Been out of the loop for a couple of years

[rwapage]

Ok the last time I raced was when I was about 15/16 so I have a bit of catching up to do on whats hot and whats not. I used to race in the mod touring car class, and then switched over to the 27T stock class (it was far cheaper for me at the time).

I first raced the trusted TL01, put a few upgrades on it, and later moved on to a Yokomo MR4TC. I raced this car for a good Two years and it served me well. The problem is, I opened up my kit box and found that most of the internals had seized and were rusted. I must have put it away damp!

Since finding this out I decided to move all the 'good' stuff over to the TL01 i.e. the electrics (spedo), tyres, batteries and shell. I removed the shocks so its held up by some rather rigid springs!

I’m wondering if I still have any chance in racing this car at some of the WLRC meetings im planning on going to, or will I simply end up getting lapped 10 times?

Specs:- Tamiya TL01: Ball raced, no shocks, standard servos, reedy 27T stock motor, vega speedo (£70 7 years ago), 2400 orion batteries fast charger (not clockwork), couple of set of tyres - pit shimizmo 30s, 25s, pit wets, some super soft tyres for freezing weather, standard tamiya treaded (quite soft) and various shells - Audi A4, Sallean S7 wide body.


So now you have seen what I’ve got - any ideas on what to do with it, any of it useable or do i have to start from scratch again.

Just want a medium spec car, something which I can make a few adjustments to, but will still run ok out of the box, or after I have finished building it.

Thanks for any help you can give me,

Rich

[Skiddins]

I don't know about the car, but the rest will probably get you going if nothing else.

You certainly need to do something about the shocks!

Sort those, then come down and see how it goes.

Skiddins

[Debbie]

Hi Ya

Like Damian I can't comment on the TL01 but as for the rest a lot depends on their condition.

2400's will be ok for you to start with in 27t providing they are in good condition but only if they have been looked after so check them out first, you typically need 3 sets and a reasonable charger capable of a min 5 amp charge.

Don't worry about the Vega Esc providing it still works ok it will be fine (to start with).

With your motor it may be an idea to get it skimmed, cleaned up and a new set of brushes in too.

Get some shocks !

The most populer tyre's at WLRC seem to be CS22's / 27's and Pitshimitsu's

Providing your shells are still "Commercially available" they will be fine but check the dimension with the BRCA rules, (you can find them on the www.wlrc.co.uk under club rules)

The best thing you can do is to come down and chat with other drivers, ask about as people are always selling off kit that they have upgarded and you can pick up a real bargan and that goes for Cars too !

Don't worry about being lapped, come along and get a feel for racing again ! :D

See you there !

[Adder]

Try it and see! My speedo + charger are both C1999 vintage and still work OK, so no worries there.

Your cells will be fine for duration and will do you to start with, however you may find that they're not as fast as the latest GP NiMh's once you get to grips with the track.

You won't need the extra capacity for stock or superstock, but my experience was that while NiCd's and 3000 NiMh's were similar in performance, 3300 and 3700 NiMh's have a bit more punch in comparison.

Welcome back and have fun :D

[rwapage]

Well, I went to a race meeting about one year ago when I thought I would be getting back into it, but havent been since. I didnt race just spectated for a few heats and saw the finals.

Ive decided that the TLO1 is not ancient, and I at least need to upgrade to latest Tamiya if nothing else.

Ive been reading a lot about brushless motors -are they any good? Do they actually last longer, with smoother power application? Ive read all the hype, but I want to know what real people actually make of them.

[Skiddins]

Have a read through the Brushless thread in the WLRC forum section, this very topic is a hot debate.
At present some drivers use brushless in the dry, brushed in the wet.

Skiddins

[Steve Cann]

Best way to answer this is... Two 'lads' who have been away from racing for a while (7+ years) found their stuff in the loft recently... Rather than throw it away they came along and 'played' last Sunday... Used kit how they found it and got through day OK... (Was a bit of a struggle--weather intervened etc) But as I see James has been asking a question or two on forum I'm assuming they'll be back... Might have to spend a quid or two... But by using what they had answered wether 'spark' was still there...

As long as what you have goes forward suggest you have a day out with us SOON.... I'm sure you'll enjoy it and decide from that what you need to invest in...

HTH

[rwapage]

Ah thanks, will probably make my way down over the Easter holidays, and see how I get on. I just hope it doesnt rain, because I dont have anything to water proof a TLO1 lol.

By the way I get the impression TLO1 is quite old school - am I right?

[Remo]

TL-01 is dated but what you have will get you going... you definitely need some shocks thou. Tyres wise dont bother with the Tamiya radials or you will be lapped 20 times... lol! Just bring what you have...! You can get a set of Tamiya plastic oil shocks for around £20 or less.

Seriously thou, come down and have some fun and talk to a few of us and we'll be able to answer many of your questions. Club racing doesnt need big bucks to have lots of fun (I'm not saying it dont cost money), but many seem to initially get overwhelmed with the complexity of their cars and can feel a bit lost. So to begin again with a simple car is probably the way to go... I raced a sub £60 TT-01 (TL-01 successor) over winter and with the most basic hop ups like brearings, oil shocks, shell and a diet, it became a very capable car :eek:

See you track side...!

[rwapage]

Yeh I think I will be investing in a pair of shocks - last time I tried practicing it was all a bit hairy. I had lots of steering but it was very twitchy!

Ive never driven my TLO1 fast enough on track for tyres to be an issue, but I will just slap on some soft pit shiz which should get me going.

There was only one problem I had when racing the TL - the servo mounts used to shift when going round corners, kept rolling it which was very annoying. I did fix it, but just wanted to know if others ever had this problem.

Oh yeh one final thing, which shell is cooler - Sallen S7 wide body or a DB9 Vanquish?

[Remo]

Use the Saleen...
I would suggest to run a lower ride height if you can. With my Tamiya the only way to do it was to use the Super Mini CVA shocks... not sure if thats ok with the TL-01.... or run some shorter springs... I run the Yokomo SD ones.
I always carry some with me so you are welcome to try them if you like.