B4 Set ups

[Danny McGee]

I thought it would be a good idea (as the buggy seasons not that far away) to get an idea on the setup people are using on the b4.

I may as well start (one quick q. does anyone know how if i can attach a set up sheet?)

This is a pretty good carpet setup.

Front tower Hole No. 1
Front Wishbone No. 0
Camber Link 1 - b with one little gold washer
30 Degree front blocks

40 weight front
Piston No. 2
Blue Spring
No limiters

Rear tower Hole No. 2
Rear Wishbone No. 0
Camber link 1 - b with two gold washer
1 degree anti squat
short wheel base

30 weight rear
Piston No.1
Silver Spring
No limiters

Tyres - Scu Yellow Mini pins with losi hard rear foam and losi soft from (cut in half)

Batteries - back
78 spur

I think thats about it.

[Jason Potter]

what sort of setup are you thinking for grass??
I have built mine totaly to kit at the moment, except I forgot the limiters in the back shocks!

I need to ask Butch what he ran at Worcester as the car felt good when I raced it.

is the kit 30degree front blocks or 25??

you can attach a sheet, but you would need to host it and use the Instert hyperlink button. People can click on it to open it then rather than make every one view it :)

[Danny McGee]

Standard on the kit are 25 degree but most of the team have been using 30's all year.

Erm i was just thinking all setups!!!!!!! It would be nice to see what people have been using.

[BC Rog]

Found truely an amazing change in the feel of the car by going to #3 pistons in the front (usually 30wt oil .... 25wt at Tivvy) and making shock shafts that are 3.5mm longer than the stock ones for the rear. A similar change can be gained by unscrewing the rear shock lower mounts 2mm and shiming the front shafts 1.8mm internally.

The only problem with the latter is that it obviously means you loose a bit on very rough surfaces.

The car is now drivable (for my style) rather than an unmanagable piece of S$*! ...... give it a go.

Personally I'm not taking the in-line axles off but be warned ... use them with 30° blocks and make sure you correct for the bump steer!!! Mounting mine forward (same as originals .. not as directed with them) and using the rear set of hoels on the bellcranks everywhere except Tivvy.

Normally medium wheel base (short at Tivvy) and longest link at rear (mid on hub at Tivvy) with 2 washers under the inner ball stud. Longest link at the front, washer under the inner ball stud.

Bats front.

Front 30wt (25 Tivvy) #3's arms level with silver springs ... inner on tower and whishbone.

Rear 30wt (25 Tivvy) #1's bones level with green springs

Finally happy with the car .... took a whole season though.

Rog

[BC Rog]

Forgot to mention why I have made the changes .......

Basically it seems that there is not enough droop at the rear to cope with the front ends side to side wieght transfer, result inside rear wheel becomes unloaded and around she goes!!!

The change to teh shock shaft length allowes me to leave the front with plenty of droop to deal with the ruts etc whilst not letting the rear let go.

Rog

[Hywel]

milzys b4 tivvy setup
front
no2pistons
30wt oil ballistic
blue springs to start then green
middle hole on shock tower
inside hole on wishbone
inside on shocktower pick up
outside onhublink pickup [longest link]
no lead in front
heavy duty servo spring
2bump steer washers
no washers under any link ball studs

rear
no1 piston
20wt oil in morning 25wt mid morning [ballistic]
silver springs
outside hole on rear tower
outside onwishbone
inside on rear hub
outside on rear bulkhead [short link]
3deg anti squat
no washrs under any link studs

5g lead on battery strap
5g lead under rear shock tower
5g on rear bumper above motor
cells in rear

motor lrp 12x2 or reedy pi 12x2
78/24 or22
m.tronik m3 or cirrus punch 5
30% throttle curve on hand set
clutch backed right off

[Hywel]

so far its worked with the track as it is
proline ribs and step pins used at last 2 meetings

[Chrislong]

Basically, I played with setups but always found kit setup with minor changes works best.... No toe in on front, 1 degree of uncle-squat, 1 degree of castor all around, blue springs on front and silver on rear.

