Freeing Mission Drivetrain [Archive]

AndyT

26-01-2004, 09:22 PM

I'm in the process if trying to free up the drivetrain on my mission. It seems really tight and i'm not sure what I can do to free it. The diffs were quite gritty when I got them, i ran them for a few races but they didnt get any better so I stripped em and got most of the carp out, and rebuilt em a little looser, and they seem better, still not that smooth though!. Are there any of magic tips I could use to get this running free?. Pushing it along without the pinion connected it rolls for about 2 secs then stops, this is on carpet at home btw.

Any suggestions welcome :)

Cheers
Andy

Rain

26-01-2004, 09:54 PM

MattW

26-01-2004, 10:21 PM

Altering diff tension will make absolutely no difference to transmission efficiency.

The only way to make a big difference to how Free the drivetrain is to replace both diff pullies with the RW machined ones. They are available from any Schumacher dealer.

Mark McCulloch

26-01-2004, 11:10 PM

I've just finished building my mission S1 and the drive train on it is very free, which is unusual for a new car. I found before that after a few race meetings a new car would get better once everything wears in, but not with the mission. I took tips from other people on this forum and drivers of the mission and like Matt has said replaced the diff pulley's straight away with the RW parts, i also have front and rear grey (stock) belts on the car.

Hope this helps
Mark

colin_jackson

26-01-2004, 11:12 PM

Also have a similar problem to this on my brothers Mission S1. Main belt is nice and loose, but no slipping. Front diff seems nice, but the rear diff is very tight.

I can free it off by loosening up the diff a long way, then I can turn the pulley (with difficulty) while holding both drive cups still. This does free it up a tad, but then it seems to have a lot less drive to the rear.

This the way to go, or am I missing something important?

Cheers

Ian

as matt has said altering diff tension will not make any difference to the free-nes of your car. try the RW pulleys as these make a lot of difference. also have you got a grey front belt, if not i found this made quite a difference as it is more flexable than the black belt. one last thing have you tried blasting your bearings yet? this will also make a big difference!

colin

Matt Bridge

26-01-2004, 11:57 PM

Nice Giff Colon, Nick it of my website !!!

M

AndyT

27-01-2004, 08:13 AM

I think i'll order the RW pulleys then. I have a grey belt on the front and a black on the back. Should I replace the rear belt with a grey?

27-01-2004, 08:44 AM

Try blasting the bearings out, that makes a lot of difference. Run grey stock belts on both front and back...should make it a bit smoother (with the RW pullies)

AndyT

27-01-2004, 09:07 AM

I've read up on the procedures to do it, but not detailed, e.g do I need to take the shields off,how do they come off etc.. I looked at mine yesterday as I was cleaning the layshaft pulleys etc.., their just sealed, no obvious way to get the plastic outer bit off.

MattW

27-01-2004, 09:59 AM

Just blast through them. I never take the shields off to clean, as i usually damage them taking them off.

Only use the grey rear belt if you are running stock. The grey front is ok (usually) with mod or stock, but the grey rear is stock only.

AndyT

27-01-2004, 11:57 AM

Could you clarify the 'just blast em through' bit please lol. What do you blast em with? .

I only run 27t stock at the moment as i'm only a newbie. I've ordered a belt and the rw pulleys from shumacher so hopefully i'll get them tommorrow.

colin_jackson

27-01-2004, 12:34 PM

if you havent got a bearing blaster, then simperly hold the bearing in a pair of snipe nose pliers and spray it with moter spray, or brake and clutch cleaner!!, after this use a lite oil on the bearing to relube it (trinity oil is good). or spray the bearing with WD 40, this also works.

colin

Rain

27-01-2004, 12:34 PM

Running grey front belt and black rear. Just running everything as it came out of the box basically.

Will look into the RW pulleys though, thanks!

