wheel hexes

[Martin P]

Are there any clamp wheel hexes (i think thats wat there caled).
Are they really necesary, i havent sen any but can you jus use ones from a different car???

These are for the mission.

The "hop up" purple alloy ones are much better as they have a better way of holding them on, I think the losi uses the clamp hexes, I dont see why they wouldnt fit on it. Worth a try.

[adyb]

I don't know how often you need to replace the purple ones, but they have so much 'movement' in them now, that I have changed back to the orignal ones with no problems.
Do they make a difference or just look good.

You dont ever need to replace them, I had mine for a year now with no problems what so ever, they are well worth the money.

[colin_jackson]

the clamp wheel hexes are for the losi. they will not fit your schumacher as the losi's drive shaft is sized in imperial where the mission is in metric (will not fit).

the main aim is that if you lose a wheel nut during a race and your wheel falls of you will not lose your pin and hex etc.

the schmacher purple hexs are good, but they are slightly more heavy than the standered plastic ones so your rotating mass will be increased!

[MattW]

I use the alloy ones on my cars. The only problem that can happen is the little outer ridge on the back. That can break off. Personally i don't space mine like the manuel so the issue isn't relevent.

[damo]

the clamp wheel hexes are for the losi. they will not fit your schumacher as the losi's drive shaft is sized in imperial where the mission is in metric (will not fit).

the main aim is that if you lose a wheel nut during a race and your wheel falls of you will not lose your pin and hex etc.

the schmacher purple hexs are good, but they are slightly more heavy than the standered plastic ones so your rotating mass will be increased!

hpi do lovely purple clamps, associated do blue ones as do yoke and rc lab.....

The HPI hexes should fit the mission, im shure they are both metric?

[MattW]

HPI should be metric. Not sure if tehy would fit as i haven't ever tried any. The only problem could be any offset in them. They may well change the car width.

Would be best to stick with the schumacher ones as they are made for the car.

[colin_jackson]

yeh i agree they are good enough ;)

[marcoski]

The real best bit about clamp style hexes, is that you can do the wheel nuts up as tight as you like without that force being transfered to the pin and ultimately preloading the bearings as the plastic hex deforms under the force. One of the best hop ups ever made.

Never realy thought about it like that, I wondered why sometimes when I striped the car that the little pins inside had snaped in half.

[damo]

there is no offset in hpi clamps...used to run an sst with hpi clamps on to no effect it was fine exactley the same size as the schuey ones....

The only reasons to use them would be because of what Marcus said, and if you need to change a hub in a hurry it would be easyer to undo a screw then to take an oring off,push the pin out and then slide it off the thread!!!

[marcoski]

Just to note, you still use the pin with the clamp hexes to transmit the drive. Also, I used shims rather than the oring to set the float, the bearings run freer with out any preload.

[Remo]

Mark, you wont snap the pins if you dont lean on your wrench!!! it should be just tight and let the nylon lock do the job of securing the nut.... there is no point using great force, if you have to then your lock nuts are worn... thats for whatever hex you use... you can still lose a wheel even if you hex stays on... :)

I only agree with the clamp or grub screw type hexes for one thing: they stop you from losing the hex and pin if your wheel comes off... The pin's job is to drive the wheel forward... not designed to take any other pressure from the side, its the lip on the hex that rests on the inner race of the ball bearing and provided you have the bearing spacers fitted, you will be fine, but thats the theory anyway... but like Marcus, I leave it with a bit of float (hence resting on the pin) to free up the axle more but that can generate more slop if there is too much float.... (what I do is I lose the shim but keep the concave washer... :) )

What I used to do is tighten the nuts up pretty tight because the amount of races I have pulled out of because of a wheel nut falling off is unbelievable...and yes I do use wheel nuts with the nylon on it to prevent it from falling off but this does no good, can you suggest why this happens?

[marcoski]

If the plastic hexes are worn, there will be a little play before the hex bites the wheel and the pin, slightly loosening the nut as this happens, ultimately the nut will come off. Clamp hexes eliminate every issue you can have with wheels coming off, pins breaking and excessive preload on the bearings, they have always been in my view the first and most advantageous hop up you can get your hands on.

I have the puple hop-up wheel hexes (schumacher ones). I have seen people do there wheels up tight and then loosen them about half a turn, is this to prevent presure being put on the bearings?

[marcoski]

Its as much to do with that as it is to bed the pin into the hex. Are they clamp hexes or just alloy versions of the plastic hex. Clamp hexes are far superior, plain alloy hexes still suffer from the same ills as do plastic ones. Plus, being hard, they will cut the pins in half if you do the wheels up really tight, whereas clamp hexes wont.

[Remo]

Also many axle thread tapers at the end and this is where the nylon loc bit needs to bit properly.... the problem is some wheel face are thicker and if the axle is on the short side it leaves very little for the loc to lock on to... and with plastic hexes they will rock and work lose easily as Marcus said... I have often use Loctite liquid thread lock (blue one is thinner) and apply a very small (I mean small) amount to the tip of the thread to secure the wheel nut (in important races)... it also normally leaves enough residue to work for several wheel changes (more like 10) before I need re-applying... but if you do that dont put too much or you will have a hard time getting your wheel off (and use a proper wheen wrench not the Tamiya tool!).

The schumacher purple hexes arn't just copys of the plastic ones, I think they have a much better way which it got on to the car, with the plastic ones somtimes the wheel strugles to fit on the hex and when you pull your wheel off the hex usualy comes with it, the alloy ones have the pin actualy going through the hex which holds it on, if you see one you will know what i mean.

[marcoski]

Yep I know exactly what you mean, but non the less they still have their flaws.

[MattW]

The most common reason for wheels coming loose is alloy wheel nuts.

That might explain it, I have the purple alloy ones, well i say have but should say did as i have lost 3of them and only have one left, lol.

[MattW]

If you use alloy ones you have to be prepared to replace them very regularily. The std steel ones with supplies washers will last ages.

Funnily enough I have only brought one set of alloy nuts and 4of them lasted me a year, its just recently that I have lost them, only got them cos the look nice ;D