Ass' shocks on BC Special.

[BC Rog]

Ok, so they are better ... but still not sure why!

I have made up pistons for the Yokomo Pro shocks to give me the same flow both around and through them and the car was better but not as good as with the AE pistons in AE shocks (std B3 all round).

I have no idea why, none of my work mates can explain it either (even the ones who start there names Dr. and end with PHD!!!!).

Yes, I know I'm an anarak but I actually flow tested the pistons in shock bodies on a state of the art flow bench ..... used an old servo to move the shock through it's travel (cheaper and easier than a stepper-motor!!!) so I could get results everywhere. (Before any bofs' ask the flow meeter used was a Hartridge unit and the flow with the shafts in place was done as a 'resistance to movement' type experiment. The other flows where just plan and simple through flow metering..)

The gauntlet is thrown to anybody that can give me a proper scientific reason why the AE shocks are better than the same flow (around and through) pistons in Yokomo shocks. A prize goe to the person that can then explain it to the masses in english ;)

Looking forward to the National.

Rog

[millzy]

because it dose!!

and if it works dont touch it

[mike.stening]

maybe it has something to do with laminar to turbulant stae of the oil (ok a bit obvious...) what i mean is in the smaller shock the oil particals will be of a particular size, as the overall volume inside the shock is smaller the particals have less space to move around in and as such become turbulant at a different time to the AE for the opposite reason, larger volume same size molecules more room to move. Now this difference may be very hard to spot or messure in a controlled test (on track the piston movement is totally random, a control test will be finite to a degree.) but may just 'FEEL' better. just need to get some AE springs.

[BC Rog]

Hi folks,

just to let you know the latest. Tried running the rear shocks on the back of the shock tower today. Track was very rough and I was struggling a bit (although 10th overall at the end of round one wasn't too bad).

Running the shocks at the back does several things....

1) gets a bit of weight over the back to stop it kicking up.

2) whishbone flex / twist means that there is some give before the shocks load up .... helps if that end of the car is being upset by steps etc .... which it was.

3) Changes the polar moment of inertia ... ie. the way the car pivots. Helps if you are having to run the car soft for the bumps.


Anyway, that will form part of my new base set-up ... might be worth a try!! Using Ass Blue springs on the front ... 35wt / #3s ..... rear is Ass Grey 30wt / #3s. Rear link was inner on the middle row to outer of the standard two on the hub .... which was 1deg toe. Front link is longest on top row with king pin ball stud.

By the way, you will have to use a wing wire or similar as the shocks will foul the standard wing mounts. You will need to space the shock top mounts back off the tower to make sure that the shock is leaning backwards (ideally by the same as the anti-squat angle used...).

Right then, beer time.... ;D

Rog

[Doughty]

if the car has any inboard toe in on the rear when putting the shocks to the rear of the wishbones will actually make the shocks further out on the wishbone.

thats what makes the xxx4 work better

[BC Rog]

Chris that is a good point, if you note I said to drill / tap the new holes at the same position relative to the inner hinge pin hole for this reason.

The BC doesn't have inboard toe-in but does have some in the wishbone, ie not all the outboard toe is in the hubs (1deg hubs actually give about 2degs, 2 deg hubs 3 degs etc....)

Seems to help the car so I'm going to keep it on for a while to really sort it out. If it doesn't work for whatever reason then it's easier to put back to standard than to do in the first place...

Only problem is that I'm going to have to keep rear arms in stock drilled to the correct positions. :(

Give it a go ..... remember to consider teh wing mounting problems first though!!!!

Rog

[mike.stening]

rog, something similar to consider.
i have mentioned previously that i have lengthened the wheelbase over that of the SP, now 270mm rather than the 266mm of the SP. this does a similar thing to what moving the shocks round the back does, firstly the longer wheelbase is definately more stable, secondly it move the pivot point back further and straightens out the shocks so the move in a more linear manner, less pivot required in the ball joints. simple alternative to moving the socks and changing the wing mounts though the spacing out of the wishbones and fettling is a bit of a chore. ;D
worth a look if you want to try things, btw i have yet to try the Ass' shocks setup from mick and the car still handled well, using a similar setup but with the SP shocks.
more to think about :-X

[BC Rog]

Mike,

firstly I would agree that the standard SP shocks are great, as indeed would Mick. They are very smooth, leak free and the threaded adjustment has never moved for me!! The only problem is the amount of oil in the rear shocks. Basically there is too much body and not enough shaft!!! (no sniggering at the back please).

