View Full Version : Losi xxx4g+ cvd vs dogbone?
CrazyCano
04-12-2003, 07:54 PM
Hi,
I have been told that there is a differnce in handling between using the cvd driveshafts and a standard uj (and also between steel and aluminium!). Anyone know what the difference is to the car and why?
Cheers
Alex
Alex,
I have been speaking with a number of top drivers about this and the common answer is;
Using dog bones in the rear will give you more side bite in the corners. This is because they dont rotate as well as CVD's with a side loading. There is no loss of performance in a straight line.
Personally, I run CVD's all round as I dont think I would notice much difference by switching to dog bones in the rear.
If someone else has a better explanation, please let me know so I can try and understand it better. I'm looking in your direction Doughty ;D ;D
Doughty
05-12-2003, 08:55 AM
I will have to consult my notes as it is quite complicated.
you have CVD Vs Dogbones
you also have Alu Vs Steel
and you also have Plastic Vs Steel outdirves
not to mention sliders, and Roller bearing dogbones
all of these can have god knows how many permitations to give more this or more that ::)
I will try and post my information later on but to be honest, run what you have in your car at the moment and change something else to get what you want.
CrazyCano
05-12-2003, 02:09 PM
Thanks guys thats helpful, it seams that all the hop -ups have a good and a bad side e.g. graphite chassis, i have heard some drivers prefer to use a platic one! any idea why this is and what the difference is, cheers
Alex
Doughty
05-12-2003, 02:14 PM
plastic chassis flex more, it would give you more grip from this flex, would work well on dirt and such.
I have found it best to be happy with your car. then change things that are suposed to be changed like shock, camber links, springs.
I think having changing a chassis as a setup option crazy. maybe if I know it will be a slippy dirt track coming to the meeting with a plastic chassis all ready on, that is quite possible, but changing during a meeting, I dont really see that.
CrazyCano
05-12-2003, 04:13 PM
Chris,
Thanks for the info, quick question tho... where do you put your transponder in the xxx4, its a bit tight for space, i was thinking of putting through the roof of the shell. I would ideally like to keep it internal tho!
Cheers
Alex
Doughty
05-12-2003, 04:27 PM
I run my speedo behined the motor, reciever on its side in front of the motor and behined the servo and the transponder next to that mounted on a lexan bracket off of the servo.
just be warned though that some transponders close to your reciever can cause interfearance. see how it goes.
the roof would be the best option to keep it away from rec
richard_cree
05-12-2003, 05:44 PM
I have to be honest and say I can't tell the difference between CVD and dogbone's. Normally I've got a decent feel for these things, but I've never experienced a big difference.
However the difference between steel and ally driveshafts, and also steel and plastic outdrives is very significant but I've seen cars go quick with pretty much every combination of these parts.
My preference is steel dogbones and outdrives in 2wd, and ally driveshafts with plastic outdrives on 4wd.
CVD's are fine, but wear and break easier, hence I run dogbones.
Personally I prefer the plastic chassis on 2wd and graphite on 4wd.
nitro-head
05-12-2003, 08:43 PM
i have the transponder on the roof too.
i have seen a lot have it on the wing, i wouldn't recomend that, one knock the from the behind, or if u land it arse first off a jump than u could either break the transponder, or it may fall out and cause u to loose the race or what ever.
either do what chris said or just mount it in the roof.
DA_cookie_monstA
05-12-2003, 08:53 PM
The reason why people mount the transponder on the rear wing is cause originally, thats where EVERYONE was told to mount them, if they were mounted anywhere else, then lost laps were your fault, not race controls.
Thats why, no other reason, and it is also easier for scrutineering to check too.
Doughty
14-12-2003, 06:07 PM
OK, Finally found the e-mail...
The information is from Todd Hodge, a Losi Factory driver in the US
First steel diff vs. plastic diff. You will have more friction with the steel diff rather than the plastic. This friction equals traction. Normally on low to medium bite tracks I will run steel diffs in 2wd. If the traction is super high I will put a plastic diff in to eliminate some of the traction. As for what each drive shaft does with plastic or steel diff I think it is a relativeley the same.
Steel Dogbones-I feel have less bind so they have more steering through the center of the turn and will go through bumps better. The reason they have less bind is because the point where the joint is is plastic on a steel pin.
Aluminum Dogbones-Same as steel but problem a bit more accelleration since they are lighter.
Steel CVD's-I think for the first few runs they have a freer feel than dogbones. But once they are run a few times they create more friction than dogbone making the car want to initiate the turn faster and has more traction through the whole turn. They also square up better on corner exit.
Aluminum CVD-Same as steel but problem a bit more accelleration since they are lighter.
Sliders-Good through bumps less traction of all drive shafts.
Roller Dogbone-Has less traction than cvd's and dogbones but will not get stuck in the turn like a slider.
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