View Full Version : Surikarn Evo III Build Advice needed

AE86 Sheep
02-09-2003, 02:13 PM

Hello all,

Just bought the Surikarn Evo III (chosen over the Yok SD) and about to build it. I've just put some superglue around the edge of the carbon top deck, but that's as far as I've got so far. Question is, is there anything I need to watch out for in the build that might catch me out? Anything you'd recomend I do or whatever would be really apreciated.

Thanks in advance for any replys (and possible congratulations on choosing the right car ;D )

(Need to change my name now, just moved from an Axis 2 :P )

John Davie
02-09-2003, 04:06 PM
Have you read this months Radio Race Car as they have a full review of the kit plus a couple of building tips that should help you out. Apart from that the building of the kit is very straight forward but like any kit just take your time and the end result will be a very fine car indeed.

AE86 Sheep
02-09-2003, 05:50 PM
Thanks, I'll have a ride down to WH Smiths then. That will be the first time in long long while since I bought a Radio Race Car. The last one I bought was reviewing the Cat 2000 touring car ;D

02-09-2003, 06:06 PM
well ill tell you something that caught me out
( i might just be stupid )

the steering components i forgot to put the black spacer in to stop it from wobbling. in the manual on page 14 it shows in the first picture that the spacers are going on to the steering but down the side where is lists the parts it didnt label the part number so i missed it out :-X

everything else was coolish, erm it might help to put a tiny bit of thread lock on the screws with go into the aliminium like the camber links aswell


02-09-2003, 07:18 PM
on my 414 i've not used any threadlock on any components (except the driveshafts, which are a must) and had no problems for just over a year. My car always gets a compleete strip down every week so i can make sure all the screws are tight and nothing is loosening up.
i suppose you could though, if you want a bulletproof build

02-09-2003, 08:26 PM
your proberly right Tom dude, its just i mustve not screwed it tight enough or something but i had the same screws come loose on me twice, a tiny thread lock and it was fine after that.

Dave I
02-09-2003, 09:21 PM
I put together a lovely new 414 and used threadlock in all the nice new ally. Then coudnt get them back out!! Had to drill some off them out. Have re-assembled it without thread-lock without any problems

02-09-2003, 10:45 PM
a similar thing happened to me

but i didnt use threadlock?!

it was in one of the suspension blocks right, i put a screw is and then bam it was stuck tight couldnt do anything the result was thata had one screw out and in the block a bit of screw left in it so its a perfect useless suspension block! :(

im gonna anodise some silver suspension blocks red hopefully that should get me some goodies.

03-09-2003, 06:18 PM
whats the best way to sort out the battery slots so your cells fit snug and safe?
my job is ... pretty messy :-[, get another deck and try again think ( and ill have a spare ).

the little shimms are actually available to buy now right? :)


03-09-2003, 08:08 PM
i think a tool is avaliable to get that screw thread out. they are used to get broken thread taps out of things, check at you local hardware store, they may know.

how did you mess up the chassis. hope you didn't overdo it with the dremel! someone that comes to out club did that to his 414 chassis and it looked a mess, but he has a new car like every month so he wasent bothered

Dave I
03-09-2003, 08:43 PM
Tan give me the suspension block on Sunday. Our workshop should be able to get it out. They managed all of mine.

03-09-2003, 10:04 PM
your a star

03-09-2003, 10:26 PM
i think a tool is avaliable to get that screw thread out. they are used to get broken thread taps out of things, check at you local hardware store, they may know.

how did you mess up the chassis. hope you didn't overdo it with the dremel! someone that comes to out club did that to his 414 chassis and it looked a mess, but he has a new car like every month so he wasent bothered

Is that Jason...lol?

03-09-2003, 10:32 PM
i didnt mess it up, its just it couldve been so much better. and i thinks my cells are a bit tooooo low in the chassis! like a perfect flush , dont want them getting scratched now ;)

not worth the risk

learning from my mistakes is like sitting a degree... it just dont stop!

John Davie
04-09-2003, 05:08 AM
What cells you running tarnjit ??

04-09-2003, 08:28 AM
Panasonic 3000s ultras, from nick ;). i tried shane gp3300s new generation in there and they just wouldnt fit unless i forced them inbu ive read you can if you shave a bit off the plastic posts.

whyd you ask?

