheels, flips, hits agains the wall etc. So far all that has gone wrong is the driveshaft, and that is only because I didn't threadlock the screw. Jonathan.


Hear! Hear!

Should I feel like an outsider because my SD DOESN'T break? No!

I don't know where all the problems come from either... must be a southern thing! (even though I am a Southerner, but I race my car in the icy Northern air!).

Chubby SD Racer
08-03-2004, 10:40 PM
dunno if yokomo has had any problems with quality control, over short period of time recently, but bought my SD as soon as I could get one, no problems, broke nothing.....Then did a front hub and rear wishbone at Olympiad just before Xmas. Then in 2 weeks following, (on wood floor and running 540 motors so speed not excessive) did 5 hubs :o,

Not broken a thing since. the yoke seems to have a name for breaking, but i have not had that much of a problem with above incidents the exception.

johnbull
09-03-2004, 09:51 AM
Hi friends. Greetings from Malta.

Can't say I notice any more breakages with Yokes than with any other cars here in Malta. However I do think thumbs have a bit of a say in things.

A customer bought a TC3 a while ago. He used to break a wishbone every time he ran it. literally a wishbone in every qualifying heat, and another in the final. All DNFs of course.

He sold it in disgust - because he said it was too fragile. The fellow that bought it has done 3 complete meetings with it, with better results, and absolutely no breakages.

Form your own conclusions.

But back to Yokes, I understand there were some reliability problems with the first batch of some parts but I also understand that these have been addressed by Yoke since.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.

Eddie
09-03-2004, 11:37 AM
Check through the gallery in Yokomousa, there are two pics of an SD with TC3 alloy knuckles, hubs and wishbones. Looks a good idea but you risk translating the force of an impact to the chassis which won't be cheap if you damage it.

I've gone for MR4 alloy steering knuckles and will be getting MR4 alloy hub carriers and alloy wishbone mounts. I'm leaving the bones plastic so if anything breaks it will be them which I have a supply of.

At one meeting the cost of breakages on my SD came to over £50 due to a big chunk breaking of the drive cup on the front shaft. Out of 6 SDs only 1 surived the whole meet intact.

burgie
09-03-2004, 03:38 PM
thanks Edward, at last a constructive answer instead of all the inane rubbishe that people like to reply with.

If they have nothing helpful to say, I wish they would say nothing at all instead of trying to get their post count up.

Thanks once again, Edward.

cobra81li200
09-03-2004, 03:53 PM
graphite hubs / c-hubs are much stronger than the stock ones. First, the front hubs holds the king pins properly, unlike the stock ones. Second, the C-Hub are thicker (same thickness as the H version).

About the wishbones, I saw some breaking on light crashes (sometimes just hitting the track marks slowly) and those showed up molding defects. I'm collecting them to take pictures and send them to M. Hirosaka, if other pple do the same it might help them sorting the problem.

After a big crash, make sure your hinge pins are not bent, they are quite thin and bends easily, they're not expensive though.

A Gower
09-03-2004, 06:50 PM
on the pics on the yoke forum, the wishbones are standard tc3 ones put the alloy hubs and knuckles arnt, they are a speacil make to fit.

tc3 wishbones do fit, its just you have to put spacers either side of the inner part of the wishbone on the hinge pin as they are allot narrower.

A Gower

johnbull
10-03-2004, 09:12 AM
Broke a wishbone on mine yesterday!

So should I blame Yoke? Or should I blame it on brain fade?

The car launched itself off a banking. Cartwheeled about a dozen times in the air, then landed squarely on it's left rear wheel.

Result: 1 broken wishbone.

Is anyone really surprised!

cobra81li200
10-03-2004, 01:33 PM
No that's almost what happened to me every time I broke a wishbone...

burgie
10-03-2004, 02:56 PM
but the wishbones are breaking on very slight glances with the barriers or even on the "bot dots" this car has no strength in it whatsoever.

We are not talking cartwheels, high jumps massive high speed impacts, because we have been racing long enough to realise these break cars.

I wuold have hoped you would have given credit for this.

Eddie
10-03-2004, 03:00 PM
Have to say I've never broken a wishbone, just lots for steering arms and C hubs.

If you have a heavy impact you just have to accept that something may well break. The thing is that in some instances the incident shouldn't cause failure of any part but it does on occasion with SDs.

I've glanced plastic conduit at a very slight angle (running all but parallel) and cracked a C hub at quite low speed - not really acceptable in my opinion.

A Gower
10-03-2004, 06:35 PM
dont meen to sound rude, but if ur crashing that much then you should proberly slow down. im sure most cars would brake after highspeed impacts and the rest.

the car is desgined for handling not for strength, and even if it breaks from only slight glances, just be more careful .

