Doughty
15-01-2004, 03:46 PM
Latest News
Losi official reveal the rumoured LST (Losi Super Truck) click here for a look Losi Super Truck (http://www.teamlosi.com/kits/LST/index_main.htm)
Richard Cree's standard setups are now available on there Team Losi website, click here xxx-BK2 (http://www.teamlosi.com/setups/bk2/index.htm) and here xxx-4 g+ (http://www.teamlosi.com/setups/xxx4g+/index.htm)
FAQ Related to questions from this board
Q - How do I use the standrad Mini-T servo with my own radio equipment
A - You can't the servo in the Mini-T is 4 wire, this is because most of the electronics for the servo are actually inside the speedo/reciver unit.
Q - What servo will fit in my Mini-T?
A - The Mini-T servo saver is a hex fit so it wont fit on any regular servo. people have had good results from using a HiTec HS-55 servo. it is a direct physical fit into the car with no modifications. You can also use to top servo gear from the standard Losi Mini-T servo in the HS-55 (some minor adjustments needed to the gear - cutting a small lug off) so that it will allow you to use the Losi Mini-T servo saver on this. I am yet to test this myself but I hear the servo works quite well. Bear in mind though that the servo is a 'feather' servo and with plastic gears when making this choice.
Q – Why do the front wheels on my xxx-s rattle when on power and on a lock?
A – The CVD’s are running past an efficient operational angle, the problem seems to be amplified when using the spool rather than with the one-way or diff. You will find however, that when the car is under load (on the ground) the problem will not be too noticeable.
Q - What is the internal ratio of my car?
xxx-BK2 – 2.56:1
xxx-KE – 2.43:1
xxx-4 – 2.10:1
xxx-T – 2.43:1
xxx-s – 1.83:1
Q – How should I fill my Losi Shocks?
A – There are two ways to do this; I get similar results with each method.
#1 – ‘My Way’
1 – Fill the shock body up to where the thread starts
2 – Leave for a short while to let any air bubbles get out
3 – Get the shock rod/piston/cartridge and push it all the way in (so the ball cup is up against the cartridge and the piston is fully extended)
4 – Plunge the piston into the oil slowly until the cartridge meets the body.
5 – Slowly screw the cartridge into the body holding the shock at ~45 degrees; you will loose some oil at this point.
6 – Tighten the cartridge using your normal tool(s).
#2 – The ‘Other’ Way
1 – Fill the shock body up to where the thread starts
2 – Leave for a short while to let any air bubbles get out
3 - Get the shock rod/piston/cartridge and pull it all the way out (opposite to the above, the piston should be against the body with the cup fully extened)
4 – Slowly screw the cartridge into the body, tighten all the way and back it off about ¼ of a turn.
5 – Slowly push the piston all the way in with the shock held at ~45 degrees; you will loose some oil while you are doing this.
6 – Tighten with your normal tool(s).
You may also be interested in this http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/2003prods/shocktool.htm this is great for getting two shocks the same. And/or comparing the effect of small holes with light oil and big holes with heavy oil in different situations.
Q - Can someone explain to me how you get to a drilled piston ie. 555 or 666. How are these numbers made up? And what size drills you use to get there.
A - Losi pistons are in 'numbers' as well as colours they are as follows
#60 (Natural)
#57 (Black)
#56 (Red)
#55 (Orange)
#54 (Blue)
This number also relates to a drill size.
Whever people talk about a standard piston in number they would just use the 2 digits or the colour.
If they talk about a drilled piston they will use a 3 digit number, something like 556 or 566.
What it is the last number of the 'standard' piston numbers, notice they are all 5something so that does not matter
so a 556 piston would have 2 holes in #55 and one hole in #56
a 566 piston would have 1 hole in #55 and 2 holes in #56
**Tip From Richard Cree**
The number as Chris says relates to an imperial drill size, bear in mind the bigger the drill number, the smaller the hole.
Another thing to consider is a drilled 555 piston will have a slightly different size to a moulded 555 piston, for this reason I always used drilled pistons, even if they are standard versions available.
This really is very fine tuning, but once you get the hang of it you will find the jump between std pistons to be immense.
Measurements
#60 - 1.02mm
#59 - 1.05
#58 - 1.07
#57 - 1.10
#56 - 3/64"
#55 - 1.30mm
#54 - 1.40mm
Q – I have heard people ‘cutting’ their belt on the xxx-s (g+) what and how is this done?
