Yokomo SD Set-Up for Carpet and Tarmac???

[stevieteee]

Hello Peeps,

Anyone out there with a good basic set-up for running an SD indoor on carpet on foams and 1 for outdoor on tarmac on foams and rubber? Running in stock class(27T)

Any help/advice greatly appreciated!

Cheers
Steve

[al]

try the cml website-

cheers

AL ;D ;D ;D

[scott taylor]

i used the standard that works really well but for foams i would go harder on the oil though

scott

[stevieteee]

Hello,

Tried the CML website, ok for out door set-ups but not v.good for indoor :(

The std set-up seems to wallow a bit too much, My car was an import so didn't come with a set-up guide like I think the UK spec cars have, so mine might be well off!

Can anyone tell me or PM me the std UK SD set-up?

Cheers
Steve

[Hugh]

Hello
I race on tarmac that is not very smooth and is very dusty. Does anyone have any idea as how to stop the rear end spinning out on a SD when accelerating out of corners in dry and wet conditions?

I tried the CML set ups but they did not work.

I tried making the rear soft and then hard then tried making the front soft and then hard in the shock positions, springs and sway bars but leaving the shock oil at 450 that was in the kit. I am using Schumacher mini pins blue 25mm with soft rubber in the rear and front in the dry conditions. I use Schumacher pits 24mm with the foam it came with, in the wet conditions.

Has anyone got any suggestions for a good set up??

Thanks

Hugh.

[AzNDRAGster]

Run 3.5 deg. of toe in, that'll help. 3 on the pivot mount and .5 on the hub.

[sosidge]

Hi Hugh - are you still running the standard shock lengths? If so , I would go longer (I run 63mm from, 62 rear), this lets you run more droop which can create a bit more grip on a slippy, bumpy surface.

Also consider putting the front wishbones in the alternative lower position on the caster blocks, this tames the steering a bit, and can help stabilise the back end under power.

PS your dry tyre choice is a bit unusual - do the other people at your track make that work?

[Hugh]

Hi AzDRAGster
I have the 3 deg on the rear but how do you get 0.5 deg on the hub?

Hi sosidge
On my last run I had 62mm front and 62mm rear on the short arm that said in the kit manual and 2mm on the adjusting nut on the shock front and rear. I have Yokomo green springs on the front and yellow on the rear. The shock position on the front is on the kit setting the rear is on the higher hole on the shock tower on the lower suspension arm it is the same as the front and 4mm droop on the front and rear.
The front hub carrier is set to the kit setting same with the rear. The lower suspension arm position are looking at the car from the rear is 1mm then 3mm on the rear lower suspension on the front 1mm then 3mm this moved the tire towards the back of the car. The camber I had –2 on the rear and –1 on the front with +1 toe on the front.

How do you alternate the wishbones on the front to a lower position on the caster block?

The tyre choice is a bit unusual because I found that it is too dusty for slicks and the tarmac is too worn out for them. The other people use the Schumacher mini pins blue but they will not tell me what rubber or foam they are running in the tyres and the track is short and very twisty and changes each week.

[sosidge]

Is the droop measurement you give on the gauge? or is it "real"? Either way, it seems like droop/shock length isn't the problem.

The way you have the rear end set up is a bit odd. Have you tried putting it back in the kit setting holes? I know it's a stiffer rate, but a stiffer rear can help stabilise the car.

To run the wishones in the lower holes in the c-hub, you basically put the pin that holds the wishbone onto the c-hub through the lower hole.

You then need to do a few other things to balance the settings. First, put the inner mounting for the camber link up one hole on the shock tower. Second, get a 2mm spacer and bolt that under the inner mounting for the steering link to stop bumpsteer.

Oh, and another thing to look out for is chassis tweak - if the car spins out more readily turning one way than the other, the chassis plates may be out of line, giving the car a permanent bend or tweak.

[Hugh]

The droop measurement is off a hudy gauge and I forgot to say the ride height is 3mm at the front and 3.5 at the rear at the end the race

Ok I will try the kit setting on the rear for Saturday

The 2mm spacer, put it on the steering link ball cup and leave the king pin collars where they are ?

I found that the chassis has a tweak and keep trying to de-tweak the car but with no effect and I found that the right side (looking down on the car from the front i.e. driver side) is higher than the left side, the rear is ok by my MIP tweak station.

[sosidge]

Yeah, leave the kingpin spacers as they are.

It's the inboard steering link ball (on the steering cranks) that needs the spacer.

Your ride height is very low for a bumpy surface - are you sure you're not bottoming out? This will make the car lose grip.

Re tweak - get rid of the centre stiffener, slacken off all the chassis screws, get it on a flat surface, and retighten in a star pattern. Should sort it.

[Hugh]

Yes the ride height was at 5mm in the front and 5.5mm in the rear but at the end of the race when I looked at it, it had lost 2mm on each shock, I do not know how.

What would be the best ride height to have on a bumpy tarmac surface?

The tweak, I got rid of the centre stiffener a long time ago and I did what you said but it is still there.

Is there a way round this problem or is it get a new chassis?

I will try the settings you gave this Saturday if the racing is not cancelled because of bad weather.

