View Full Version : Xray T1 Raycer - help!
B_Final_Bob
10-11-2003, 03:27 PM
Hi
I am looking to replace my tired XXX-S with a new Xray T1 Raycer and I have a few questions...
1. Apart from the lower ratio layshaft pulleys, is there anything else you really need to buy for the car?
2. After reading through some of the threads on the Xray bit I have heard about some modified wishbones - when can I buy them/ how can I make some?
3. Which suspension setup (double wishbone or C-hub) does the raycer come with?
Thanks, Liam
nitro-head
10-11-2003, 03:33 PM
the raycer shares the same c hub set up as teh evo 2 (i have been told and read somewhere) so i think you may be able to convert to double wishbone, but the car comes with c hubs.
i don't have one my self, but at one point i looked very deeply in getting one but choose the yoko ssg sd instead :D :D :D
but i wouldn't fault the raycey, looks a very very good car.
B_Final_Bob
10-11-2003, 03:38 PM
Thanks mate!
I am stuck between the Xray and the Yoke, but the Yoke is quite expensive and from what I have seen it is very fragile too. Very fast though! After I drove an Xray, I really liked it, super smooth and very easy to drive fast - and that was on the kit setup!
Jonny Aird
10-11-2003, 03:46 PM
1. The rear belt is good for stock and the front spring steel wheel axles. As the standard front wheel axle may get pressed out in crashes. You will have to disassemble the wheel and axle and knock the drive shaft out with a hammer.
2. They will be out when the T1M comes out. Christmas hopefully.
3. The raycer comes with the C-hub set which most drivers prefer.
ldebackker
10-11-2003, 06:25 PM
you really need to buy the suspension set, without that one, you can't set up your car properly.
I also bought the one way diff with it, but it depends on the circuit you race on if that is any good.
Doomanic
10-11-2003, 07:02 PM
Lars, what suspension set?
I run my Raycer box stock and it's fine.
SMTCA Focal Point
10-11-2003, 07:15 PM
If you are refering to the HUDY set up kit, no you dont have to buy it for the RAYCER kit. A simple camber gauge is all you need.
Matt Brewerton
10-11-2003, 07:50 PM
I think he measn the spring tuning kit.
Matt
SMTCA Focal Point
11-11-2003, 12:36 AM
the raycer shares the same c hub set up as teh evo 2 (i have been told and read somewhere) so i think you may be able to convert to double wishbone, but the car comes with c hubs.
i don't have one my self, but at one point i looked very deeply in getting one but choose the yoko ssg sd instead :D :D :D
but i wouldn't fault the raycey, looks a very very good car.
There is no need to buy the original style suspension. You dont need it. The C hub works well on any track. The original was as good on some but worse on others. It isnt better or worse, just different. Most drivers prefer the C hub set up and never go back to the original pivot ball suspension.
Petermarkphillips
11-11-2003, 10:47 AM
Nothing else you really need. shorter wishbones wont be available for a few weeks, and there's talk of a conversion kit. Id wait and see. Bog standard with these wishbones the car will be awesome, compared to any other bog standard car.
Xray Griff
11-11-2003, 01:54 PM
I would agree with the suggestion of replacing the Wheel Axle Front - Integrated Hex Hub - Hard Coated is replaced with the Spring steel as mentioned above (305210 replace with 305215). If you are really heavy on the crashes then they do need to be hammered out.
The Low ratio pulley is a good idea as a replacement for the original when it wears out.
If you had any of the T1 or T1Evo2s I would have also have said get Front upper suspension holders replaced with the alu ones (302060 replace with 302065), but this does not effect you.
SMTCA Focal Point
11-11-2003, 02:08 PM
The Low ratio pulley is a good idea as a replacement for the original when it wears out.
Like, when did anything on an xray ever wear out, I'm still on my first set of belts and the car is two years old. I have never yet replaced anything due to wear.. I normally break bits first..
Ben you can add this to the best bits of the Xray, longevity..
Xray Griff
11-11-2003, 02:17 PM
Must be something we are doing wrong, racing it too hard! The fixed pulley 16T (305570) has worn. It is a cheap part to replace, but the low ratio seemed the best idea. If the 16 T does wear out it is a good idea to replace the belt at the same time.
Replacing the pulley set with the low ratio needs a new lay shaft too.
B_Final_Bob
11-11-2003, 04:03 PM
Must be something we are doing wrong, racing it too hard! The fixed pulley 16T (305570) has worn. It is a cheap part to replace, but the low ratio seemed the best idea. If the 16 T does wear out it is a good idea to replace the belt at the same time.
