Changing to brushless

[Rick]

As the title says, but I do not know the advantages/disadvantages of:

Sintered/Bonded? (Not sintered)
Sensorless/Sensored

Can someone please explain in laymans terms

Cheers

[tappy]

A sintered rota is better than a bonded rota. They run cooler so there's less chance of thermalling (cutting out to prevent damage). This means you can gear them higher. They are also quicker with better braking

A motor with a sintered rota will cost more.

A sensored speedo/motor has an extra cable running from the motor to the speedo. This communicates to the speedo the exact position of the rota. This stops the speedo from cogging.

[PDW]

These are good sources of information to support Tappy's post. When you read them, bear in mind that these guys make BL motors, so their comparisons are favourable to their product. However, their technical explanations are second to none.

http://www.teamnovak.com/tech_info/index.html

http://www.lrp-electronic.de/e/lis/

HTH :)

[Craig]

That makes for some intresting reading there. Especailly with novak sensored vs sensorless piece.

Be intresting to see the Tekin range of brushless speedos which is sensorless running aginst the novaks and lrp range.

[Rick]

Cheers guys, just what I was looking for.

Sintered & Sensored it is then :cool:

[Rick]

I have just picked up a brushless combo from a racer at my club. The speedo is a Novak GTB.

Looking on the novak site I see that some of the later ones have a "Lipo Stop" function. As there is no mention of Lipo at all in the instructions I am assuming that this is an earlier one without that function.

If I read correctly this merely stops the battery from being run too low, if I charge between every race then this should overcome the problem, should it not.

So my question is " do I NEED to buy the lipo stop addon?", or is it a nice to have rather than a must have?

Cheers guys

PS the motor is the SS4300, with the sintered rotor upgrade, the lipo has not been purchased yet.

[Dave Treacy]

Rick, not a lipo expert, but I believe you can get a "voltage regulator" which will shut down the car if the voltage gets too low.

[robh]

I have tried the smart stop and its defo a 'nice to have' rather than a must have the cut out is at a point you should have stopped racing anyway so just charge after each run, no problems.

[Rick]

Cheers guys, that saves a few pennies.

[Rick]

I have another question. The sensor wire on the moror is a little on the long side, can it be shortened, is there a shorter alternative.

it does not look like there is a plug on the motor end, however I am reluctant to give it a tug. Is it plugged or hard wired

Thanks again

[tappy]

I have another question. The sensor wire on the moror is a little on the long side, can it be shortened, is there a shorter alternative.

it does not look like there is a plug on the motor end, however I am reluctant to give it a tug. Is it plugged or hard wired

Thanks again

The Novak motors are hard wired. If you were to use another motor (LRP, Speedmind, Orion etc...) they all have a socket on the top of the motor. So you could use them with a shorter cable.

My GTB came with a plastic spiral cable protector for the sensor wire. It neatens it up alot.

[Rick]

Yes I have that, but in all the cars I have seen the speedo is mounted next to the motor, so why do they make it so long?

Is the plug on the speedo end of the LRP sensor wire the same as the novak?

Cheers

[tappy]

The plug end is the same no matter what the motor. It is an industry standard.

[Rick]

Cheers mate.