Carpet Racing (TC3)

[Kevin G]

Just got myself a factory team TC3 ;D and I will be racing it on carpet.

I have had a search through the site and have found nowt that help with regard to a good carpet set-up.

I need all kinds of advice here, springs, oil, tyres you name it I need it.

I have been told that heavier oil is the way to go and that Jaco blues or pinks will keep me on the track. So whats the view here.

Cheers in advance, a carpet racing newb!

[warr]

What I use:

Jaco purples all round
additive: full width rear, half - three quarter width front depending on track

blue front springs.
use middle hole of rear shock tower mounted on front
outer hole on wishbones
60wt oil no2 pistons

red rear springs
40 wt oil no2 pistons
cells forward

other settings as kit

If you are racing mod then overgearing the motor by 1 tooth will make the car smoother and stop it from snatching mid corner.



pink tyres are too soft this setup will work with blues but will have less grip but won't chunk as easily and will need more additive on the front tyres.

hope this helps.

[dominic evola]

Well this is what YOU need to try and find out yourself as somebody elses set-up might not suit YOUR driving style. So I think you should use the products that other people use E.G shock oil, tyres, springs etc but try to find YOU OWN set-up.

Regards

Dom

[Kevin G]

Hey! Warr nice tips (ooh err!)

Interesting set-up... me thinks I can see your thoughts here ;)

My motor choice is a dull as over cooked chips in that I intend to run the Reedy MVP Rebuildable Stock Plus. I did not fancy the thought of a modified motor indoors I felt I would not get te benifit, plus I need to learn this indoor lark from the beginning.

I was warned that my tyre choice may be a bit soft, and would wear out real quick. I will give these purples a go.

Question? I know another one!!! This additive you guys use. Is it not cheating? I mean being english with a sense of fair play it does not seem cricket to smear sticky stuff on the tyres. Whats the deal... Is it BRCA legal? Hang on wheres my manual?

[Kevin G]

Moved already! Although, I do sayTC3 A big mistake by the looks of it! I was hoping for more general view across the touring car fraternity.

Still never mind. ???

Dom take the point mate. I am just looking for some guidance really so my car dont go squirming of the track first sight of carpet. Though to be honest with my driving the only thing to help will be a rail! :P

Sadly this has been moved to the "Associated area" I hope other touring car racers give thier thoughts.

[warr]

Foam tyres without additive give much much less grip.

Use whatever additive the locals run as if the majority of people are running a different additive to you it can cause your additive not to work.

Rules vary from club to club concerning additive.

I use tq orange for the record.

[TC3]

hi kev

try this carpet set up it holds stock and mod outright race records at macc track before it burnt down

2 castor front tower inner hole

2 kick up camber link inner upper hole

toe 0 60oil yellow spring no 2piston 4mm droop

camber 2n

5mm ride h

rear

2 anti s rear tower outer hole

toe 3 camber link inner upper hole
camber 2n
5mm ride h 40 oil red spring
wheelbase short 2 piston
3mm droop

battery back

jaco spec blues front jaco spec green rear

addattive full front and back


no roll bars

might work for you might not

n wilson

[Kevin G]

Keep them coming guys!

Some interesting stuff here and in the other carpet thread which is cooking now!

[soberion]

One thing I'd point out if you're ever going to race at other clubs, not all allow additives to tyres (ours doesn't). So if you get used to driving with it, you'll suffer once you have to drive without. Also, practising your driving and learning how to take the racing line without crashing will save you far more time than the effects of tweaking your setup.

Get used to the car first, then play....

[Kevin G]

My RC experience thus far has been primarily outside with a CAT3K and AE T3. I have run the T3 indoors which was a giggle but I must admit that I am looking forward to learning a whole new ball game with this tourer. It should be fun!

My heart says dont use the additive, and to make the car go well without it.

[warr]

Additive makes a very big difference on foam tyres.
If your competitiors use it you will be very uncompetitive without it.