A – This was discovered by Steve Lissamore, This is a modification to free up the transmission of the xxx-s. It is basically cutting every other tooth off of the drive belt. These should not be cut too deep so that you go down to the ‘thread’ in the belt. See the picture here http://www.overrc.com/courses/courses2004/dhicup2004/spashett3.jpg The same modification can be done on the xxx-4, there are an odd number of teeth on this drive belt though so don’t be surprised when you end up with 2 next to each other at the end, this does not seem to cause a problem though.
The belt is more prone to stretching with this done to it so check your belt tension more frequently.
Losi Have now released a new belt kit for the xxx-4 and xxx-s. with this new kit you will no longer need to do the above, see here for more information
Losi Belt Kit (http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/2004prods/xxxs-4_drivebelt.htm)
Q – Does anyone have a setup for <track>?
A – Setups are very personal, there are good ones and bad ones, but there is never a ‘magic’ setup. The best advise I can give you is when going to a track you have never been to before, is to use a setup of your own from a similar style of track. Then adjust it using the tips at the back of your manual, these are normally very good. If ever you get lost, go back to something you know and start again. You may not get a good setup right away but you will gain a lot in car setup knowledge, eventually when you are going to a new track for the first time, you will know exactly what to change on your car after practice and your car will be ace for all of the qualifiers.
General FAQ
Q – What size hinge pins do I need to replace my standard hinge pins with Titanium Nitride ones?
A – Go to http://www.teamlosi.com/techtips/Ti_hingepin_guide.htm you will see all the sizes you need and what is needed for each specific car.
Q – Where can I find setup sheets for all Team Losi cars?
A – Go to http://www.teamlosi.com/setups/index.htm you will find blanks setup sheets and also as Factory Team setups for all Losi cars.
Q – What is the difference between the compounds and spike/tread patterns of each tire, and in what situation would I use them.
A – Losi Tires work great on dirt tracks and bare grass tracks, go to http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/tirechart/tirechart.htm
There is a detailed chart explaining the tires and their uses.
Q – What is the order of the Losi springs from softest to hardest?
A – There is a full Losi Spring chard located at http://www.teamlosi.com/techtips/spring_chart.htm
Q – How should I look after the bearings in my Losi car?
A – Go to http://www.teamlosi.com/techtips/bearings.htm for information specific to Losi bearings.
Q – Is there anyway to improve my Losi shocks?
A – Go to http://www.teamlosi.com/techtips/general/shocks.htm for some tips
Electric Off-Raod Specific FAQ
Q – What foam inserts should I use with Losi tires?
A – Go to http://www.teamlosi.com/techtips/general/tires.htm for some useful tips
Q – What is the difference between the driveshafts and outdrives?
A – This information is from Todd Hodge – Factory Losi R&D
First steel diff vs. plastic diff. You will have more friction with the steel diff rather than the plastic. This friction equals traction. Normally on low to medium bite tracks I will run steel diffs in 2wd. If the traction is super high I will put a plastic diff in to eliminate some of the traction. As for what each drive shaft does with plastic or steel diff I think it is a relativeley the same.
Steel Dogbones-I feel have less bind so they have more steering through the center of the turn and will go through bumps better. The reason they have less bind is because the point where the joint is is plastic on a steel pin.
Aluminum Dogbones-Same as steel but problem a bit more accelleration since they are lighter.
Steel CVD's-I think for the first few runs they have a freer feel than dogbones. But once they are run a few times they create more friction than dogbone making the car want to initiate the turn faster and has more traction through the whole turn. They also square up better on corner exit.
Aluminum CVD-Same as steel but problem a bit more accelleration since they are lighter.
Sliders-Good through bumps less traction of all drive shafts.
BK Bones-Has less traction than cvd's and dogbones but will not get stuck in the turn like a slider.
Electric On-Road Specific FAQ
Q – How do I set droop, ride height and tweak on my xxx-S?
A – For a comprehensive step by step guide go to http://www.teamlosi.com/xxxs_page/xxxs_droop.htm
Nitro Off-Road Specific FAQ
Q – What engine crank type will fit in my xxx-NT?
A – Go to http://www.teamlosi.com/techtips/xxxnt_crank.htm for an explaination.
Please feel free to PM me if you notice anything that you believe is wrong or that should be on there and I will amend where needed.