I wasn't convinced until I tried it but if defo works out better on lunar surfaces. If the tracks you race on are mainly undulating rather than full of holes, ridges and stutter sections then the SP shocks will be as good. Tiverton is an example .... actually think the SP shocks will be better there as they will encourage the back of the car to kick up and clear the big gap jumps and the surface is never rough enough to upset any car (if the XXX4 is good around there then anything will work ... lol)

As far as spacing things about I already have the car set so all shiming is lengthening the wheelbase, right down to filing the little 'lugs' of the front of the rear wishbones. Don't want to go too far with this as the driveshaft angles will upset the ballance of the car to. Isn't pyshics a worderful thing ..lol

The car is absolutely top class out of the box for all but the rough stuff (well oils and springs aside but hten thats normal for all cars). If you want a car that can do anything then it still works out less than the cost of a Pred' used to be and the car works as well, if not better on tight tracks.

I'm at the F2's tomorrow (arrival of new hound today means I have to dog sit at home!!!!) and hopefully will make top 20 .....(please .. ;))

Anybody doing the F3's are more than welcome to drive my car on the saturday night after 2wd if they are unconvinced. Last person to do that bought an SP the day after ;D !!!!!

Rog

[Gaz_Stanton]

Ran the SP for the first time at the F2's in box spec (apart from the AE shocks) & the handling was superb. ;D

In the final I put in lap times that would've easily challenged the sharp end of the A. Trouble is I had an absolute nightmare qualifying. I cannot remember EVER having such a bad day like that!! >:( >:( >:(
How often does all this happen in one day???
Practice 1: Strip servo gears (new servo! >:)
Practice 2: Snap front diff bolt
Heat 1: Snap rear diff bolt.
Heat 2: Pick up bad glitch on power
Heat 3: Glitch now severe, unable to start
Heat 4: Glitch better but still there, dump due to using untested motor. (after trying several to try to cure glitch)
Final: First finish of the day but still stuttering under heavy acceleration.

Finally track glitching down to problem with servo choke (after changing motor, xtal, reciever, speedo, power capacity, motor caps, schotty dode etc!!! >:()

Ran it again after the racing had finished & it was awesome! Bring on the F3's! ;D

[jimmy]

how common is the diff bolt breakage ? i know i have broken 1 or 2 on my yokomo mr4tc custom...

[Doomanic]

Very, get shouldered diff screws, part number ZS-508, and you should be ok.

[BC Rog]

I still can't believe they put the fully threaded ones in the box ... what a waste of space.

Got the shouldered screws in I built the car with, that was end of last year!! Just bought a spare set at the weekend after watching Gaz S's car ...... especially with my luck!!

Rog

P.S. Doom, what did I say about your cells in the cells / chargers post ......... nice to see proof (not that you could actually see Butch's car .. too much speeeeeeeeeedddddddddd).

[Chrislong]

Hey Guys,
Anybody running AE shocks with Yokomo caps for the bleed screw? makes for a smoother movement.

Ok, so running AE shocks with the longer shafts works, we've all seen that - but, does that not reduce the travel the rear wishbones have got due to shorter bodies? Surely it'll cause the shaft to wack the end of the body ( :o!) of the shock sooner - or is the difference so slight it won't do bugger all?

Chris

[Gaz_Stanton]

how common is the diff bolt breakage ? i know i have broken 1 or 2 on my yokomo mr4tc custom...


No probs at all after putting the shouldered screws in.

