Just bought a Mission Carbon....

[Rain]

Hi all.

New member here, just bought a mission Carbon kit (well, my fiance bought it for me as a birthday present). Finished building it last night.

LOVE the way it went together. All the parts fitted nicely, and I like the way it has actual screws! I had a XXX-S beforehand, and the teeny weeny allen screws really made my fingers bleed trying to put them in!

Anyhoo...

Couple of quick questions.

1. Finished building it as per kit instructions. The spur gear, when rotating, seems to be slightly out of alighnment. When looking from the top, it looks to wobble a bit when rotating. Is this normal? It seems to mesh ok.

2. The club where I race runs stock motors, so I went for a Team Orion Core Stock (dyno). Track is outdoor, dusty tarmac (its next to a BMX track), fairly twisty, but no real hairpins to speak of, and a (at a guess) 60' main straight. I went for a 26 tooth pinion to go with the standard 86 tooth spur, as the book says this gives a 7.00 gear ratio. From advice I remember from when I was running my losi, they reckoned 7.00 was about right for this car. Would this hold true for my new Mission too?

3. Not really solely Schumacher related but how do I solder my battery packs together so they don't fall apart? I am taking a drive at the weekend to buy a battery building jig thingy, which I hope will help, but are there any tips an experienced racer can offer?

Cheers in advance

Ian

[AndyT]

A tip I was given for building packs was not to bother with a jig. Get some superglue and a small can of activator. Lay the 1st two batterys on a flat surface and run a bead of glue inbetween em. Give it a light spray of activator and let it set (only takes a few secs). Then do the other 4 until all 6 are bonded. Then flip it over and do the same on the other side. Then all you gotta do is solder the bars on and bobs ya uncle. The 1st one I did took a while, but the second one I did in about 10mins. Doing it this way ensures that the batterys are all right next to each other, and their very secure.

[Remo]

I would not recommend super glue as they are too hard on the shrinks, unless you reshrink them....

Better method in my opinion is to use the chassis as a jig, then use silicone sealant (yes the clear rubbery stufff), squeeze a line between each cell and then scrape off the excess (I use my wet pinky). Do that to one side and use the battery clamp to hold the cells down and then when set do the other side, when done the cells will be held together with a little flex, this stops the shrink being ripped on impact... thanks to MikeS for this tip BTW!

Re gearing if others are using 7.0 in a Losi it is also a good starting point for your Mission too, but do experiment due to different driving style and perhaps motor... remember the Core is more of a rev type motor.

The little wobble on the spur gear is quite normal BTW.

[DA_cookie_monstA]

Funnily enough Remo, that is exactly how I build my cells, you don't actually needed to bond the cells together, I do it just to stop them from concerteenering (is the spelt wrong? probably). And if you use the chassis as a jig, then you know those cells will fit stright in there.

[Rain]

Thanks for the input everyone! There was much swearing and gnashing of teeth when I was trying to solder the packs together freehand.

I will try the silicone stuff I think, that sounds like it would work for me (and I could do it). And I seem to remember, back when I was doing offroad about 10 years ago, some of my sanyo packs were fixed together like that...

Cheers

Ian

[Remo]

Yeah DCM, thats why I bond mine too cos I have some with weak battery bars.... I think now if one have spent good money of cells then I would now suggest stiff battery bars... and not the bendy copper nonsense! They may be cheap but has no strenght holding the pack together either.

Silicone is good stuff but remember to use some motor cleaner to clean the cells first from grease so the silicone will bond well to the cell body. it takes longer to set but worth the wait! ;D

[spad]

Aparently the normal screws are worse than the allen screw this is why schumacher are fitting the new Mi2 with allen screw. people say that the normal self tapping screws just come open to easily and i am forever tightening mine up. i was told that the best thing to do is to change all of em' to allen ones.

David

[AndyT]

I'm currently changing over my screws to hex m3 screws on my mission. TBH the only ones i've had a problem with are the ones that go into metal, such as the layshafts, motor mount etc... I stripped the heads on 3 screws in them. Trying to get m3's into plastic is not an easy task and really needs a tap to create the thread 1st. I'm probably gonna ditch my remaining hex's and get some torx, as these are nigh on impossible to knacker the head on.