[Kevin G]

I know your right Warr... I think once I am confident with my car I will use it, but if I start right out then I will be buggered when I race and the stuffs not allowed.

[Andy M]

Personally it was straight on with the additive, however I don't intend to start travelling to other club nights and most championships run on rubbers.

[Simon Smith]

Warr, ive found that even without tyre additive, i can keep up with the guys who use it. hehe, probably so many who use additive that our Prima-felt is covered in the stufff, so i'm picking it up as i go round!

[Kevin G]

Aha a master stroke of genius! drive in the tracks of an additive using dude. Saves you money and helps to keep you on the track ;D

[Simon Smith]

lol, well, it certainly works for me!!! ;D

[MattWinyard]

My carpet setup for foams...

Jaco Purple 24mm
70wt front shock oil with 35lb Srping
60wt rear shock oil with 25-30lb springs
0 deg tow in/out (straight)
0 - 2 degree caster
0.5 - 1 degree camber all round (keep same)
rear battery position
one way diff

[Kevin G]

Hey thanx to all... Looking at this thread, its easy to see where to go with the shock oil.

Heavy front, lighter rear.

Jaco foams are the main choice with Purple heading it up.

My motor has arrived but sadly I am still waiting on the ESC (Novak G7)

I am still undecided with regard to the additive, I think I will hold off untill I understand my car better. Once I am running at my best I will have a go with the additive and see if my efforts improve. Until then I am to use the whiley old Phsyco trick and suck it off the carpet.. not litereally you understand! I am not a hoover ;D

[Andy M]

I've just got a load of new bots for tuning my car, got a new setup for testing on tuesday. I'll let you kow how it goes.....its something like

FRONT
--------
Shock Oil: 60Wt
Toe: 0
Camber: -1
Springs: Purple

REAR
------
Shock Oil: 40Wt
Toe: 3
Camber: -1
Springs: Red

Batteries Front
Fast Tyres 40 Shore Foams

Thats off the tops of my head, will post full detailed setup if it works.

Cheers

Andy

[Kevin G]

Looks good Andy I will be certainly interested in the results!

[MattWinyard]

-1 camber? Never tried that before... Surely to get rid of grip use a roll bar?

[Kevin G]

Thats a point! these roll bars, whats the deal... worth it on carpet or not. If I am to loose grip then surely this is a bad thing?

Whats the best advice with the TC3 roll bars?

[Andy M]

Most people I know run Front Roll bar only.

On high grip surfaces (like carpet) it is possible to actually have too much grip, this is why stiffer springs and roll bars are used.

The roll bar basically runs from wishbone to wishbone across the car, attaching to the transmission housing. It causes the wishbone to rise slightly when the opposite one is put under load.....

The effect is that the car sinks into the corner more and keeps both wheels on the ground when cornering hard, this stops problems like grip roll where your car bites in too hard and ips causing the whole car to roll (very annoying).

Hope this helps

This is only how I understand it, if I'm wrong please correct me :D

[Kevin G]

The more I read the more I want to get my kit on the track (before I go in to Hospital which is to lay me off for a month or two :'().

This carpet racing appears more technical than off road racing. no matter how an offroad car is set it will go round. Tyres are the most important thing to get right off road, but if you can drive then you will always get your car round the track.

It sounds like my initial fears were correct :(, with regard to carpet racing. if the car does not have a half sensible set up then I could be all over the shop, and my local track dont have much space so lose the car and it big bucks to repair.

The idea of the roll bar only on the front is an interesting one. and what I am going to do is use the roll bars as my first dial in tune up. First run will be no roll bars. then I am going to try front, then rear then both..

As for shock Oil, I am going to go 60 up front and leave the 40wt oil in the rear. Its light I know but I can come up if I dont like it.

Shock springs are to remain stock until I can afford a complete set of springs to fiddle with

Tyres well I said I have ordered Pinks so I will try them but I have ordered the Purples too.

The car is currently set to the manual on droop and shock positions and I am going to find my own way with those as per Demonic Evolas earlier comments.