[millzy]

Rog, how about letting me have a go with the car after racing on sunday?! you canshow me how a set up one feels like

[Gaz_Stanton]

Cheers Mills, was mine not good enough for you? ::)

I do know the rear ride height needed to be raised as the track had cut up (not exactly had chance to play the setup all day >:()
Other than that i thought it was good. Plenty of turn in on corner entry & pretty planted mid to exit.
What did you think? (as you've had a tad more 4wd running than me in the past few years)

[mike.stening]

ok there keeps being talk ablout the rear shaft length, so does this mean its pointless running the B3 rear shocks as the body is longer?
also yeah run the Yoke caps on the Ass' shocks makes setup much easier, also if you can get them try some of the shock bladders and you could also try the Pro ten small springs on the shaft (outside the body) the Japanise drivers seem to like that one.

[BC Rog]

Firstly,

The whole point of changing the shocks to Ass is that you reduce the oil in the back from the amount in the Yokomo shock. Thus yes, B3 bodies would be WORSE as they are longer / higher volume than the Yokomo ones!!!!

As for the travel, the piston shaft does indeed touch the shock caps. It's no problem though, not if the shocks are built correctly as the extra shaft in the bodies will inc. the volume and you will not come right out of the oil!

I used to have real problems with the Ass shocks, on any car, as I couldn't get them to feel right. Mick Cragg sorted me out a method that works, I now use the alloy shock caps (I find them easier to work with .. Mick doesn't .... make your own mind up) and think I'm getting the shocks on the money. Still need topping up every couple of runs though as the damn things still leak a bit!!!!!!!

Think the method Mick showed me is on the Ass website, but not sure.

Millzy, not really fair on Gaz as he didn't get enough time to get the best out of the car due to all his other problems. Sure he will get it sorted.

I changed to Ass silver rears when the track cut up, normally run the greys. That really sorted the car out ... much quicker! I drove worse though, new puppy had kept me up all the previous night barking so was knackerded by then ..... still lapping on the pace for the back of the A, as all day .... until I crashed it .... (as all day .. ;)).

Rog

[mike.stening]

so in theory i would be beter off putting the Ass blue and silver springs on the yoke shocks

[BC Rog]

Mike,

better than what???

Better than using B3 shocks (rear anyway .... probalby)

Better than running B4 shocks with 1.32 " shafts in the rear .. probalby not!!

As I posted b4, the Ass shocks help most when the surfaces gives up and is only fit for lunar landings! Yokomo shock is fine for smooth stuff.

Rog

[BC Rog]

If you make it up to Worcs for the F3's then you can have a look over my car, a drive if you like.

The Ass shocks will be better at a hell hole like Worcs. If your racing on the usual UK bolwing greens I'm not so sure you'll notice the same sort of difference!

Honest opinion.....

Rog

[millzy]

lol Gaz
the Yoko wasn't bad I felt that it was really stable going in and out of the banked corners but had a bit to much turn in for my liking, not a problem i know as i could just set it up different , but where my Losi went flat out over the bumps your Yoko didnt like my approach, might have been good if i had tried a better line but all in all it was ok , what surprised me was i could drive a car with out a slipper!! ;D ;D

Rog, i just thought as you are in the know with setting the car up that if i had a go and i said i didnt like the way the car handled you could tell me what i could do if it was mine

[mike.stening]

well i've booked in for the f3's (well i'm an f5 i think but thats enough of that) so at present i am going.
anyway i might have a word with someone to see if i can borrow some Ass' shocks for the day, thats if they will let me.
no our tracks down here arent particularly flat, at the last regional at eastbourne the track strated to cut up bad at the start and end of the straight, in fact steve brooke managed to get his car vertical off one of the holes, yeah the yoke shocks did seem to kick up at the back but the fronts seemed pretty good all day and all on whites.
anyway the f3's should be a good learning curve, just a bit if a git i've got to leave at about 5 in the morning :o
is worcester a tight track or a bit open?

[BC Rog]

Worcs is VERY big and open .. u will probably dump on a stock at 3 mins unless you have power by the Devil..... Seriously!!

If you like you can pit near me and I will share all I know (that will takew about 5mins .... ;) ).

Bring a 12V dremel if you have one .. some mods to do!!!!!

Rog

[Doomanic]

is worcester a tight track or a bit open?


Which would you prefer?
Let me know and I'll make sure we do the opposite! ;D

[BC Rog]

Doom,

if it is half as good as Telford's effort we'll be in for a treat!!