Losi official reveal the rumoured LST (Losi Super Truck) click here for a look Losi Super Truck (http://www.teamlosi.com/kits/LST/index_main.htm)
Richard Cree's standard setups are now available on there Team Losi website, click here xxx-BK2 (http://www.teamlosi.com/setups/bk2/index.htm) and here xxx-4 g+ (http://www.teamlosi.com/setups/xxx4g+/index.htm)
FAQ Related to questions from this board
Q - How do I use the standrad Mini-T servo with my own radio equipment
A - You can't the servo in the Mini-T is 4 wire, this is because most of the electronics for the servo are actually inside the speedo/reciver unit.
Q - What servo will fit in my Mini-T?
A - The Mini-T servo saver is a hex fit so it wont fit on any regular servo. people have had good results from using a HiTec HS-55 servo. it is a direct physical fit into the car with no modifications. You can also use to top servo gear from the standard Losi Mini-T servo in the HS-55 (some minor adjustments needed to the gear - cutting a small lug off) so that it will allow you to use the Losi Mini-T servo saver on this. I am yet to test this myself but I hear the servo works quite well. Bear in mind though that the servo is a 'feather' servo and with plastic gears when making this choice.
Q – Why do the front wheels on my xxx-s rattle when on power and on a lock?
A – The CVD’s are running past an efficient operational angle, the problem seems to be amplified when using the spool rather than with the one-way or diff. You will find however, that when the car is under load (on the ground) the problem will not be too noticeable.
Q - What is the internal ratio of my car?
xxx-BK2 – 2.56:1
xxx-KE – 2.43:1
xxx-4 – 2.10:1
xxx-T – 2.43:1
xxx-s – 1.83:1
Q – How should I fill my Losi Shocks?
A – There are two ways to do this; I get similar results with each method.
#1 – ‘My Way’
1 – Fill the shock body up to where the thread starts
2 – Leave for a short while to let any air bubbles get out
3 – Get the shock rod/piston/cartridge and push it all the way in (so the ball cup is up against the cartridge and the piston is fully extended)
4 – Plunge the piston into the oil slowly until the cartridge meets the body.
5 – Slowly screw the cartridge into the body holding the shock at ~45 degrees; you will loose some oil at this point.
6 – Tighten the cartridge using your normal tool(s).
#2 – The ‘Other’ Way
1 – Fill the shock body up to where the thread starts
2 – Leave for a short while to let any air bubbles get out
3 - Get the shock rod/piston/cartridge and pull it all the way out (opposite to the above, the piston should be against the body with the cup fully extened)
4 – Slowly screw the cartridge into the body, tighten all the way and back it off about ¼ of a turn.
5 – Slowly push the piston all the way in with the shock held at ~45 degrees; you will loose some oil while you are doing this.
6 – Tighten with your normal tool(s).
You may also be interested in this http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/2003prods/shocktool.htm this is great for getting two shocks the same. And/or comparing the effect of small holes with light oil and big holes with heavy oil in different situations.
Q - Can someone explain to me how you get to a drilled piston ie. 555 or 666. How are these numbers made up? And what size drills you use to get there.
A - Losi pistons are in 'numbers' as well as colours they are as follows
#60 (Natural)
#57 (Black)
#56 (Red)
#55 (Orange)
#54 (Blue)
This number also relates to a drill size.
Whever people talk about a standard piston in number they would just use the 2 digits or the colour.
If they talk about a drilled piston they will use a 3 digit number, something like 556 or 566.
What it is the last number of the 'standard' piston numbers, notice they are all 5something so that does not matter
so a 556 piston would have 2 holes in #55 and one hole in #56
a 566 piston would have 1 hole in #55 and 2 holes in #56
**Tip From Richard Cree**
The number as Chris says relates to an imperial drill size, bear in mind the bigger the drill number, the smaller the hole.
Another thing to consider is a drilled 555 piston will have a slightly different size to a moulded 555 piston, for this reason I always used drilled pistons, even if they are standard versions available.
This really is very fine tuning, but once you get the hang of it you will find the jump between std pistons to be immense.
Measurements
#60 - 1.02mm
#59 - 1.05
#58 - 1.07
#57 - 1.10
#56 - 3/64"
#55 - 1.30mm
#54 - 1.40mm
Q – I have heard people ‘cutting’ their belt on the xxx-s (g+) what and how is this done?