Cheers

Ian

27-01-2004, 03:42 PM

All you need to do is hold them (one at a time) inbeetween your finger and thumb and blast them out with motor spray or clutch cleaner etc.

fiisch

27-01-2004, 04:50 PM

What is a bearing blaster? I have done nothing to my Mission - one meeting - and it seems pretty free.

colin_jackson

27-01-2004, 04:58 PM

a bearing blaster is;

http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/tools/hires/8117.htm

colin

27-01-2004, 05:07 PM

Bearings and the tention of the belt make the biggest difference.

fiisch

27-01-2004, 05:37 PM

a bearing blaster is;

http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/tools/hires/8117.htm

colin

Thankyou..... my next goodie ;D

27-01-2004, 06:28 PM

a bearing blaster is;

http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/tools/hires/8117.htm
How much did they pay you to put that? :P

colin_jackson

27-01-2004, 06:51 PM

ay????? ???

AndyT

27-01-2004, 07:04 PM

Ok heres an update. The car sounded like it was binding at the rear. So I stripped it all down, cleaned and re-lubed the bearings, still binding. Checked all other bindings to do with transmission, all running good. Then checked the belt tensioner lol, it's now all the way at the bottom and running quite free. Doh!. I've got my rw pulleys coming so that should help a bit, and I've discovered that the main 86-tooth pulley is warped a little and causing excess noise when running, I can hear it as it turns. I know I can replace that with some alloy bar thing and a descent pulley but cant remember what they are called!. Any ideas?

27-01-2004, 07:21 PM

replace that with some alloy bar thing and a descent pulley but cant remember what they are called!. Any ideas?
RW......again! lol. they are much more rigid than the schumacher ones, i prefer them.

27-01-2004, 07:22 PM

ay?????
its called advertising!!!

MattW

27-01-2004, 07:27 PM

Bearing in mind who's moderator round here.......................... ::) ??? 8)

There is nothing wrong with that as it is to a manufactures site that does not sell direct (as far as i can see).

27-01-2004, 07:33 PM

.....fair enough!

AndyT

27-01-2004, 08:39 PM

replace that with some alloy bar thing and a descent pulley but cant remember what they are called!. Any ideas?
RW......again! lol. they are much more rigid than the schumacher ones, i prefer them.

What are they called though? and where can I get em from? cheers

27-01-2004, 08:41 PM

I can remember on the packet that it has RW on it, cant remember who made it, carlson i think....dont think so tho, might be. Some one on here will definatly know!

colin_jackson

27-01-2004, 08:54 PM

thanks matt,

i only gave the link as, as far as i know RPM are the only people to produce a bearing blaster and i used it only as an example to answer fiisch question.

colin

AndyT

27-01-2004, 08:58 PM

Haha well whatda know. Just looking at the manual, and what do I see on the back page, but a CNC machined gear adaptor, purple alloy too 8). Says it's for schumacher and kimb? spurs, part no. is U2252. I assume this is the right one?

edit - £8.50 !, not too bad I guess.

MattW

27-01-2004, 10:02 PM

yep, that's the gear adaptor. It allows you to use virtually any spur gear on the market. Many people use RW machined spur gears. These are not available from Schumacher, but are only packaged by RW. Many model shops stock/sell them though.

AndyT

27-01-2004, 10:06 PM

Ok nice one!, shame I just done an order for Shumacher :(.

scoyle

27-01-2004, 10:12 PM

I too am on a mission (get it) to free the drivetrain on my car... I have rebuilt the diffs with RW gears and everything feels quite free.

I think I may have loosened the front diff a bit much though. If I hold the spur and the left front wheel should I be able to turn the right front wheel (and hould it be quite difficult to turn?)

Thanks

MattW

27-01-2004, 10:18 PM

Personally i wouldn't want to be able to turn it all as it means the diff may slip under load

scoyle

27-01-2004, 10:30 PM

Personally i wouldn't want to be able to turn it all as it means the diff may slip under load

That's what I thought.. of to tighten it a bit.

28-01-2004, 08:35 AM

Missions arnt realy "free" cars, you can get them realy smooth and just a little bit free, no were near as free as some of the tc3's i have seen! But at the end of the day it doesnt realy matter, as long as the motor drives the wheels as fast as it can then your doing some thing rite.

AndyT

28-01-2004, 08:43 AM

But the free'er the better, puts less strain on all the components, especially the motor. My car was only rolling for 2 secs b4 I sorted it, now it's like 5 secs. Thats an awful lot of lost drag.

Just back on the spur subject, does anyone know where I can get this adaptor on-line?, the RW one. I can get the schumacher one direct from themselves, but cant find the RW one anywhere. Also does RW have a website?

28-01-2004, 08:46 AM

As long as the car is pretty free i am happy, i have just got a losi and its about the same as my mission...but MUCH faster and easyer to drive ;D

Im shure I have seen the RW website but not shure on the address... look on www.brca.org and then click on links, it should be on there if they have one.

MattW

28-01-2004, 11:05 AM

Get the Schumacher gear adaptor, you already have the part number. Then get RW spur gears (if that's what you want).

scoyle

28-01-2004, 01:12 PM

I tightened my front diff up again... but now when I hold the spur gear, front left wheel and turn the front right it is tighter but the belt skips? This does not seem to happen on my other car (I have not put the top deck back on again yet if this makes a difference)?

Cheers

adyb

28-01-2004, 02:37 PM

You need to put the top deck back on to get the tension correct on the belt, in general I do what the manual says to set the diff up, pretty good 'tighten up fully then back of half a turn' :)

Rain

28-01-2004, 07:10 PM

As long as the car is pretty free i am happy, i have just got a losi and its about the same as my mission...but MUCH faster and easyer to drive ;D

Got any tips for setting up a XXX-S then? I was running one for months, and it was horrible. Was tail happy, I could hardly go around a corner without it spinning out, no matter what I did. Was so hard to gear right I gave up in the end and bought a Mission, because my brothers ran so well.

Still haven't run the Mission, first meeting is on the 22nd of Feb, so will see how it goes then. I really don't want to buckle and get an X-Ray the same as the rest of the guys there though. They are too pricey, apart from anything else. :)

Cheers

Ian

28-01-2004, 07:42 PM

I got 3deg toe in blocks, run purple springs on back (second hole in) white on the front (middle hole) 2deg camber all round, geared it the same as my mission (2gears lower i think) and it is spot on! i love the way it drives.

Rain

28-01-2004, 08:02 PM

I still have the XXX-S, I am going to run it again at some point, I just needed a break from it. My brother seemed unable to break his Mission, whereas my Losi was breaking left right and centre :). I will run the Mission for a while, during that time I will strip down and rebuild the losi, see if I can find anything obviously wrong with it I think. I bought the nice blue alloy hubs for it and everything!

Cheers

Ian

28-01-2004, 08:21 PM

You have to use it then!!! I used to break my mission near enough every race meeting i went to in a year and a halfs racing i have gone through the following
about 25wishbones (upper, lower)
7drive shafts
20 hubs
10 spur gears
2 C/F chassis
shock tower
4 wishbone blocks
And loadssssss more lol ::)
, i have had the losi about 2weeks and have broken.....a belt (not my fault, wasnt racing at the time) 2 spur gears and 3 wishbones. . . . . every car i have i seem to break easy, im not the best driver out there but i aint the worst either, what makes me mad is the people who cant drive to save there lives and they put a 12t in there can and crash at every corner without breaking a thing!

colin_jackson

28-01-2004, 10:03 PM

Matt Bridge

28-01-2004, 10:20 PM

too right Colin and looks like the Losi above will end up the same way with that setup !! lol lol

Rain

28-01-2004, 11:27 PM

Heh, I know the feeling. My poor Losi used to get hammered. In one race, someone decided to avoid navigating the chicane and just rammed one of the wooden trackside barriers right out into the middle of my car, ripped the rear hub to shreds before I had time to react. Thats when I decided to replace all of them with alloy ones! :)

These things happen though, I just hope the mission stands up to a battering. First time I powered the mission up, I decided to check the steering alignment first, so steered left and right to see how quick it reacted. Unfortunately, I was testing it on a table, and had the channels the wrong way around. Flew off the table, bounced of the TV screen and survived it! Whoops....

As long as there aren't any TV's in the middle of the race track I should be fine though!

Cheers

Ian

AndyT

29-01-2004, 08:15 AM

TBH, being a newbie, my mission has had a lot of stick. It's been flipped, rolled, driven into a door at full pelt, and various other funny crashes. I've not needed to replace one thing yet!. They are tough as old boots.