For indoors, just moved rear shocks out on the wishbone and dropped ride height slightly..... truely the muttz nuttz on carpet, faster than the tourers on same track at Southport!

Are people running the front wheels wide, or cutting them and using them narrow?

Chris

[Phil C]

UNCLE-SQUAT???????? ROFLOL :D

[Stew Noble]

must have ment AUNTIE-squat :D
ROFLOL

[Danny McGee]

Another carpet set up, strangely enough the one I put above was really bad this time, strange because it was the same place ,carpet. Anyway what I used this time stopped the back end from sliding.

Front

Tower position 1 to wishbone 0
Camber link 1 -B
1 Deg camber
30 deg caster

40-weight oil
2 piston
Blue spring
No limiters

Rear

Tower position 2 - 0
Camber link 1 - C (this was the major thing that really helped
35-weight oil
Blue spring
No limiters

Yellow minis all round, firm rear foam. Losi soft cut in half front.

30 g's weight under rear bulkhead, slipper loose ish

A few notes

The longest rear link gave the car max rear traction, short wheelbase make the car better going into the corner but does not affect the power out the corner. Rear shocks laid in make the car slip in the middle of the corner. Weight in the front makes the car dive going into corners but helps steering on power.

Hope some of this helps

;)

[webba]

Danny
I tried your set-up last night but with kit springs and yellow minispikes (minipins on order) and it was awsome. Even with the minispikes it stuck to the track like a train. Nice one ;D

[Danny McGee]

Glad i could help!!

I should have some more setups soon. When the weather gets a bit better and i can go testing for the nationals.

[webba]

Cool, i'll need a good grass set-up soon.!! lol ;D

[webba]

Danny
I ran that set-up on Sunday at the WRCA indoor and up to round 4 of qualifying i was holding TQ (something i have never done). Unfortunatly, a combination of my motor going off and Mr Summerhayes pulling out an awsome run, saw me lose TQ in round 4. And as usual, it all went to S**t in the final. But that setup was fantastic.

[Danny McGee]

Cool, sorry to hear about the finals being a nightmare but at least you up the front.

Glad to hear the setup worked, i should be racing the B4 this weekend in Watford (night out permitting) so ill be able to post another one monday (thats if i make changes)

Have Fun!

[Richard Lowe]

What I've ended up with....

Front shocks
Silver springs
40w AE oil, No2 piston
No limiters
Mounting position, 2 I

Front Suspention
Camber link, 1 A with std 0.030" washer under inside
1deg negative camber, 0 toe
25deg caster blocks
In-line axles
0.030" bumpsteer washer

Rear shocks
Silver springs
35w AE oil, No1 piston
No limiters
Mounting position, 2 I

Rear Suspention
Camber link, 2 B with 0.030" washer under inside
2deg negative camber, 1.5deg antisquat
Short wheelbase

As much as is physically possible (30g ;) ) of lead under the rear bulkhead.

[Kev Cooke]

Seeing as the outdoor season is going to start again soon, does anyone know of a good B4 set up for the outdoor track at Southport?

[burgie]

Kev - speak to Chris Evison on sunday. If anyone can set a B4 up for southport, it's him.....you need to ask a good club member who knows the track for a good setup as opposed to the "wider audience" that only visit the track once a year

[mr4man]

a b4 grass setup that i used on sunday at crawley.
front:
2 on tower, i on wishbone
1 ineer and b outer for camber link
1 washer 1.5 deg camber 25deg blocks
30 wt oil no.2 piston blue spring
scum green 2 row stud
rear:
2 on tower i on wishbone
1 inner and b outer for camber link
no washer 1.5 deg camber
1 deg anti squat, med wheelbase
25wt oil no1 piston silver spring.
schum yellow full spike
battery placed forward.

hope this helps car was good enough for me to be in b final
due to it beinng very wet most people were running yoko tr32 rear tyres and green schu mini spikes on front.
as didnt have any could nt try them.
richard