cyclone s

[snakes1989]

hi i treated my self to a new cyclone s i bought a basic 27t motor with a standard esc just to get me started but i wanna upgrade as much as posible but for the time been i just want that basic upgrades that will make the car faster?

[snakes1989]

does it reali take this long to get a answer?

[Garry]

If you want to upgrade everything, 3Racing to a complete range of purple alloy and carbon fibre to trick it out.

On a box-stock car, I'd get a front spool (or one-way, depends on your track), CVD's and the alloy centre pullies/layshaft/spur gear mount from the other Cyclones in the range.

[snakes1989]

i thought i would give you a bit of a update i been building my car(hot bodies cyclone s) for about 1 -1/2 weeks now doing a bit each day. The build is going ok the instructions arnt very clear you have to do a bit of problem solving but if you a like a chalenge like me then this is the kit for you.

[spannersatcx]

hi i treated my self to a new cyclone s i bought a basic 27t motor with a standard esc just to get me started but i wanna upgrade as much as posible but for the time been i just want that basic upgrades that will make the car faster?


Wouldn't it of been cheaper to buy the 'normal' cyclone?

[Adam Skelding]

Hi.
I run the HB Cyclone S at the local club to HPI @ 'Weston'.
I run in the 19T class and get pretty close to the top 3 who all run full spec cars..

If you are going to upgrade the following order would be the best...
this is the order I did it in..
Front UJ's. More consistent steering at increased lock and also better efficiency.
Rear UJ's.
Fixed Layshaft.
Spool: On Carpet this is much easier to drive for my 'Buggy' driving... I need brakes.

Shock Towers: In high grip the shock towers do tend to give a little. which you may or may not feel in your driving...(Depends on your driving standard) This is not meant in detriment, just a honest comment...
To put the carbon towers on you do need to upgrade to the alloy top bulkheads, so this does become the most expensive stage....

HB Alloy Shocks:

This is as far as my Cyclone S will get up-graded. It's good enough for club racing against the 2-300+ pound mob.

Adz

[TKohler]

surely all that NEEDS to be done is lightweight transmission components and front drive type if necessary... if id hav bought the cyclone s id hav done just that... and to be honest i wish i had as replacing the aluminium stuff is irritating, 35quid to replace ONE BROKEN MOUNT for the sock tower, as an entire diff housing assembly must be bought to replace it... not impressed

[twinslat]

I’ve just ordered a Cyclone S. I’m going to build it with whatever bits of my Pro4 that will fit. Anyone had any experience of this?

[Garry]

Yes, I've listed the bits from a Pro 4 that I've got on my Cyclone in this thread:

http://www.rcracechat.com/vb/showthread.php?t=28279

One thing though, if you use the CVD's from a Pro 4, you need to dremel the diff outdrive slots longer to allow the pin in the end to move in under suspension compression.

[twinslat]

I cant get the standard Pro4 drive shafts in. The dog bone end is tight in the diff and overall the shafts seem too long.

[modracer]

if you are thinking of upgrading your cyclone s try brock models for cheap cyclone/pro 4 bits. I was fortunate enough to get a hara cyclone that i swopped for a tamiya ta 05 and the only things i have had to change are the shock collars to the pro 4 type with the O ring in to stop the settings changing, a EDIT fixed layshaft for it to spin up quicker, a auliminium full diff these are great alot better than the standard cyclone s plastic one.
one of my friends has a plastic one in his i would definatly recomend you get one of these i have two in my hara 1 front and 1 rear as this suits my driving style. the ony other things that i will be changing will be the shock towers to the moorespeed one's for the xtra adjustment and the ti nitride bits from EDIT as and when they are in stock.:D

[twinslat]

I got the shafts in. You need to take the foam inserts out of the outdrives.
Doh!:eek: