Cyclone building tips

[loheswaran]

I bought myself a cyclone the other day - I was a bit bored and fancied building a car for myself, and what better than a £200 black cyclone:D

Anyway, and more to the point, I have fully prepped all the carbon fibre parts, and am now doing the build.

I had a look at an old issue of radio race car that :D had a build tip that you should build the rear diff without the center bearing, and instead just leave the washers in? so therefore must I simply remove the centre bearing? Am i reading it right because this sounds really odd.:confused:

secondly, I read atthe back of the instructions that the base set up has 30wt oil rear, and 40wt oil at the front, however, the kit comes with 50wt oil. whati the better starting point?

I also wanted to know if anyone had any other building tips that may be of assistance to me

thanks:)

[vroomtshh]

There are some small black metal shims with the kit. Use those instead of the bearings, but be prepared to rebuild the diffs more often.

SHock oil weight really depends what surface you're running on but you can never go wrong starting with kit settings. One other thing to watch out for - if you're running a one way layshaft, the instructions tell you to put the pulleys on the wrong way round.

[loheswaran]

Just to confirm - they are the shims that are in the building instructions which go in the diff aren't they?

I am gonna use the kit silver - just not certain about the oil

I am only gonna use the cyclone outdoors - West London is gonna be my main track with 19 turn

thanks

[vroomtshh]

Yeh they're the shims in the instructions. I haven't run my cyclone outdoors yet so no idea what you should try shock oil wise.

[c0sie]

why shouldnt you run the bearings?

start off with pink/blue springs (harder fronts..cant remember which on is which), 45wt oil, 1.4 front roll bar, 1.2 rear roll bar, 1.5mm spaers under all 4 pivot blocks..etc

[brownpants]

Just to confirm - they are the shims that are in the building instructions which go in the diff aren't they?

I am gonna use the kit silver - just not certain about the oil

I am only gonna use the cyclone outdoors - West London is gonna be my main track with 19 turn

thanks

I race at West London and I use 40wt in the front and 30 to 35wt in the rear. Gold front springs and silver rear or go up to white on the front and gold on the rear depending on temperature.
HTH

Darren

[Chris Green]

One other thing to watch out for - if you're running a one way layshaft, the instructions tell you to put the pulleys on the wrong way round.

Could you confirm which part of the manual I should be looking at for this please mate?

My Cyclone is currently in the post, so I'll be building it up later this week hopefully. It is a standard black one, like Lohan's one.

So, if anyone has any more build tips, I'd be grateful!

Cheers.

[vroomtshh]

Page 12, steps 7 and 8 from memory. 7 is the layshaft buildup and 8 is fitting it in the car.

[Chris Green]

Right, I've got the manual in front of me. Which part is shown the wrong way round then? I'm not sure how a one-way is supposed to be put together.

Would it be best if I take a look at it when I've got the parts in front of me?

Thanks again.

[Matt Pocknell]

Page 12, steps 7 and 8 from memory. 7 is the layshaft buildup and 8 is fitting it in the car.

Wow thats one impressive memory!

Unless you read your manual in bed? :eek:

Matt :D

[Mark Stiles]

Right, I've got the manual in front of me. Which part is shown the wrong way round then? I'm not sure how a one-way is supposed to be put together.

Would it be best if I take a look at it when I've got the parts in front of me?

Thanks again.

basically the pulley on the centre layshaft that takes the front belt should spin forwards freely, but be locked when you try and spin it backwards. the other pulley on the centre layshaft (that takes the rear belt) should be locked in both directions.

[Chris Green]

Thanks Mark, that helps loads. :)

[TKohler]

just build the car as per the book, but if you are using the standard oil (i.e. 50wt) then use the 1.2mm copper roll bars instead of the 1.4mm silver ones

[Stew Noble]

http://www.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww13.ocn.ne.jp%2F%7Emira ge-j%2FAH%2Fsetting%2Fcyclone01.htm&langpair=ja%7Cen&hl=en&ie=UTF8

This build guide rules the day, no doubt.

If you follow that you'll be laughing.

[Chris Green]

That's a good guide. Thanks Stew!

I like the translation too. hehe....

"...While hearing Hirai hard, already one persisting! Still, the pupil does not have to be closed..."

[modracer]

hi stew i have read the guide but why does he put 2mm spacers under the shock pistons shafts at the rear only do you know?:confused:

[c0sie]

he puts em front and rear. in Japan they race on super high grip tarmac so reduce the shock shaft travel to help eliminate griproll etc etc combined with the super low ride heights they run..

or so I hear.

[modracer]

would the same principle work for carpet then?

[c0sie]

To be honest, I dont really understand the principle..

surely the downstops would restrict the amount of travel within the shocks anyways?

Im confused now lol

[Stew Noble]

Think that 2mm spacer is to do with the effect of 'pack' in the shock and where the piston sits in the oil, wouldnt worry too much about it.

When following the guide dont forget to do the wrist excersises, take the naps and eat some food just like Hara too haha

[c0sie]

I have an odd-ball theory on this...

Without the 2mm spacer does the shockshaft notch at the top of the shaft catch the o-ring???

Just something I think I may have noticed on my shafts.

Shafts....wrist exercises....oo-er

[Stew Noble]

Not when Hara is using the HB gold short shafts, theres no extra notch to catch.

[c0sie]

No idea then chap...stumped I am :S

[loheswaran]

I have tried a tip from the IRS website, and the blog of Mark PAyne on 1/12 cars.

this is to rub down your diff rings with 600 grit paper for 5 minutes or so. after this, give them a little clean.

then put some t cut on the ing, insert the balls, and turn the diff in your hand - ie hold the ooutdrives and move the pulley. Start of loose, and then tighten it up. work this for about another 5 - 8 minutes.

after this clean out the diff, grease it up, and tighten up the diff so that it has some action, hold a wheel and feed some power at about quarter throttle for about 30 seconds. Do it holding the other wheel too. tighten up the diff, and do the same for another 30 seconds - repeat this process for another 4 tightens.

I found that by doing this the diff I have is super smooth, can be run very loose, and no slip too:D

The scare stories on the dodgy diff screw have not afflicted me yet, but, touch wood, I hope will not either - I did one meeeting. Please note that I also do this with my 1/12 car, and that gives no bother, and is similarly smooth.:cool:

[Matt Pocknell]

I have to admit ive never tried this in touring, although i do with 1/12.

I broke a coated diff-screw in my first meeting with the cyclone, and im not a scrappy driver! However, I replaced it with a standard pro4 bolt and has been good...managed to get one STCC meeting out of it so far! I also heard that if you use less grease on the thrust race assembly then it reduces the chances of breaking, as too much grease can create heat and eventually snap the bolt. Not sure how true it is, but I now use minimal grease anyway.

Matt

[c0sie]

There is no need to do the T-cut trick with the cyclone diff. Ace in 12th, but no point in TC.

Build your diff up and tighten it up so you get minimal diff action. Insert into your car and get your car fully ready but leave the motor unsoldered.

Attach a motor runner at 1.5v-2v to your motor and spin it up.
Gently slow down and grab one wheel for 20 seconds, then let it spin free, and do this to the other wheel...
Then tighten the diff up a touch and repeat.
Repeat all this till the diff is as tight as you want it to be,