My motor is a Reedy MVP rebuildable, heat seems to be the issue there as I have found in other posts around the great website. And the ESC on order is no less than the Novak G7

I am hoping this kit will rock, all I need to do is understand the different driving style required.

Keep the tips coming guys!

I will try to get a pic or two up in the near future... mmm Body shells I like this one




Anyone have a preference does bodyshell design effect your carpet racing performance?

[Andy M]

The generic set of shells is:

Alfa 156
Dodge Stratus 2.0
BTCC Vectra

All of these are very popular although many more are turning up as regulars at Chippenham.

I use a Stratus 2.0....I found that it offered really smooth tranistions through corners and was stable. The Alfa is the most aggressive shell and give you more turn in for those tight hairpins, I had one but never got on with it. I think the Vectra is the middle ground.

Is that one in your post the Chrysler? Been told its good but never tried it.

[Kevin G]

This is the one I have ordered yes. I thought it looked like it had all the right elements I will let you know how it goes

[GiBbO]

hey all,

ive got a mega set up that i run indoors at my local track (west bridgford) its rubbers but can go jst as good as a foam tyred car!! ;D
as follows,

front.
oil-40wt
spring-silver
middle hole (rear shock tower)
longest + highest camber link @ 2 deg
4 deg caster

rear,
oil-40wt
spring-silver
middle hole (rear shock tower)
longest + highest camber link @ 2 deg
2+0 block

d20 tyres and 038M inserts on std wheels, vectra shell

try that and tell me how u get on ;)

deano

[currantbun]

Another setup with rubbers for you

Front
Red springs
80wt oil
Inner hole on shock tower
bottom and nearest camber link
-1.5 camber

Rear
Silver springs
60wt oil
Inner hole on shock tower
lowest and nearest camber link
-1.5 camber

Pit D20 tyres with schumacher blue foam inserts

Hope it helps (its better than dean's)

Rob

[Kevin G]

Blimey, Just when you think everyone's got the same idea two geezers come along with rubber setups!

Both using the same rubber no less... you dirty boys buy two next time!!!

LMFAO

Cheers lads... I may just give those a go especially if I end up spending a fortune on the foams

[Andy M]

Generally I find foams cheaper......

Best rubber grip means softer tyres, means more wear. I only use Rubber's at main competitions when its the regs. Also at Chippenham the guys on foams are normally faster than those on rubbers by a substanial amount.

[Phil C]

Sorry guys but u dont need a decent setup with foams atall!!! just wack a set on an its instant grip. Our club is changing to rubbers as it actually requires skill to setup your car. Also whats the point in running foam tyres if all serious indoor racing runs on rubbers??? it seems a tad stupid to me.
Phil C.

[Kevin G]

Whats the ideal setup then for rubber on carpet. Does it differ greatly from the foam guys..

[Stew Noble]

i was runnin D20s on Echo yellows on saturday with this setup, i poled the stock A, and my car felt great.

Front suspenstion:
Blue spring
middle hole using a rear tower
lower inner role centre
outer hole on wishbone
1 camber
0 toe-in/out
2 degree hubcarriers
std antisquat

Rear:
silver spring
middle hole on tower
lower inner roll centre
1.5 camber
std toe in and antisquat
outer hole on wishbone

battery placement: forward
short wheelbase
6mm ride height

stew

[Kevin G]

Warning Dumb question alert!!

Are these D20s slicks?

I did warn you :P

[Stew Noble]

LOL :D,
yes they are.

stew

[warr]

Kevin G

Rubber tyres give much less grip and steering than foams. Rubber tyre setups will rarely work with foam tyres.

Stew

Were you running additive with that setup?

Looks very similar to what I was running in 19T on d20's without additive.

Trying to find a way of getting more steering at the minute without making the car inconsistant as the tyres warm up.

