TC3 RearDiff

[Cam]

Last week I maintained the diffs in my second hand TC3. I noticed that the rear diff was different from the front diff in that the outdrives were made of metal and there was no recess in the short outdrive to hold the nyloc nut captive. Is this the standard TC3 diff or has someone fitted something else to it.

My concern is that with nothing to hold the nyloc nut captive the diff will loosen quite quickly, plus it is a pain to adjust in the car.

All advice gratefully received.

Cam :) :)

[Phil C]

Is the diff blue?

[mark34]

Sounds like you have one of the original diffs that AE produced you need to get a a t nut to tighten these. AE still produce them and you should be able to get them from LHS
Cheers
Mark

[Cam]

Mark,

I have managed to tighten the diff but it is not possible to adjust it once reassembled. Can you clarify what a "T nut " is and would it allow me to make the adjustments in an assembled condition ?

One other question;

I had problems with the rear diff being tighter than the front one causing the rear end to try and overtake the front end. I have adjusted the diffs so that the front is now tighter than the rear. I was told by someone today that the diffs should be tight enough so that it requires quite a bit of effort to rotate them in opposite directions. Any looser and they will spin under load from the motor.

Can anyone give some advice on the relationship between fr & Rr diffs ?

I run on a polished wood floor with low traction.

Cheers

Cam

[Southwell]

AS6575 (Part number)

Associated

T-NUT & THRUST BOLT

Run the front diff slightely tighter than the rear diff Gives it better traction and stops the car swapping ends as easily

[mark34]

Ian you beat me to it just looking up part number
Cheers
Mark

[Southwell]

8)

[Cam]

Cheers Ian,

I bought two diff re-build kits and both came with the "T nuts" I fitted them and can access them with an allen key however it is the opposite end with the nyloc nut (as3904) fitted that I can not get a hold off to adjust without splitting the diff case on the rear.

Cam :-

[Southwell]

Thought the nyloc nut went in the t nut? Or am i thinkin Losi?!?!

[rc_jammer]

The metal diff should have a T-Nut, this is white plastic with a metal thread inside it, this is how the diff can be adjusted in the car

The plastic diff should have a nyloc nut that sits into a mould in the diff half.

The diff bolt will go into different diff halves.
I think the plastic one the diff bolt goes into the long first with the thrust race on it and the nyloc nut sits into the short end, the metal diff bolt goes into the short end first and the t-Nut goes in the long end with the thrust race.

You should find that the diff screw when in the car is adjusted from the same side of the car front and back. (Right hand side if metal diff is rear and plastic front)

You might find the metal diff will feel tighter because the diff rings are round and dont locate so are free to rotate so in order for the diff not to slip it needs to be a little tighter. The plastic diff has locting bits (1 flat - D shape) so the diff rings can not turn meaning that the diff can be run that little bit looser without slipping.

What I used to do with the metal diffs (well on any car that didn't have flats to locate the diff rings) is araldite them in place so they couldn't move, just making sure that the diff ring was flat against the diff half so not much araldite was used at all, this meant the diff could be run a bit looser and feel smoother but not slip

[Joost van Leeuwen]

If you start racing seriously I would replace it with a plastic diff though. (Especially for stock/19T racing)
The metal ones are twice as heavy, 30gr. vs. 15 gr. of rotating mass.

[Cam]

I adjusted the diffs as per advice and the car handled much better tonight. A plastic diff is now on order.

Thanks for everyones input

Cam ;)