04-09-2003, 09:17 AM
Hey tarnjit how do you know jason?

since i can remeber he has had

3 TRF414wcrs (that he sold to me, my brother and G)
Speedway PAL barracuda (sold to me and bro)
TRF414M2 memorial edition
TC3 FT with IRS extreme conversion (he bought off my brother)
Atlas YM34 Si
Yokomo MR4 TC SSG
Yokomo MR4 SD Black special

and thats only in the last year!

John Davie
04-09-2003, 02:22 PM
Have a look at your GP 3300'S as these are slightly bigger and should not drop down flush with your chassis unless you have really over done it big time with the files.

Best method for holding 3300's in place is the glass fibre tape like alot of 1/12th drivers have to use. Forcing the cells into the plastic battery holders will just cause you to twist the chassis slightly and tweak your car upsetting the handling.

I used this method last sunday at Ashby when using 3300's for the first time and set a new PB of 17/302.90 with a stock motor despite rolling and loosing 2 seconds or so. In the final i sarted 3rd and nearly beat Jimmy Maddison but ended up 2nd by just 0.14 , close or what :o.

04-09-2003, 06:25 PM
blimey john well done!

hmmm this glass fibre tape is the stuff, your actually supposed to use for assembeled cells ( |||||| ) right? like the straps? does it really make such a difference, amazing.

when i buy some 33s ill definetly try some tape, is it expensive? do you mind PM'ing me where i should be able to get some?

im going to start annodising some of my own parts next week, got my chemistry teacher to give me a hand , ill tell you how it came out :)

oh yeah and got some neat TRF stuff its amazing (tools :D)

07-09-2003, 08:58 AM
Need some advice guys.

With the Evo 3 red edition (won't even attempt to type the guys name) what parts would be required to install a ball diff in the front?
Also, does this kit come with one-way shaft bearing?

If you have part numbers to convert to front diff and fixed 4WD that would be great.


07-09-2003, 11:01 AM
Yorkie - you need these for a front diff:

TAMIYA PARTS 9805889 MC4 2mm lock nut
TAMIYA PARTS 9805670 MR6 ball thrust bearing
TAMIYA PARTS 9805669 MB4 1 x 25mm cap screw

07-09-2003, 10:49 PM
Keith A,

Thanks for the reply.
I am suprised Tamiya don't sell a compete ball diff as per the rear diff? Not everybody can run a one-way on their track.

Oh well, I'll see what that little lot adds to the final cost of the kit.


08-09-2003, 11:09 AM
Tamiya WILL be releasing a full diff kit for the EVOIII shortly


08-09-2003, 04:44 PM
Thats wicked , Tamiya are slowly realeaseing more and more things for the evo 3 ive noticed but chances they will start pushing sales of the 414 and evo3 are very unlikely.
i guess they would rather want to sell 1000 tl01s then evo's :'(
but you never know , giveing the evo3 surikarn "the best chassis ever" review in some magazine my friend was telling me, it all sounds good!

John Davie
08-09-2003, 05:43 PM
Tarnjit are you saying you have not read the mag or even the review despite the EVO III S being the main cover pic :o.

08-09-2003, 06:12 PM
John john, you would think i would! but i havent a chance yet. i heard nick done the bodyshell for it aswell. John are you keeping your evo3 S now you got an SD aswell? how do they compare?

I had my first real A final yesterday! belive its been that long !

i finished 4th behind Tim , real good fun. only if i could be as consistant as him.

08-09-2003, 07:09 PM
do any of you know anything about the EVO3 blue conversion yet? i've seen it online for preorder at around £80. I'm guessing it includes the new upper link mounts, suspension blocks, shaft, steering bellcranks, and anything else that could be in blue. It may also include the reinforcing plate for the one-way, to fuly update older kits.

08-09-2003, 07:29 PM
yeah your right about what it include , not sure about the one way ring though. i think it comes with a heat sink, and it would be very nice if they included the blue shock parts :)

more importantly though, their are rumours that a red conversion kit will shortly be following.
pretty good marketing stratagie for tamiya, everyone buys the blue conversion kit on release, then a few months later the red comes out and everyone buys that :)

John Davie
09-09-2003, 04:50 AM
Only used the SD once and that was at Wrexham on sunday for the Torc series. I managed to qual 2nd and finish 2nd and 3rd in the 2 finals to give me 2nd overall.

There is a few points i like better about the Evo III S and there is a few points i like better about the SD so im going to do some more testing before i choose which one i keep for 19turn racing next year.

09-09-2003, 08:34 AM
wicked, well if you are going to get rid of anything for the evo , ill be interested ( at a good price ) ;D