Oh and p.s nice thread hijack ;)

Rain

29-01-2004, 12:19 PM

Sorry about that! Wasn't intentional. I am always going off on a tangent. And hairpins, chicanes and even a straight or two. ;D

Cheers

Ian

AndyT

29-01-2004, 07:06 PM

Right then, if the Losi drivers have finished I'll give you an update ;D :P ;D.

I got the Gear adaptor and a Kimb gear. Got it fitted last night, and well unless i've done something wrong i'm not impressed!. It's less smooth than the standard shumacher one, and it's a lot louder. Should this be right?, cant see how it can be. Any ideas?

scoyle

29-01-2004, 07:13 PM

I got the Gear adaptor and a Kimb gear. Got it fitted last night, and well unless i've done something wrong i'm not impressed!. It's less smooth than the standard shumacher one, and it's a lot louder. Should this be right?, cant see how it can be. Any ideas?

Are you sure the gear adapter isn't hitting the chassis as it spins? The main idea of the Kimb gear is that it is machined and so is flat (unlike the Schumacher one which is moulded and is like a buckled wheel!!)

29-01-2004, 07:21 PM

I aint being big headed hear but, im not a crappy driver, i admit i make a fair amount of mistakes in a race, but was near enough half the time i got hit the car would break (most of the time more than one part)

MattW

29-01-2004, 07:27 PM

scoyle

29-01-2004, 07:38 PM

The Kimbrough gears aren't machined. They are moulded just like the Schumacher ones.

:-[ Oops I was thinking of the RW ones...

29-01-2004, 07:42 PM

I was up the model shop today, had some RW spurs in stock, they just have rc stuff on them, im shure it had a centre point sticker on it so helger make it. (think)

MattW

29-01-2004, 07:55 PM

I was up the model shop today, had some RW spurs in stock, they just have rc stuff on them, im sure it had a centre point sticker on it so helger make it. (think)

What??????????

RW make gears, they are sold in their own packaging. Centre Point also buy them from RW and package them as "RC Stuff". RW Gears are machined Acetal (Nylon).

Kimbrough also make gears, they are in theory available in their own packaging, but you don't tend to see them like that any more. CML buy them in and package them as Fastrax, as do Helgar - Trickbits. Centre point also used to package Kimbrough gears as RC Stuff, but not sure if they do any more as they now have RW. Kimbrough gears are moulded, but they are still good gears.

29-01-2004, 07:58 PM

(think)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
If you look closely i said THINK!!! im just trying to help out! go and moan at some one else!

AndyT

29-01-2004, 08:35 PM

Andy, just check the adaptor isn't catching on the top deck. I understand this can be a problem. If so you'll need to take a little material off of either adaptor or top deck.

The Kimbrough gears aren't machined. They are moulded just like the Schumacher ones.

Andy - could you mod your signiture down to one line please. cheers.

I took the spur gear out, and it's running fine, not catching on anything. The Kimb gear seems to be running nice and straight (far straighter than the shumacher one) so all I can think is it's either the spur, or the motor. How close should the spur be meshed to the kimb gear?.

Sig edit done Boss ;)

29-01-2004, 10:47 PM

should be meshed the same as you mesh any spur gear.

AndyT

30-01-2004, 07:19 AM

Yes I kinda figured that ;), but How tight up against each other should they be?. Normally I get it up tight again one and other, and then back the motor off a touch.

30-01-2004, 08:15 AM

Yeah thats about rite, just mesh it, and then check that you have a little bit of play in the spur gear.

Rain

30-01-2004, 12:27 PM

I seem to remember a long, long time ago, that I read somewhere that if you use a sheet of paper as a spacer, then remove it once the motor is tightened into position, that that should give about the right amount of play.

Never tried it myself though.

Cheers

Ian

30-01-2004, 05:00 PM

I read that not to long ago, tried it and its not worth the bother! easyer by eye.

scoyle

30-01-2004, 07:16 PM

Yes I kinda figured that ;), but How tight up against each other should they be?. Normally I get it up tight again one and other, and then back the motor off a touch.