Odd how people were close to dumping there and that is about 2/3rds a Worcs lap length.

No fear though, the Devil's cells saw me right!!!!

Rog

[mike.stening]

well crawley and eastbourne tend to be quite tight and twisty tracks so an open track would be welcome, would like the chance to open the car up a bit more, might keep my temperatures down a tad too :P.
rog i dont have a dremel but i do have some dremel bits i can stick in my 18v batt drill hehe, does the job just a bit heavy!! pm me what you want to do and i can try and make sure i have the tools with me. all the mods i have done have been with files ands the bits i have so you should be ok.
just hope my cells are up for the job, the set of 3300's i have get things a bit too warm for my liking, the 3000's are ok.
doom i can harrass you in person ;D

[Doomanic]

doom i can harrass you in person ;D


No problem, but be warned, Marcus isn't the only one who has chemo days! ;D

[mike.stening]

extend that rule my way a bit as i am definately not a morning person, and driving for 2.5 to 3 hours on a sunday morning might make me a little on the cranky side, but not jimmy ::) fandabbydozey!! :P

i'll play nice honest guvna!!!

[jimmy]

just got mi mr4bc special (thanks doom), on my lunch break and sniffin all the plastic bits.. i dont speak japanese reet well, does anyone have any build tips for me? ?!? i saw it comes with a pair of outdrive savers, do these just slot on? front or rear tho ? they have a hole in like they want to be screwed in place? or is that just me..

[BC Rog]

I think they just push on, use them on the front as the rear outdrives are steel!

I thought the car went together really well, no probs!

PM me if you want any tips. Sure Mick and Dave B' could advise too.

Rog

[jimmy]

are they ? i only had a quick prod of the baggie they were in but all the outdrives looked to be plastic, but like i say it was a QUICK look.. lunchtime rush stylee...

dont think i'll be racing this weekend as im working but i might pop along to batley and see if dave or mick are there for some advice...

[Doomanic]

Jimmy, you've got the lastest 2003 spec car, it may be different to Rogers.
Probably best to ask someone who also has the 2003 spec car.

[jimmy]

cheers doom, one set of outdrives is indeed steel, looks totally plastic even out the bag... i forgive meself... :-[

[BC Rog]

In all fairness I think there aren't that many differences between the issue 1 and issue 2 cars, certainly mine has 99% of the bits that matter that they have changed!

As far as I can tell looking over Lee Taylors car the main differences are;

No alloy bat strap on iss2 car (shame, it was so nice too ...)

4 hole rear hubs with big bearing holes (good move .. I want!)

All the alloy bits are blue (not just plain as in mine ... boohoo)

Ti turn buckles as standard (worth loosing the bat strap for those!!)

Graphite shock towers (me want, me want!!!)

Alloy outdrive savers, again I'll take soem of those as I run plastic diffs at both ends of my car.

Geometry wise the car is the same, there are a lot of things that can be done to make the car better that require little or no money spending on it. It's pretty damn fly straight out of the box!

If it was my car I would,

Buy the diff bearing shim kit and shim the diffs to remove the slop. Not so the bearings bind but just enough keep them in there correct position and the belts running straight / not touching anything. I also removed material around the front belt guide as the belt rubs there slightly.

Same is true of the axles, different shim kit needed though.

Change the spur gear for a Robinson one. This is purely that it is easier to see the mess with the white spure ... it is buried deep in the transmission. It is also ligher, runs true and you will need it if I ever finish this slipper clutch design of mine :)

Whilst you have the transmission apart turn the hole in the motor mount into a slot so that the rollers can be moved up and down. This will allow you to adjust for belt tension. DON'T tension the belt more than you need to, it's intended as a guide more than a tensioner and the belts can run slack. I actually run my front belt looser than normal with no problems.

There is a heatsink plate that bolts below the motor mount .... well worth the £10 it costs .........

Associated springs; You will need silver and grey for the back (plus the kit Yokomo whites). Front is silver, blue (buggy fronts not cut) and Yokomo Gold, silver and kit whites.

Do everything you can when you build the car to run it on it's longest possible wheelbase, you'll work that out when the car is in your hand. I cut the lugs off the front side of the rear whishbones and shim the arms back some more. You will need to spce the alloy hinge pin retainer back if you do this or the arms will bind.

