Alloy Hub Carriers

[Joshua]

Just a quick Question for you all. Are the alloy hub carriers a worthy investment?

the reason I ask is that I got a set from e-bay trouble is the bearings were a very sloppy fit in one of these, so under advisment i but some superglue on a cotton bud and lined the inside( waited for this to dry) and lo and behold. a nice tight fit. the bearings are now stuck fast, great u may think, bearings need replacing now and i cannot get them out.. ahhhhhhhhhh

so should i invest in a new set.....

cheers

Dave

[rice98w]

i always buy them, although for the Mi2 i will need different ones :'(

they are a worthy investment, if you get them though, i would recommend titanium hinge pins too, those standard ones bend REALLY easy.

they are worth the money, your "loose fit" hub carrier is a definate odd case.

[al]

well there are two different types one set that is good the pin and grubscrew style and a not so good set the threaded style, the pin and grub screw ones allow for differnt high and low positioning of the hub !

if you were to get some new ones get the pin and grub screw style !

alot of people just tend to run them on the front,

al

I use them on the front only and am very happy with them. The car has had more stearing since I added them. The bearings fit very nicly in them, the bearins fit a lot better in the alloy hubs. And also they are purple ;D

[marcoski]

Chuck them in a pan of boiling water! The ally will expand faster than the steel bearing, and the boiling water will also break down the super glue. Tap out the bearings while the carrier is still hot. Easy!

[al]

Yea mark are the ones you use the pin ang grub screw type. they are different to the standard ones and do change the car but the c=earlier ones with the threads in just have a tendencey to strip and dont change the car in any way of what i know of. but i supose they are PURPLE

al :)

The ones I have got is the grub screw type. I didnt know that they made purple ones with screws? Or are you talking about the plastic black hubs? The main reason I got the purple ones is because I was fed up with striping the thread in the plastic ones.
Mark

[al]

yea the ones i was talking about where an earlier version that was a alloy hub exactly the same as the black plasic ones so again people were striping the threads in the bottom !

al

[MarkB]

Odd that Dave - never heard of a sloppy alloy hub. It can be a pain getting the bearings out my rear hubs...for some reason! I think v. hot water would be a start - or a super-glue release agent to loosen the glue lining.

Our thinking in using them this year was they were more free than the plastic hubs, that can nip the bearings up. So yes I'd recommend them if you want the ultimate Mission - there are other things I'd get first though!

Cheers
MarkB

[rice98w]

- there are other things I'd get first though!



like an Mi2 ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

[jason]

One other advantage that Mark forgot to mention is that they can be removed and replaced on the car with out affecting the tweak, because the balls have a ring on them where the old threaded ones are subject to how far you screwed the thread in the bottom and mess up the tweak on the car.

Jason

[Joshua]

The Mission I have used to belong to Team Driver so all purple and titanium bits were included. RW diff pulleys, threaded shocks etc etc....

I think the answer to my question then is yes they are worth it. I do like the concept of the stop on the ball stud it makes for one less set-up worry (same both sides).

thanks for the help guys and gals(well u never know these days).

Dave.

I would say an MI2 would be somthing to get RATHER than the alloy hubs lol. The only thing is with the alloy hubs is that the holes for the top wishbone balljoint ball isnt ajustable (only one hole for the stud) I thought that would be a problem as I have seen people with hubs (alloy) and to have 2deg camber they have to have there top wishbones near enough all they way done up! They also had the alloy shock tower mount aswell but that is a lot wider than the standard mission ones because they are ment for the fusion. There fine with the plastic ones ment for the mission.
Mark

[MarkB]

Good point Mark,

I've been running the Fusion bulkheads for so long now, I'd forgotten the alloy hubs come with only the "in-line" or outer upper hole. Use these and the length of the upper link is as per the kit set up. Stick to plastic hubs and to run the outer hole needs some work with a Dremel on the top of the hub to stop it fouling.

The alloy version of the Fusion bulkhead only has one hole, in the middle of the two holes of the plastic version. As someone who runs on the lower holes all the while (scary is fast (c) Jason!) I don't run the alloy bulkheads much!

So I'd say the Fusion bulkheads are a must if you're using the alloy hubs - trust me you'll not regret using them.

Cheers
MarkB

PS - Hi Jason, and a darned good point!

I only have the purple hubs on the front of my car, I havent tried the fusion bulk heads yet...I will buy some next time I break the standard ones (again) >:( Some times my car is bombproof....and then every thing posible will break in one race (usualy a final in my case!) Sorry, wondered off topic there ::)
Mark

[MattW]

I use them on the front. I also use a version of the fusion bulkhead. I tried them on the back and didn't like the way the car felt, so i have gone back to the std ofset hub and std bulkhead.

The alloy hubs are just so more reliable. You can re-build them and they are spot on and they hold up better in the car.

Yeah, I find that I can take the hub off a lot faster and the same with putting it back on, no fussing about with allen keys, you dont even have to take you wheel off to get an allen driver in there to take it off! Time saver for the "last minuite" repairs.
Mark

[al]

after impact the hole in the bottom can become reshaped- lol if you hit things hard enough !!!

al ;D

Cant say I have ever had that problem.....I ran 19turn today and had some hard nocks and didnt damage them at all!
Mark