That's exactly what I do - I read somewhere that you should be able to roll a piece of paper between them. But just don't make it too tight or too loose ;)

AndyT

30-01-2004, 07:23 PM

Does anyone know if anyone makes alloy versions of it? I mean you always see alloy/titanium spurs, but not the main gear. (sorry dont know the proper term for it, but the big one, u know).

scoyle

30-01-2004, 08:47 PM

Does anyone know if anyone makes alloy versions of it? I mean you always see alloy/titanium spurs, but not the main gear. (sorry dont know the proper term for it, but the big one, u know).

You have them the wrong way round - it's alloy pinions. The big one is the spur gear. I've never heard of an alloy spur gear - check out the RW one's... most of the good racers round here seem to use them - that's why I bought one :D

AndyT

30-01-2004, 09:28 PM

Oh yes lol, makes sense now!

31-01-2004, 12:10 AM

Alloy pinion!!! That would be stupid, alloy pinion would lose the teeth easy! its not strong enough

AndyT

31-01-2004, 08:35 AM

Try, ok why not a titanium pinion (already made) with a titanium spur?

colin_jackson

31-01-2004, 09:37 AM

Alloy pinion!!! That would be stupid, alloy pinion would lose the teeth easy! its not strong enough

no they wouldnt!!! you can get different types of alloy (hard and soft) an alloy pinion will be light wait and there for offer less rotating mass on the transmission of your car!! (ie - better acceleration).

i have ran them and they have been fine!

andy, im not quite sure about running a titanium spur and pinion, i think because the two materials are the same they may cause each other to whare, but im not sure ;)

colin

31-01-2004, 10:43 AM

Na mate!!! The weight of a pinion is virtualy nothin! so saving 1gram wouldnt make any difference, your car has to be a sertain weight any way at most racing clubs so why save weight on a pinion if you will only end up having to put another 5g weight on your car to make it legal....titanium spur and pinion is not a good idea, well just the titanium spur isnt a good idea as they would either wear, or the heat from the motor will be transfered from the pinion to the spur...there is no point of a titanium spur, i think the RW, schumacher etc would be lighter any way!

Luke Hobson

31-01-2004, 05:35 PM

the wieght of a pinion DOES make a difference.
if it didn't then why would companies spend all that time on making the lightest and strongest possible? ???

luke

fiisch

31-01-2004, 05:49 PM

the wieght of a pinion DOES make a difference.
if it didn't then why would companies spend all that time on making the lightest and strongest possible? ???

luke

So they can release something small and purple and sell it at enormous profit....

marcoski

31-01-2004, 05:58 PM

Fiisch - you beat me to it. LOL. They make them because people are gullible enough to buy them. Your motor is not going to notice the difference in pinion weight and neither are you!

Were the spur to be made of metal too, you would need some sort of oil lubrication system, otherwise the wear rate would be alarming! The noise would be tremendous too. Actually when you have a hard material running against a soft one, its the hard one that wears most. The advantage of a plastic spur is that there is no requirement for lubrication, and the wear rates are acceptable too. You should spend more time ensuring that the spur runs dead true with no runout whatsoever, this is the biggest cause of wear and noisy running as the perfect mesh with the pinion cannot be obtained.

rice98w

31-01-2004, 06:03 PM

the reason i make my car as light as possible, by buying leightweight parts, pinions, electronics, is so i can put the weight where i want it! i find it makes quite a difference :)

the plastic, as marcus explained is self-lubricating, a metal spur would need lube from somewhere, messy! :-

31-01-2004, 06:34 PM

Thank you Marcus!!!! ;D

Joshua

31-01-2004, 10:38 PM

If you remove the drive belts It becomes really smooth then...lol.
Seriously though what works for me is if you undo the layshaft mount screws about half a turn(top and bottom) so that the mounts can move slightly. If you are using the plastic ones then this is not a problem but if you are using the alloy ones then remember to use a bit of threadlock or you will lose the screws, and everything they were holding in place.

Dave P.

01-02-2004, 10:14 AM

I cut larger holes in the top deck where the layshaft mounts go, also on the chassis....this means you can move them forword or back slightly to ajust the tension of the rear belt. Works well considering its only a 5min job!