[Stew Noble]

No, i didnt use addative, i also found my car a little difficult before the tyres warmed up (probably why i threw away my pole pos advantage at the first corners), however my problem was oversteer, went away after about 50seconds though so i jus had to be real smooth. i prefer oversteer to understeer as i find it easyer to control.
Did you clean your tyres between runs?, i always put a little motor spray on a towel and rub around the tyre a few times. seems to make them a tiny-bit better, and a little more consuistent throughout the day, may be jus me tho :P.

Stew

[Phil C]

My setup is very similar to stews ( u copier LOL ;) jk)

Front suspenstion:
Blue spring
middle hole using a rear tower
lower inner role centre
outer hole on wishbone
1.5 camber
0 toe-in/out
2 degree hubcarriers
std antisquat

Rear:
silver spring
middle hole on tower
Outer on wishbone
upper inner roll centre
1.5 camber
2 toe in and antisquat
outer hole on wishbone

battery placement: forward
standard wheelbase
5.5mm ride height

I had a little oversteer so i stuck sum gold springs on the front. Overall the handling was great shame i was havin a bad day huh :( always nxt week i spose.
Phil C.

[Stew Noble]

me copy u ??? more llikely the other way round :-X :P ;), this was basically my setup from bedworth the previous week. for ''greesy'' conditions. kinda shows how little grip rubbers would give on carpet if setup poorly.

Stew

P.s. only jokin phil :D

[warr]

Stew

Motor spray softens the rubber so effectively you are running additive.

You aren't the only one to get problems at the start of the finals. The cars using additive or foams are a lot faster for the first few corners and invariably cause a pile up.

I think the main reason you and Phil are getting more steering is you have the batteries forward which I missed before.

I find the car is much more consistant through the race if you put the batteries back. You loose a bit of steering entering the turn but you can compensate to a certain extent by nailing the throttle on the way out. This is what Robin is running as well.

[Kevin G]

I have so much stuff too try!

Batts forward on rubber, this is the difference! Wow... I think the last few comments show that a set up does truly reflect the driver preferance. Has anyone tried splitting the bats even fron to rear? If so what happend to you?

[Kevin G]

I did say I would post back after I had my first race and heres the news

Set-up

Reedy 27t MVP Stock (Rebuildable) motor with a 17T pinion on the standard 72T spur gear.

Tyres are Green foams

Novak GT7 Speedo with XXL radio and FET 713 servo.

Bats were a mix of 2400 & 3000 sanyos

I made no adustments to the basic set-up, though I did leave the roll bars off..

Found the car a bit lively round the hi speed corners :o, so used small amount of additive on the inside of the rear tyres to tighten the car down. Car went well qualifying 4th in the A final and finishing 4th.

Main reason for not improving on qualifying place, was the limited speed in the straights :-[, though I did make up for that in the corners.

A bigger spur gear is going on for the next meeting, probably a 20T and the roll bars have been added.

Thanks for all the posts here. I will be trying many of the tips out on the car.

[B3buggy]

Hi kevin,
good result!
yeh it sounds like you are under geared, never used foams, but I would go for early 20's. then work form there.
The roll bars are used very little, just preference I suppose, and the way they are attached isnt the best.


Ross

[Kevin G]

Yer thanks Ross,

I must admit I was a bit surprised at the two screw affair to secure the roll bars. But I will give them a go!

As for the gearing, it worked in one way, with that being that the car was very controlable for my first time out.

In fact I have considered running a couple of weeks with this gearing but I thought that it might be a bit draining on my ego to watch the other guys going by so quick in the straights.

The others are also using 19 turn motors but I dont think that advantage really counted, but we will see.

I have to say that the TC3 is one of the most friendly cars to build and drive and I am well pleased with it. I think I am going to have some fun with this car.

Next purchace is some shock springs so I can make a few tweeks there.

[B3buggy]

hi kevin,
the car be will very contollable flat out, but it will also accelerate faster too, this is sometimes not good with limited grip. A larger pinion will give a smoother acceleration, so will be easier off the line, but will have more top speed. just have to let your thumbs do the learning.
If you kept up with the others using 19's then the best is still to come. At wmcc anyone top driver using a 19 would have a significant advantage.
The TC3 is one great car, just finished my warpspeed version. It handled well from the go, and qualified me second at Hereford, shame they dont have finals.