The last thing is cut down the servo posts and cut a little "U" in the chassis so you can run the servo on the deck .. found it moved on the standard height posts and also lowering the weight has to be a good thing!!

Once that is done slap on Mr. Craggs set-up for Bury S.E. and go try the car! If your using the kit shocks (no probs on most UK bowling greens .. I mean tracks) then use the piston with the biggest hole and up 5wt on the Ass shock set up.

That's it. I truely believe that it is as good, if not better than anything else out there! Even straight out of the box on the kit set-up it is consistent and quick. I had some reliability problems to begin with but I think some of those may have been my own making (solid layshaft + one-way diff!!!!) and nothing recently. Very time somebody has run into it their car has always come off worse and I've never broken it due to a driving error induced crash (and there has been a few of those ... lol)

Have fun.

Rog

[jimmy]

good stuff rog, all sounds like good advice to me..
i will have a look at that front belt tensioner thing, see if theres any rubbing..

what are the part numbers for the spacers ? wheels and diffs.. ? there was a bit of play in mine, not too much but the belt was off centre..

[Andy Taylor]

good stuff rog, all sounds like good advice to me..
i will have a look at that front belt tensioner thing, see if theres any rubbing..

what are the part numbers for the spacers ? wheels and diffs.. ? there was a bit of play in mine, not too much but the belt was off centre..




Also put the gold sheathed wheel bearings in the front and the silver ones in the rear or you will get slop............we ran it like that at first and might even try it again though as it went better before Rog got hold of it :D ;) I have a sneaking suspicion that was down to two things. Rog tightened up rear diff for us and the track was dry after second practise.....the car was so "OUT OF THE BOX" it was not out until after second practise I was still building it! The instructions I felt were bad but having over 20 cars here helped with building as there is only so much one can do to make a car :) (thanks for your help though Rog I was that rushed all day I never did say thanks)

D Final with a broken arm and no set up time was fine by me. To be fair he was actually driving faster and seemed quicker the very first time we put the car on the track.........I think that might have been to do with the fact he had more steering as the grip came up and I started chopping of rows but ended up with not enough before it cured what he described as a snatch.....in the damp of the practise that might not have been evident.

[jimmy]

i just guessed at the gold bearings and ended up putting them at the outside of the front and rear axels..
i couldnt get the sheilds off those to degrease and oil them, are they "special" bearings or just gold so you know where to put em ? i will try em on the front tho instead..

how did you shim your layshaft ? the instructions showed putting 2 shims on, but didnt say if they were thick or thin, and it showed to put them on the spur gear side.... it seemed too far over / too much slop, so i ended up putting one thick on the spur side and one thin on the other side.. still a little play but should be ok ??

do you have to grind the ends off the pins on the front drive shafts to stop them taking the outdrive savers off?? i know i had to do this on the losi..

[Andy Taylor]

i just guessed at the gold bearings and ended up putting them at the outside of the front and rear axels..
i couldnt get the sheilds off those to degrease and oil them, are they "special" bearings or just gold so you know where to put em ? i will try em on the front tho instead..




The gold bearings are thinner. They all go in the front I did the same as you until Rog came to the rescue. My german is better than my japanese :)

I think I had same problem with layshaft also and ended up doing same as you from memory.

And no I think the drive shafts are fine without being ground down but I remain to be corrected by higher authorities......MICK....ROG??

[jimmy]

what about the front arms andy, ? on mine i built the top links to the lengths as in the special suppliment, and put them in the holes as per craggs setup, there was way too much camber on the front and the arms wouldnt even go down as far as the wishbones level, taking out the camber it would gradually go down to maybe just below level but the caster block is still fouling the arm, its all thats stopping the arm from going way down..

is this right?? i know they are long arms so dont need to move as much of an angle, but surely they must be able to go below level, so when its sat with cells etc its level.. ?!??