MattW

01-02-2004, 05:10 PM

I have seen that done before. Personally i wouldn't want to do it, as there is always the possiblity of it moving, and hence potentially damaging pully, belt, and or spur gear.

There shouldn't be any need to go to such an extreme, it is possible to get the car very free without doing that.

01-02-2004, 05:56 PM

Well, have to do some thing on weekends when not racing ::)

AndyT

01-02-2004, 10:06 PM

Well the car was nice and free at todays meets. Just a shame that I was lacking sooo much power. Not sure why yet, I have to investigate.

01-02-2004, 10:22 PM

Is the motor or cells in bad condition?

AndyT

01-02-2004, 10:39 PM

Motor I think, the cells are lasting fine. I using some shumacher brushes that were recommended but I think they are carp. I'm ordering some 4499's and a pair of putnams to try. I had the motor lathed last week, but the guy who did it has gone away for a few weeks. I have a comm stick and that seems to work quite well, brings the comm up nice and shiny. I clean the motor well b4 racing and lube the bushings etc.. I thought it might be gearing but its about the same as other guys. So short answer is not sure lol. I've ordered some smaller pinions, I even swapped out the 20t with the 17t as I thought I wasnt getting enough accelleration, but all that happened is I ran outta puff on the long curve and got overtook. Anyhoo it's all part of the learning curve eh!.

01-02-2004, 10:55 PM

Lathed? I take it you mean skimmed? You could keep your motor in the best condition but if its a "bad" one then theres nothing you can do about it, my motor is very good, i used to keep it in tip top condition all the time, but then i broke my diamond tip :'( and thought sod it and i havent even cleaned it in about 4weeks and its flying! must be a bit of good luck aye :o

AndyT

01-02-2004, 10:58 PM

Well I dunno if its bad, need someone to dyno it I guess to find that out. Maybe i'll clean it up and take it back to the shop for them to check out.

Oh on a side subject, i've ordered some alloy front hubs, as the placky ones were doing my nut in. I assume the pivot ball still screws in, but how tight is it?, any chance it'll unscrew (like mine did today resulting in a nice crash :( )

marcoski

01-02-2004, 11:00 PM

Andy, use a spot of thread lock and tighten "normally", you don't want to strip the ally threads, which will be easy to do!

MattW

01-02-2004, 11:24 PM

No it isn't a screw. You get a different bottom stud that clamps into position with a grub screw.

AndyT

02-02-2004, 07:39 AM

Is it a lot better than the plastic screw-in version?

02-02-2004, 08:24 AM

Yes it is! They are muche easyer to take off, you get 2 kinds of king pin in the packet, i use the short ones. The main reason i got them is because i kept doing the thread in on tha plastic ones!

AndyT

02-02-2004, 08:41 AM

Ah ok cool. Sounds like they should have used these as standard. The rears are no problem as the hub doesnt move alot, but the fronts are just a terrible design.

MattW

02-02-2004, 04:13 PM

Yes they are very good. There is one drawback though. You are l imited to the in-line hole for the top ball joint. Fine if that's what you want to run, but not so if you usually use the off set position.

02-02-2004, 07:32 PM

I find that that hole is perfect! its kinda inbetween the 2holes that are on the plastic ones.

MattW

02-02-2004, 07:35 PM

No, it's the same as the outer hole on the plastic. At least it should be.

colin_jackson

02-02-2004, 07:38 PM

yes the top hole on the alloy hub is the same as the outer one on the plastic hubs (standard). the two holes have different handerling characteristics.

colin

02-02-2004, 08:35 PM

If you think about it it shouldnt realy change any thing, if you run the same amount of camber it should be the same? I dont get how it could change some thing

colin_jackson

02-02-2004, 09:06 PM

if you run with an inline kingpin (outer hole on std hub or hole on alloy hub) then this will give an aggressive steering reponse, compared to running the out of line hole which offers a softer initial steering response.