Ross

[Kevin G]

Ross,

I really only had a competitive car in the tight turns. The car was very quick out of the turns and felt sharp into them. But I was not carrying enough speed into the corners and I did get hammered in the straights.

I was down at least 3/4 laps over 5 mins on the top guys running the 19 turn motors, they had all the grunt in the straight. I noticed I would be first out of the corner, holding good line, but they were well past me half way down the straight and carried more speed in to the faster corners and shorter straights.

I have a lot to learn about this carpet racing. Its a fine balance of control over speed.

[webba]

Hi
I used to run an MVP in my TC3 and was geared 24/72. This was on a shortish track with a tight and twisty infield section. IMHO i think 17T pinion is far too low and could damage the motor.

[Kevin G]

Hi Webba

I thought that too! But you know I am never to sure about this high RPM damage thing. modern motors are designed to run at max RPM for considerable time. If larger pinions are used then it can be a case of extra load in twisty sections which means increased heat, something which is not good. It is a fine balance between load, speed and motor RPM.

I am going to try 20T pinion on the 72T Spur. My hope is the will not compromise my turn speed/excelleration but will increase my straight line top end speed. Motor Temp may go up a little due to load in the turns but not to bad. 24T pinion is also in my mind. I have one to try, this will be my max Pinion size indoors.

I was hoping to try this lot out yesterday (Wed 28th) but 1cm snow did for that. So I will report back next week after what I hope is a successful trial.

[Joost van Leeuwen]

17/72 is far too low, I can't image using such a gear ratio on anything slower than a 8T single ;)

You may even have better acceleration with a larger pinion.

How long is this track?

I have used up to 30/72 on an (large) indoor track and woud use something like 24/72 on a smallish one.

[Kevin G]

Joost,

I could not agree more... way to low gearing. But you should have seen it take off! Wow...

But for me it meant I could not over stick the power in the fastest corners. Which for me was a bonus, it meant I just had to keep the car on the track, and feel the car balance. Which once I got the over steer sorted was fine.

The next step up is the 20T my hope is to remove one full lap from my timings, we will see.

[Straightspeed]

19/75 with a Monster, on a smallish but quick carpet track. No overheating, enough acceleration and top end to keep up with anyone (in a straightline ::)) at my home track.

[Kevin G]

Well the tweeks have made me go quicker. Improved on my personal time but now the car is a bit twitchy!

I had to remove the front anti roll bar. the car was well dodgy with that on. I left the rear one on. 20T Pinion seem good in the straights on my 72T spur.

Sometimes the car dont feel balanced, one minute it turns so quick its unreal, others I think I am on glass. So, Now I turn to other adjustments to improve handling!

Any thoughts? I think a little lower on my 5 mm ride height for starters!

[DA_cookie_monstA]

Sounds more like a problem with weight transfer than ride height, being that it is not consistent. With the front occasionally being overloaded hence the feeling of Driving on Ice.

[Kevin G]

Now that’s…. funny that’s something I thought too!

All my electrics are quite light. Certainly not equal to a set of Bats on the near side of car.

I was thinking maybe a weight on the offside to equal it out. It did seem worse going into left hand corners. Going into right handers at speed was ok..ish! But left handers.. Noooo! So weight could be an issue.

A Novak GT7 and XXL weighs about as much as Kate Moss after a diet of thin air. My Bats however are like Johnny Vegas.. Right lardy things.

So weight is definately an issue. Has anyone else had this problem?

[Colin Williams]

I bought four cheap sets of kitchen scales and used tthem to check the corner weights of my car - there were some big differences. By adding a bit of weight to the the area behind the servo, and adjusting the preloads on each corner I was able to get a more even weight distrubution and that has helped make the car more consistent. (PS this was with 2400's, so if you're using 3000's then the effect will be even greater)

Using that method, you find that the ride height is not even at each corner when you've finished - but I wouldn't reccomend going below 5mm anyway.