A – This was discovered by Steve Lissamore, This is a modification to free up the transmission of the xxx-s. It is basically cutting every other tooth off of the drive belt. These should not be cut too deep so that you go down to the ‘thread’ in the belt. See the picture here http://www.overrc.com/courses/courses2004/dhicup2004/spashett3.jpg The same modification can be done on the xxx-4, there are an odd number of teeth on this drive belt though so don’t be surprised when you end up with 2 next to each other at the end, this does not seem to cause a problem though.
The belt is more prone to stretching with this done to it so check your belt tension more frequently.
Losi Have now released a new belt kit for the xxx-4 and xxx-s. with this new kit you will no longer need to do the above, see here for more information
Losi Belt Kit (http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/2004prods/xxxs-4_drivebelt.htm)
Q – Does anyone have a setup for <track>?
A – Setups are very personal, there are good ones and bad ones, but there is never a ‘magic’ setup. The best advise I can give you is when going to a track you have never been to before, is to use a setup of your own from a similar style of track. Then adjust it using the tips at the back of your manual, these are normally very good. If ever you get lost, go back to something you know and start again. You may not get a good setup right away but you will gain a lot in car setup knowledge, eventually when you are going to a new track for the first time, you will know exactly what to change on your car after practice and your car will be ace for all of the qualifiers.
General FAQ
Q – What size hinge pins do I need to replace my standard hinge pins with Titanium Nitride ones?
A – Go to http://www.teamlosi.com/techtips/Ti_hingepin_guide.htm you will see all the sizes you need and what is needed for each specific car.
Q – Where can I find setup sheets for all Team Losi cars?
A – Go to http://www.teamlosi.com/setups/index.htm you will find blanks setup sheets and also as Factory Team setups for all Losi cars.
Q – What is the difference between the compounds and spike/tread patterns of each tire, and in what situation would I use them.
A – Losi Tires work great on dirt tracks and bare grass tracks, go to http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/tirechart/tirechart.htm
There is a detailed chart explaining the tires and their uses.
Q – What is the order of the Losi springs from softest to hardest?
A – There is a full Losi Spring chard located at http://www.teamlosi.com/techtips/spring_chart.htm
Q – How should I look after the bearings in my Losi car?
A – Go to http://www.teamlosi.com/techtips/bearings.htm for information specific to Losi bearings.
Q – Is there anyway to improve my Losi shocks?
A – Go to http://www.teamlosi.com/techtips/general/shocks.htm for some tips
Electric Off-Raod Specific FAQ
Q – What foam inserts should I use with Losi tires?
A – Go to http://www.teamlosi.com/techtips/general/tires.htm for some useful tips
Q – What is the difference between the driveshafts and outdrives?
A – This information is from Todd Hodge – Factory Losi R&D
First steel diff vs. plastic diff. You will have more friction with the steel diff rather than the plastic. This friction equals traction. Normally on low to medium bite tracks I will run steel diffs in 2wd. If the traction is super high I will put a plastic diff in to eliminate some of the traction. As for what each drive shaft does with plastic or steel diff I think it is a relativeley the same.
Steel Dogbones-I feel have less bind so they have more steering through the center of the turn and will go through bumps better. The reason they have less bind is because the point where the joint is is plastic on a steel pin.
Aluminum Dogbones-Same as steel but problem a bit more accelleration since they are lighter.
Steel CVD's-I think for the first few runs they have a freer feel than dogbones. But once they are run a few times they create more friction than dogbone making the car want to initiate the turn faster and has more traction through the whole turn. They also square up better on corner exit.
Aluminum CVD-Same as steel but problem a bit more accelleration since they are lighter.
Sliders-Good through bumps less traction of all drive shafts.
BK Bones-Has less traction than cvd's and dogbones but will not get stuck in the turn like a slider.
Electric On-Road Specific FAQ
Q – How do I set droop, ride height and tweak on my xxx-S?
A – For a comprehensive step by step guide go to http://www.teamlosi.com/xxxs_page/xxxs_droop.htm
Nitro Off-Road Specific FAQ
Q – What engine crank type will fit in my xxx-NT?
A – Go to http://www.teamlosi.com/techtips/xxxnt_crank.htm for an explaination.
Please feel free to PM me if you notice anything that you believe is wrong or that should be on there and I will amend where needed.