t1

[johnny utah]

hi
i have just bought a t1 xray.
can anyone give me some advice on upgrades.
i run on a small indoor track 27turn stock class.foam tyres.
ive seen a t1m conversion kit is it worth it?

[Dan Reynolds]

Is it the original T1 with the pivot ball suspension?

If it is the short c-hub suspension would be a good up grade, as would the low ratio pulley set.

The impact absorbing lower bumper is also a good thing too :D

[johnny utah]

its the one with pivot balls
what suspension is good
t1r
t1m
tk04
tk05?
also low ratio gears what exactly are these and what do they do?

[johnny utah]

also what fits it?
can ,if i wanted ,i upgrade to full fk04/5 spec?

[Dan Reynolds]

also what fits it?
can ,if i wanted ,i upgrade to full fk04/5 spec?

you could try upgrade to to FK'05 spec but just about the only original parts you will have left are the front and rear belts and the servo mounts

[Dan Reynolds]

its the one with pivot balls
what suspension is good
t1r
t1m
tk04
tk05?
also low ratio gears what exactly are these and what do they do?

T1R - long wishbones
T1M - short wishbones (but this is a smaller 1/12 touring car)
T1 FOC - Pivot ball + c-hub
T1FK - short wishbones
T1FK'05 - short wishbones

If your looking upgrade a few parts on your car the short c-hub suspension will be the best option.
But if your really serious about improving your car you might want to stick with the same spec and save your money up and get an FK'05

[johnny utah]

whats the diffe3rence with an evo?

[Dan Reynolds]

The Evo2 was an update of the T1
I never had an original T1 but from what I remember I think they moved the cell position back a bit and also included different positions to mount them, put a different top deck on and a different rear shock tower and they updated the shocks with the adjustable pistons.
There may have been a few other bits as well but I can’t remember anymore.

[johnny utah]

heres my baby,wont know exactly what i have till i get it.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5994310895&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT

[Big Jimmy G]

The T1 (like yours) is an awsone piece of kit. I had one and it was probably my favourite car. Perhaps not the absolute fastest, but the most reliable, strongest and certainly easiest to work on.

The Pivot ball works well, is very quick to adjust, is strong but it is heavy. It also gives some understeer. The C-Hub conversion might give you a bit more steering (needed on your tight track) and will be slightly lighter. It is more difficult to change castor, rear toe and camber though.

Keep the origional chassis and top deck. The Evo and FT'04 versions are less stiff and so not good unless you race on a big outdoor track.

The newer pulley set will give your drive train a bit more efficency, useful for a stock motor.

The only other upgrades I'd go for are the spring steel axels (V strong) and the spring steel diff outdrives for the front.

Hope this helps,

James.

[johnny utah]

yeah thanks that helps.
i gonna try and keep it as it is for now ,except the pulleys.
ive just bought a pmb set up tool as ive read that the pivot ball system is a bit hard to setup.

[johnny utah]

noticed tonight while racing that the belt rubs on the motor.
im using a 22 tooth pinion and a 87 spur on 48 pitch.
the final ratio ive been told to aim for is 8.6
how do i stop the belt rubbing?bigger spur smaller pinion?

[cbcbcb]

Try a 93 spur with a 23 pinion for an overall ratio of 8.59. This combination will leave the belt clear of the motor.

[johnny utah]

ill give it a go. thanks mate.

[Big Jimmy G]

Bigger spur and bigger pinion is the way to go. Changing just one will mess your overall ratio up. Also, having both bigger will give a better mesh and less rotational friction.

Just keep an eye on the motor though - a low motor is good but too low and it will hang below the chassis. Mine has a few scratches to prove this....

James

[johnny utah]

but if i put on both bigger that will mess up the final ratio?
ive been told to aim for 8.6 -why?
if it goes higher or lower than that figure what does it mean?
also i was planning to put the low ratio pulleys on it.
X-Ray standard -------- 2.125
X-Ray low ------------- 1.77
so i assume that a lower final drive will give me better acceleration?
so i will get a 99t spur and a 21t pinion will give me 8.34

[Big Jimmy G]

An overall ratio of 8.4 (what I run) is good for a stock motor on a medium sized indoor track, say about 15x20m.

When the track is bigger, go for a smaller spur and bigger pinion and aim for about 6.5 overall. This is what I run my stock at outdoors, and the reverse is truefor smaller indoor tracks - aim for about 9.0 overall.

When you run smaller pinions you get more acceleration but a slower top speed. With big pinions you get less acceleration but the higher top speeds, as well as puting more strain on your motor and batteries. It's always better to gear for the track nt by how much you can dump fromyour cells at the end of the race.

As usual, check with other drivers at the track because each track is so different.

James