Replacing the pulley set with the low ratio needs a new lay shaft too.
What's the RRP on the low ratio pulleys and layshaft?
university_dave
11-11-2003, 10:57 PM
If you race indoors then I would actually advise against the low ratio pulleys. Reason being that even with a 96 tooth spur gear the motor rubs against the belts. I've had to go back to the original pulleys to solve this problem, I'll be saving the low-ratio set for when I go outdoors again next year.
Petermarkphillips
12-11-2003, 12:09 AM
If you race indoors then I would actually advise against the low ratio pulleys. Reason being that even with a 96 tooth spur gear the motor rubs against the belts. I've had to go back to the original pulleys to solve this problem, I'll be saving the low-ratio set for when I go outdoors again next year.
Is the tension in your belts right????
SMTCA Focal Point
12-11-2003, 01:45 AM
It isnt a problem having your motor rubbing on the belt, it doesnt cause enough drag for it to be an issue.
Again I would ask, why not just fit a larger spur gear, that would move the motor lower in the car and cure the problem completely, unless you didnt have enough pinions of course to get the correct ratio.... ???
university_dave
12-11-2003, 12:42 PM
Belts were the correct tension. I'm not aware that anyone makes a 48dp spur larger than 96 teeth, and even with that I'm scraping the bottom of my range of pinions.
I changed back (to the kit pulleys) during a meeting last night as an attempted cure for a ridiculously slow car, and it worked. No more motor rubbing on belts and my car actually had some pace. I'll be sticking with the kit pulleys indoors from now on.
scratcher
12-11-2003, 09:23 PM
Mine goes ok and you built it uni
university_dave
13-11-2003, 10:32 AM
Yours has the original pulleys on it, so no problems there for you. 8)
alienwerx
13-11-2003, 01:07 PM
Hi
Out of the box the Raycer is fantastic and I haven't changed much to the stock settings, a if I do it maybe a change of spring or moving the tops of the rear shocks in. I did have a problem with one of my diffs being a little stiff. I replaced the rings, balls and thrust races and the problem was still the same. I put the lower ratio pulleys in and BINGO!!!. I have the smoothist diffs in the world. The belts have slackend off abit after fitting the pulleys but I don't have any problem with the belts rubbing on the motor and I was using 24/93 with a Reedy Quad 19t last night. I still need to make up a table of ratios for the lower ratio but other than that the car is awsome.
Hope this helps
Shaun :)
university_dave
13-11-2003, 04:15 PM
I have the smoothist diffs in the world. The belts have slackend off abit after fitting the pulleys but I don't have any problem with the belts rubbing on the motor and I was using 24/93 with a Reedy Quad 19t last night.
That'd be why, you've got a sensible pinion on the car. I have to run a 20 tooth to get the right gear ratios with a 96 spur.
raymondkerr
15-11-2003, 10:58 PM
have any of you xray racers experienced the problem of the motor scraping the ground when running outdoors. I have wrecked two 19turn motor cans because my motor was mounted too low. I know what you are all think, just change the gearing spur/pinion size, but I was running a stock 93 spur but if I went for any pinion over a 27 then the motor was too low. I had to resort to using an HPI 90 spur at one point so that I could get my motor high enough and have the right gearing at the same time.
I am now running the racyer indoors on 27turn stock where the wooden flooring isn't a problem, but for next year outdoors, how do I prevent damage to the motor cans ?
Btw. I also have a Yokomo SD and have been running it indoors since Setpember - it is my first shaft drive and it is very fast, a completely different feel to the Xray - neither car is better than the other in my opinion, I like the xray because it feels very free - but for out and out accereleration - the Yok is ahead of the game, running the same stock motor and the same gearing as the xray. Just don't like the hassle of changing spurs on a shaft drive.
Raymond.
:)
marcoski
15-11-2003, 11:02 PM
Me thinks you have answered your own question!! - use a smaller spur!
DA_cookie_monstA
15-11-2003, 11:04 PM
Yeap Marcus, he most definately has... lol
scratcher
22-11-2003, 08:21 AM
Uni wot spec xray have i got?
i know this sound mad but electric is new to me i race 8th off road
ldebackker
22-11-2003, 07:14 PM
Lars, what suspension set?
I run my Raycer box stock and it's fine.
I mean the box with all the springs in it. I also ran my raycer on the standard setup the first times, but later I changed the springs. The springs were one of the first things I changed. My opinion is that you can't setup your car without the whole set, you just need to try some things out and see what happens.
But that's just how I did it.
university_dave
22-11-2003, 08:43 PM
Uni wot spec xray have i got?
T1 EVO2
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