colin

02-02-2004, 09:11 PM

Are you talking about the holes that the balljoing fits in for the stearing turnbuckles? Or the top wishbone? I know about the turnbuckle posision responses, i havent tried it but....with the alloy ones you could run either of the holes, just put the "stop" on to the bottom of a ball joint ;D

colin_jackson

02-02-2004, 09:40 PM

no im talking about the holes on top of the hubs, if you change this on the front hubs it gives a different steering response (also explained in your manual)

colin

AndyT

02-02-2004, 10:12 PM

colin_jackson

03-02-2004, 08:05 AM

i have had this before, when my belt fell of of the tensioner. the belt then caught on the side of it as it ran, this was obvious due to the amount of belt dust that it generated :P

if this anything like your problem?

colin

03-02-2004, 08:32 AM

The only damage i have done to a belt without gettig a stone or anything caught in it is when the belt jumps off the belt tentioner and gets caught underneigh.

Luke Hobson

03-02-2004, 11:57 AM

since i had my mission i have broken 3 belts,
first one was a stone
second a head on impact
and third i broke it pulling away with a 10t mod
all belts were grey

luke

03-02-2004, 04:21 PM

I have had a couple of stones caught in the belt, but not enough damage to have to replace it. . . I just run the belts untill they litteraly fall off the car.

AndyT

04-02-2004, 11:16 PM

Just got back from racing, and I have to say i'm chuffed to bits. The car was really on-song tonight, made the A final and came 3rd. 1st time i've ever used foams as well, and they were just fantastic, dont know why more clubs dont use them.

05-02-2004, 08:04 AM

Foams handle a lot better than rubbers! I think most people use them so there is no chance of them "chunking" and ruining the tyres.

AndyT

05-02-2004, 08:29 AM

Yeah I know they do!, everyone else was using foams so I wasnt at an advantage. I chunked one of my rears, but it made no difference tbh.

Mark Morris

07-02-2004, 04:30 PM

It depends how much of the tyre you "chunk" . . .if it is a little bit then it will make no difference but if it is big then the car will slide out!

AndyT

09-02-2004, 09:24 PM

I was starting to clean the car tonight, and have discovered 2 grooves in the top (flat side) of the long belt. Thing is I'll be damned if I can find whats causing it!. the only thing thats changed is - lowered the tensioner, installed the 17t pulley (temp) and fitted the schumacher pulley adaptor with a kimb pulley. I've got a new belt coming so thats not a problem but I just cant see whats causing it!. Anyone had this before? or any ideas?

Found the answer to this puzzling problem!. I was dismantling the front suspension tonight to fit my new alloy hubs. I discovered under the front shock tower mount a small bit of plastic, obviously let over from the moulding process. This is what was causing the groove. I think the reason this has only just started is cause I released all my belt tension. I've just checked the rear too and that had the same bit of plastic on. Cut em off now with a knife :).

p.s the alloy hubs are soooo nice, and soo easy to fit. Just ordered another set for the rear, oh and some purple alloy hexs to match, oh and some alloy batt posts as they were only 3.99 ;D. Thats it now, no more cash to spend on hop-ups I promise ;). While rebuilding I decided to fit new wishbones so the new pivot balls fitted properly, discovered my right pivot pin was bent :(. I've got a feeling the upper ones are bent too as the arm is quite stiff :(. Should be fun getting it off, might have to cut em off and fit new upper arms too :(. Oh well, thats another thing on the list titanium pins ;D

Hmm those alloy diff mounts are nice ;D.

Rain

10-02-2004, 01:33 PM

Andy, did you get the alloy bits and bobs off of the net? If so, could you PM me with details of where from please?

Cheers

Ian

colin_jackson

10-02-2004, 04:41 PM

you can buy the alloy bits direct from schumacher ;)

www.racing-cars.com

or go to your local schumacher stockist.

colin

AndyT

14-02-2004, 07:56 PM

Hmm well the upper pins weren't bent. However changing the pins was a right pain. They simply wouldnt go in. In the end I got a 3.3mm drill bit and opened out the holes in the arm. Now they fit a treat nice and free action and no movement from opening them out. Just waiting for my front rw pulley (no-one has any :(), and gonna get the diff mounts for my b'day ;D. The wife thinks that if I was out racing more then I wouldnt be sitting here thinking of things to buy for my 'toy' as she puts it grrr >:( ;D.