[mike.stening]

one tip is when you are putiing it all together make sure the screws holding together the gear boxes dont pinch down too tight or you will tighten up the transmission this includes the screws for the top deck, check it buy pushing it along the floor with no pinion in it should run smooth, it only takes a little pinch to screw it up the tolerances are very close.
when building the shocks screw the tiny cap screw in before you put in oil and take it out again to pilot the hole otherwise you will have to fight it with oil in the shock, better to do it without and be sure.
also dont forget the tiny screws on either side of the front shock tower, leave em off and you will snap something.
you might want to run a drill through the hinge pin holes on the lower gear cases (make sure it is the same diameter as the hinge pin, it should just push in) this will let the wishbones drop freely and stops binding.
(not telling ya to suck eggs just stuff i have come across)
hope that helps.

[BC Rog]

Some good advice there, also .....

File the rear of the chassis so it's the shocks that limit down travel not the chassis lugs! DOn't need to take much off, just blend it all to the chamfer.

Are you running the front uprights in the correct set of holes? Some hubs (depending on the castor angle) have 2 sets of holes ... if this is the case use the lower set! 7.5 deg hubs should be in the kit and as such should only have one hole!

You have taken of the burrs haven't you? Also there is a bit of plastic across the upright mounting remove that ( you guys need to learn Japanese if your to stand a chance!!!) Mine drops far enough for the driveshafts to come out off the outdrive when the shocks are disconected and I'm running the uprights spaced as far forward as they go!!!

[BC Rog]

Congratulations to Gaz Stanton for winning the a at the west mids regional meeting with a BC SP and also Lee "broken wrist .... just like your mother told you would happen blind boy" Taylor for winning the B with his. Glad to be of service gents.

Andy, are you sure I got all my bits back .. car fells very light!!!!!! ;)

Rog

[Andy Taylor]

Congratulations to Gaz Stanton for winning the a at the west mids regional meeting with a BC SP and also Lee "broken wrist .... just like your mother told you would happen blind boy" Taylor for winning the B with his. Glad to be of service gents.

Andy, are you sure I got all my bits back .. car fells very light!!!!!! ;)

Rog


Fair enough Rog but as Gaz said lets see what happens when the top lads get serious :)

To be fair Lee should not have been in that final and he would not have run if any trophies were at stake, that would not have been cricket.

We only went to get a few more laps under our belt rather than turn up to the F3's with no run time. Having said that he did say being 2 laps up helped/allowed him to feel what the car was doing rather than racing and he is now convinced that those alloy hubs actually give more steering...............any technical reason why they should?

The biggest problem with testing is that its vary hard to get a piece of land that simulates a real track. Lets be fair the XXX4 is awsome on flat tracks.

And yes all the bits are back even if the hub carriers are on the wrong way round...or they were :)

[BC Rog]

Andy, turned my car into an Aussie (upside down and back to front .... do that enough whislt driving it!!)..... ;)

I can think of no reason why the alloy hubs / steering knuckles would give the car more steering, the geometry of the parts is the same!

The only things I can think of is that the alloy knuckles are slightly shorter than the plastic ones so a washer can be used to move the height of the driveshaft relative to the arm. In the lower position (washer on top) it is the same as the plastic ones, put the washer below and you will end up with the suspension lower in the wheel (if that makes any sense). That will make the car more stable on turn in and make it feel more positive. There is no more actual steering but the way it drives will feel more agresssive.

The other thing is did you use my silver "Paul W" wheel drives? If you did you where running the front of the car on max legal width rather than the 5mm narrower kit setting. Again this stabalises the front end and will make it feel like it can be thrown at the corner harder. Actually less 'turn in' but it can be pushed harder. I think Paul may still have a set. Glad somebody else noticed the difference ...(assuming you did use them) as I was begining to think they were only a pshycological advantage!!!

Rog

[Gaz_Stanton]

Thanks Rog. Hopefully more to come with the BC! ;D
(actually very pleased with that result as there were 2 Euro A finalists in the final!)

By the way I got hold of a pair of Worsley wide track hubs yesterday. Tried them for rounds 2,3 & 4 but found they made the car much too dosile for my liking. I think they should be good for high grip situations such as when the grass is fresh but not when the track has worn.
i actually went back to the kit hubs for the final and it had much more turn in on the dusty track.