[cobra81li200]

Hi AzDRAGster
I have the 3 deg on the rear but how do you get 0.5 deg on the hub?


Yokomo released rear hubs including 0.5° and 1° outboard toe in.

[sosidge]

I don't know how you can lose 2mm ride height in a single race, either the springs weren't seated properly on the shocks, or you managed to wear the tyres from fresh to bald in one race/meeting.

Ride heigh depends on how bumpy the track is, you should be able to tell if the car is bottoming out from the noises it makes and whether it gets caught up any where on the track. 6mm might be better. Or try a little bits of tape on the bottom of the chassis and see how quickly they get worn down.

Tweak is a sticky issue.

After much fiddling I have what I would rate as a tweak-free car. There were times in the past when the car was almost undriveable through tweak.

Others believe the car cannot be de-tweaked, and there are expensive chassis out there that claim to stop this.

I think I'll put my own guide to SD tweak on my website sometime soon.

[sosidge]

I've just written up a guide to removing the tweak on the SD (plus a few piccies) - www.sosidge.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/index-page46.html

[Hugh]

HELP !!!!!!!!!!!!! sosidge i have 0mm ride height on the front the shock is 63mm long
where have i have i gone wrong and what sawy bar should i use?

this is the setting at the moment

droop on the front is 7mm

droop on the rear is 5mm

front ride height is 0mm

rear ride height is 5.5mm

front camber is 0.5

rear camber is 2.0

please help quick, raceing on saturday !!!!

Thanyou

Hugh

[sosidge]

I have NO idea how you've ended up with no front ride height.

If you're still using the standard suspension components (shocks, Yokomo springs, shock mounts, mounting positions) you should be able to get at least 5mm ride height.

Unless you've done something odd with the droop screws, cranked them down too much.

Try and link to a pic of the front of your car, or email me one.

[Hugh]

I have email a pic of the front hope to hear from you soon

[AzNDRAGster]

Hmm, drop on front 7mm? Did you try using the droop screws on the A arms?

[Hugh]

Well the results are in for the set up sosidge gave me. Well on a wet racetrack that is not very smooth and is very dusty. The set up was

On the front

Camber) –2
Toe angle) +1
Shock spacer) 1mm
Droop height) 3mm
Shock body is the kit ones
Shock end is the long set
Spring) yokomo green
Shock oil) 450-kit shock oil
Piston) number 3
Upper camber link is on the heights hole on the hub carrier and moved up one on the shock tower and using the lower hole on the c-hub. The shock positions is kit settings and with a 2mm spacer on the steering cranks and the lower suspension arm were moved nearer to the back

On the rear

Camber) –2
Toe angle) 3 deg
Shock spacer) 3
Droop height) 5mm
Shock body is the kit ones
Shock end is the short set
Spring) yokomo yellow
Shock oil) 450-kit shock oil
Piston) number 3
Upper camber link is kit settings and the same on the shock tower and the shock positions is kit settings and the lower suspension arm were moved nearer to the back

Using Schumacher pits the SD was very easy to drive at my track and the rear did not spin out when accelerating out of the corners. But this was in the wet the real test will be the a dry track

Thanks to all that helped with this :)

Hugh


P.S. the chassis tweak now seems to be under control as well.

[sosidge]

So a partial success then! Glad I could help.

[A Gower]

wud copying a setup from a tc3 including associated springs work on the sd? includong toe and camber, castor and everything else??

thanks

[sosidge]

Not really, it would be a rough guide, but the cars are different and different adjustments will have a different degree of effect, the cars won't handle the same with the same settings.

[Hugh]

Well the results are in for the set up I used in the wet. Today the racetrack was cold and dry that is not very smooth and is very very dusty. The set up was

On the front

Camber) –2
Toe angle) +1
Shock spacer) 1mm
Droop height) 3mm
Shock body is the kit ones
Shock end is the long set
Spring) yokomo green
Shock oil) 40 Team Schumacher Racing shock oil
Piston) number 3
Anti-Roll bar) kit one silver
Ride height) 6mm
Upper camber link is on the heights hole on the hub carrier and moved up one on the shock tower and using the lower hole on the c-hub. The shock positions is kit settings and with a 2mm spacer on the steering cranks and the lower suspension arm were moved nearer to the back

On the rear

Camber) –2
Toe angle) 3 deg
Shock spacer) 2mm
Droop height) 5mm
Shock body is the kit ones
Shock end is the short set
Spring) yokomo yellow
Shock oil) 40 Team Schumacher Racing shock oil
Piston) number 3
Anti-Roll bar) the thin back one
Ride height) 6.5mm
Upper camber link is kit settings and the same on the shock tower and the shock positions is kit settings and the lower suspension arm were moved nearer to the back

Using Schumacher blue mini pins the 25mm size with very hard rubber in for the final and one qualifier and 20mm with soft from in for the 1st qualifier. The SD was very easy to drive at my track and the rear did not spin out when accelerating out of the corners. But it was drifting a lot in to the hair pins and out of fast corners, this was sorted a bit by having the 25mm on. This set up got poll in the qualifier and 2nd in the final.

hugh