RW Pulleys

[AndyT]

Ok just fitted the rear pulley to my car. Should have had the front but was out of stock at Schumacher >:(.

Can I assume that your not supposed to fit the pulley fence's back on?, cause the diff wont fit back in with them on. I fitted the supplied rings on either side and it's lovely and free. Just gotta get the front one now.

Oh just one other thing, I tried it with just some zx1 lube and it was just too hard, like no lube at all, I put some silicone grease in and it's fine. I thought that the lube was the best way to do it?.

Any thoughts?

Cheers

Andy

[MattW]

The origional fences are no use to you. The only things that you need are in the bag :). That said, some people are still using the centre ring to seperate the belts. Personally i don't bother.

You should always use silicon greese on the balls/plates. You should keep bearing lube (zx1) as far away from the diff balls as possible as it will cause them to slip.

[AndyT]

Do these require a lot more cleaning then due to not having the fences?, I know when I took mine apart there was a lot of crud inside, just wonder how much more there will be now!.

[jason]

The trick is not to use too much grease. When they assemble the diffs in the factory they put in far too much.
Less grease will attract less dirt.

Jason

[AndyT]

what I did was put a thin smear over the holes b4 fitting the male side, then popped the balls in turned it over and put a thin smear over the other side. Should there be any kinda lubricant between the big washer and the diff output?, or keep it dry?. I assume the only part that is supposed to move is the balls themselves, and the ballraces of course.

[MattW]

Personally i put some lube between the washer carrier and the washer. As much as anything it "sticks" it there to make it easier to build!!!

Yeah the inside of the diff does get a little more rubish in with the exposed sides, it isn't a major problem though.

[jason]

Matt is quite right I build mine the same way. There is no slip between the washer and the carrier because of the grip of ally on steel and the property of silicone grease does not effect this.

Jason

[Nemysys]

Hi

I've just bought a s/h mission already fitted with RW Diffs

After a short amount of running, the rear diff became loose. The wheels would freewheel.

Looking at the Mission manual, about the original diffs, the rear diff should have the centre bolt inserted from the left hand side, and the front diff, should have the bolt inserted from the right hand side.

Is this the same for the RW's? My Rear Diff, currently has the bolt inserted from the RHS. I'll swap it round to the LHS.

Thanks

[DA_cookie_monstA]

At a guess, I would say you would need to run the bolts the same way as the standard pulleys.

[MattW]

Yeah fairly sure it should be the same as the outdrives are offset to put the diff in the correct position.

I haven't got a car here any more, so can't check it for you.

[AndyT]

The bolt for the rear is on the right side of the car, the bolt for the front is on the left side.

[MarkB]

I could be wrong but I've seen diffs come undone on Missions at our club. Usually this is when the 1.5 mm grub screw isn't locked tight against the 2mm grub screw that you undor to take it apart. They have to lock together, then the larger one won't move.

And like my team mates a smear of grease/lube behind the diff plate is how I build mine...

Cheers
Mark

[Nemysys]

I thought I had tightened everything before my cars debut race last night, but after about 7 laps, I could see the rear diff was loose again.

So out of desperation, I tightened the diff up as hard as I could. The diff action still worked fine.

Three more races during the evening, no problems at all. however, I think I may strip them and rebuild.

Thanks everyone for your help with this.

I assume the internals of the RW Diffs are the same as in the Schuy manual for standard diffs?

[AndyT]

Yes, the only differences are there are no fences, and the diff balls are placed differently to the standard diff.

[Nemysys]

I bought the car second hand with the RW diffs installed.

If there is no difference internally to the standard shuy ones, what is the benefit of the uograde?

Thanks

[AndyT]

The actual RW pulley wheel is precision machined. The standard shuey one is just molded plastic and not very accurate.

[colin_jackson]

the RW pulley as andy said is machined not moulded, the standered pulley is just slightly oval ( not big enough to notice at club level ) and also compared to the RW pulley the teeth on the pulley are slightly larger so produces a bit more drag.

the pulleys for the Mi2 are very good from standered and there shouldnt be any need to run RW ones

colin