fireblade evo

[mr4man]

i know this is not the best 2wd at mo but what mods did everyone do to make em better?
has got slipper and carbon chassis.
just wanna whip sum cripplex arse!
mossy do you know what the silver tamiya springs you used on the front of your blade are off?
cheers rich

[DA_cookie_monstA]

For the Blade, no need to carbon fibre it, although it IS nice. Tune ups are....

1) Slipper Clutch
2) Titanium Hinge Pins
3) Titanium Turnbuckles
4) Alloy Shock Bodies
5) Sprint set (front & Rear)
6) Different rear toe in adjustment (hubs)
7) Alloy Idler gear if you don't have one.
8) Tungsten Carbide diff balls if you don't have them.

Thats it, if you WANT to go for Carbon Fibre, it will make it a little lighter and a little stiffer, but not a VERY big gain to be honest.

[warr]

The carbon chassis moves the cells further back than the original chassis. Most team drivers actually preferred the original chassis at the time.

I changed to outboard toe in on mine (different caster blocks plus hubs.)

Titanium hinge pins are essential.

If the car has 15 degree sacs than you really need to get the 0 degree option. (This was standard in some kits but not others.)

Most important thing (especially if you run outboard toe in) is to make sure the wheelbase is set so the driveshafts are as near parrallel to the diff outdrives as possible.

The blades on the driveshafts do not last very long with a decent motor and running too long (or short) a wheelbase makes this problem worse. The blades should be inspected after every run and replaced when they start to wear (3 meetings).

If the blade breaks then you loose an outdrive and often the driveshaft too so keep an eye on them.

I wouldn't recommend putting too powerful motor in the car as even new blades will break occasionally.

[Mossy]

The springs I run on the front are in between a Red and a Grey. They allow the car to work more on the front end, in my opinion. Sometimes when I run the grey, the car feels to stiff. With regards to the blades on the drive shafts, never found the wheelbase has an effect on their wear. For the sakes of two bits of plastic wearing, dont see the point in makin do with the wheel base being wrong. I ran both the carbon chassis and the standard one at the euros, and found the carbon one to be more responsive, and helped the car fly better, despite it only being a little lighter. With the cells being a little further back, the weight distribution is better.

Oh and the 15 degree sacs, I always run those on the front end. Gives the car alot more steering, which I like.

[warr]

I perhaps should have been clearer in my original comment about blades and wheelbase. It is really only a problem with outboard toe in.

If you change the toe in to outboard toe in you add about 6 mm to the wheelbase. If you then space the wheels back you have a wheelbase 8mm longer than standard and have made a considerable difference to the driveshaft angle and resultant stress on the blades. (I have a large collection of damaged outdrives gained through using this setting.)

I found that by running on short wheelbase with the outboard hubs the blades lasted over twice as long and didn't nuke themselves nearly as often.

The wheelbase adjustment is not an issue if you are running inboard toe in.


mr4man: If you want springs between red and grey for the front then try associated silver's