[BC Rog]

Gaz,

with the wide track on the front of the car it allows you to set it up softer and gain the steering / grip back that way at the same time helping the car to ride the bumps. That is the theory anyway.....

Rog

[Gaz_Stanton]

Yeah, of course. Need to play about reducing pack and/or oil weight when using those hubs. It is a very big difference from std.
I was just refering to a back-to-back test where i just changed the hubs & kept the rest constant.
(or rather i had a set-up that worked well & didn't want to change it. :))
In the future (i.e. after F3's!) I will probably push the track out to max width and adjust the suspension to match.

[BC Rog]

Gaz,

if you get the YR4 (NOT MR4, not man enough!!!) kingpin ball stud conversion then you will find that the extra provided by the very long link is enough to balance the wide track. Usually run the same oils as Cragg / Bailey and it all work sweet for me.

I hear your a steering junkie as I am ....... should work for you...

Rog

[Gaz_Stanton]

Thanks, i'll try that.

Looks like i've got a bit of testing to do this winter. ::)

(also want to find a good set-up for those kit shocks. i really don't want to throw away shocks with lots of blue, threaded bodies & gold shafts.)

[BC Rog]

Will work fine on smooth surfaces. Will be using mine for winter carpet series so that I don't have to keep changing the Ass ones around!!

P.S. Will give you a wicked carpet set-up on those shocks just as soon as I can find where I wrote it down :)

Rog

[darryl]

Will work fine on smooth surfaces. Will be using mine for winter carpet series so that I don't have to keep changing the Ass ones around!!

P.S. Will give you a wicked carpet set-up on those shocks just as soon as I can find where I wrote it down :)

Rog


rog i hope you will share that carpet set up with all of us please mate

[BC Rog]

No probs .... will probably find when it's the last thing I'm looking for .... ask me after sunday!

Rog

[mike.stening]

rog anychance you can give me the piston setup you got to get the flow dynamics in the yoke shocks the same as in the Ass' ones, i know its does quite match the Ass' shocks but i cant afford to just dump the yoke ones now and buy the new B4 rears.

[millzy]

well lads i dont know what you did but your car gaz and rog looked mint on the tack, better than i have seen all year so well done lads for putting the hard work in.

[Gaz_Stanton]

Thanks Chris, the car was superb. ;D

I had the easily the quickest car over a lap but somehow only managed to quailfy 4th & finish 9th! ::) >:(

I'll get the diff screw prob sorted over the winter (lost another 3 runs because of it yesterday!!! >:( ) and should be on the pace for next year.

[millzy]

glad to hear it gaz

[jimmy]

My yoko bc s was great at the f3's
i thought 4wd was NAFF as i only raced a xxx4 before, got the bc not expecting much but have to say its awesome!.. i really enjoyed racing it, nerves got the better of me in the final but D final when i have only ever raced 4wd 4 times before im happy with!.. it just felt right..

[BC Rog]

Jimmy, did you run it as I suggested? Is nice hey!!

All I have to do now is find the intereference problem (left Worcs track ... gone again ... mmmm odd!! ;) ) and I'm confident at having a top car for next season. Only a new Pred will pull me away now .. and it would have to be the best part of free ....:)

Watched your final, car looked good, you drove it nicely ... well done!!

Mike, pistons for Yokomo shocks ...... I will have a look at my spec I drew up but it's new psitons as you have to make them larger in od, not just new holes!

Something to try is using the long shafts (Ass 1.32") in the Yokomo rear bodies then making up an insert to bring the volume of oil down. I will look into this as I too want to keep the Yokomo shocks, at least for the indoor car!

As a starting point use the standard pistons (3's in the front, 2's in the back) and move 5 wt lighter in the oil all round. That will get you going, from there it's a preference thing. Try 30 front, 25 rear.

The pack will never be the same obviously but it will be ok over all but the roughest tracks.

Trust me, if you are racing at regional level the rest of the car will be more than enough to make up for the shocks. The only hope the Losi drivers will have of catching you is into the corner after you lap them!!!!

Rog

[Doughty]

The only hope the Losi drivers will have of catching you is into the corner after you lap them!!!!

Rog


::)

just you wait! ;)