Dont meen to sound rude :o :o
A Gower

John Davie
10-03-2004, 07:03 PM
For the short time ( about 2 1/2 months ) i had a SD last year i managed to break 3 wishbones , all of them was fairly light single rolls after taking a too tight line over a curb. Ran Tamiya EVO III the rest of last year in the Torc series and broke nothing even after taking a massive hit multicar pile up at the start of one final.

From a personal point of view i think the material used is not quite as strong as some other cars, also helps if you dont crash the car every run as any car will break in time after too much abuse.

al
10-03-2004, 07:04 PM
boil parts is the best suggestion

AzNDRAGster
11-03-2004, 01:10 AM
I've only broken one A-Arm . . . ;D

Bosscat
12-03-2004, 08:43 AM
Have run TC3, Losi and now an SD and can honestly say that all have both survived heavy crashes and broken bits with just clipping a barrier its not how hard you hit something its also what angle you hit it at.
The SD in my opinion is no worse than other cars on the market.

BC Rog
13-03-2004, 09:25 PM
I have to disagree with the strength concerns.

Whilst doing reseach for the Mako project I ran an SD (with no slipper and little consideration for preservation of anything) as a 'rally car' on a BMX track. I even meshed the gears as loosely as possible and after more runs than I bothered to count getting as much air on the jumps as I could I didn't break or wear a thing!!!!

I think the car is plenty strong enough and could actually do with loosing material from some places to save a bit of weight!!!

Rog

cobra81li200
13-03-2004, 11:08 PM
Then you've been lucky, as I think there are some problems to get consistency in the molding process, according to the differents breakages I saw on different cars. Maybe you just had wishbones that are fine...

Doomanic
14-03-2004, 08:57 PM
Re the Mako project, it uses SD graphite front castor blocks and rear hub carriers.
By the end of qualifying at the Indoor Finals at Watford, the only casualty was an MR4BC front suspension arm and hingepin.
Despite the pin being so bent we had to snip off the broken suspension arm to remove it, the castor block was undamaged. :o

How you touring car boys are doing so much damage is beyond me! ;D

cobra81li200
14-03-2004, 11:33 PM
Well, the graphite parts are way stronger than the stock parts, and they are not available in UK so far, so most UK drivers have issues with their cars.

Now since I've switched to graphite parts, I hardly broke anything unless a huge crash happens, where any other car would have broken as well.

By the way, the suzuki front hubs are available in USA since friday, I bet they'll be gone very fast, or better, than they produced a very large amount !

Doomanic
14-03-2004, 11:50 PM
Generally speaking, graphite parts are more susceptible to breakage than plastic parts.
They are lighter and stiffer, not stronger.

There was a link on the Associated section to an article that explained it all.

johnbull
15-03-2004, 09:23 AM
Hi friends. Greetings from Malta.

DOOM. You beat me to it, about graphite parts not being any stronger.

I've been looking at the design of the SD wishbones and am starting to understand why they always snap at the same point. I think I also have a cure.

If you look at TC3 wishbones you will see that they have a brace on their outer extremity to keep them square. The SD doesn't. If you bash a corner, just one side of the wishbone takes all the bash. We need to split the load across both sides of the wishbone.

What I am going to try to do this afternoon is remove the outer hingepin and replace it with a diff screw and nut. This way the ends will be captive and should be stronger.

At the moment I'm just imagining. I'll let you know how it goes.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta

DA_cookie_monstA
15-03-2004, 09:32 AM
The link for the truth about Graphite parts is HERE (http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/Graphite_Myths.pdf)

Doomanic
15-03-2004, 09:59 AM
Thanks DCM. ;)

sosidge
15-03-2004, 11:21 AM
If you look at TC3 wishbones you will see that they have a brace on their outer extremity to keep them square. The SD doesn't. If you bash a corner, just one side of the wishbone takes all the bash. We need to split the load across both sides of the wishbone.

Are you sure about that Joe? My SD wishbones have an outer brace to spread those loads. Unless people are snipping them off because thy think it's a moulding sprue.

Chubby SD Racer
15-03-2004, 10:15 PM
Mine too sosidge....Only broken one wishbone when the drainpipe popped off at Chippenhams Olympiad, revealing a wooden block in the fastest corner of the track!!!! :o :o

sosidge
16-03-2004, 10:35 AM
Well I've never broken a wishbone - yet I've managed to bend a hinge-pin in an impact with a metal girder embedded in the wall of our club's hall... wishbone stayed intact, upright and C-hub broke.

A Gower
16-03-2004, 07:13 PM
lol. no wonder it broke :P :P :P

and somebody at my club has made some pieces of aluminium into like a little cover that goes around the endge of the wishbons near the thin part to give it more strength. i havent sure them yet or if it makes any differnce but il find out on sat.
Gower