[Joost van Leeuwen]

Have you tried it without the rear anit-rollbar?
Personally I have never used the rear one at all. (On carpet0

I did use a very thick rollbar on front. (The BRP one, about twice as thick as the standard Associated one)

b.t.w I also use a GT7 + XXL and GP3300's but I don't really notice the imbalance this causes. You could try the battery-centering mod. (Filing out the chassis and moving the batteries inwards)

I can't find the springs you are using, if you are still using the stock ones (gold/silver or blue/silver) on foams I would suggest using stiffer ones. Red/purple/yellow.
(And ditch the rear roll-bar ;) )
Also 60wt oil won't work very well with the ligth stock springs.

[keiran S]

I race a TC3 and our club has changed to racing on carpet. We have never run on it yet but what tyre would you recommend?? I am going to be trying the carpet dragons out for our first meeting using it.

I have looked up the CML site but does anyone have some tips on setting the car up for the carpet.

Keiran ;)

[Straightspeed]

Tip number one: Don't use Dragons......can't get them to work for me on my TC3 (They work fine on other cars at my local, and they worked fine on my previous chassis ???)

[Colin Williams]

Tim,

are Dragon's any better with the Warpspeed, or haven't you tried them with it?

[Straightspeed]

Good point! Have'nt tried them..................

[Phil C]

Id suggest pit d20's they give good grip and last a fairly long time.

[Waggit]

I am going to be entering the next round of the carpet masters at Stafford. The car is currently in bits having just done the battery and nitro steering modifications!! Is anyone running anything similar and can advise on setup - inserts too? I will be entering the 19T racing on D20s. I'm using this as an excuse for a new shell too - do they really make a difference?

Thanks in advance,

Rich

[Phil C]

i can help u ;D
ive done the batt mod also.

front suspension:-
Blue springs
40wt oil
middle hole rear tower
inner hole wishbone
4 degrees castor
2 degrees kickup
1.5 camber
lower inner camber link

Rear suspension:-
Silver springs
30wt oil
inner hole shock tower
outer hole wishbone
3 deg toe in 0 kickup
1.5 degrees camber
upper inner camber link on shock tower
outer on hub

batts to front

if u want the car more responsive run gold front springs blue rear. Hope thisa helps Phil C.
ps. alfa 2 is great indoors

[Waggit]

Thanks for your advice Phil. How do using the rear towers help?

[Stew Noble]

normally you would run the front 2 spring rates harder and 20wt thicker on oil,with the shock tower conversion you run 1 rate harder and 10wt thicker oil,certain tracks you can even have same springs and oil. What this will do is make the car more responsive and change direction quicker. So through chicanes and turning into tight corners it will feel like you've got more steering. You won't have as much mid-corner steering (because the front end will just slide rather than rolling and gripping the track) If you're running the rear tower on the front, you'll also need a pair of the new (version 2) front wishbones (the ones with 2 holes for lower shock mountings) so you can move the shock out on the wishbone as well. You're moving the whole shock outwards by about 5mm, and keeping the angle the same, so you'll need to drop a spring and 10wt oil otherwise you'll struggle with mid-corner oversteer.

hope that makes sense

Stew

[Waggit]

Thanks Stew, possibly a little off thread here but what do you guys think to the 200mm AE conversion kit? Does anyone run it?

[Stew Noble]

ive never heard of anyone run th 200mm kit, i think the idea of it is to give greater all round stability. or to use it for rally.

Stew

[Phil C]

I think im right in saying its not brca legal. I wouldnt waste your money on it as as stew ses its used 4 rally. Also with the rear tower on the front u must run i think 2 degree castor blocks minimum as in the outer holes on the new wishbones the shocks catch on the normal c blocks. to save trouble of buying the newer wishbones just trim 2 mm off the shock eylets. (bits that screw onto the shock shafts.

I ra D20Intermediates last week, Slicks should be very similar if not better.

Gold springs all round. 60wt front 50wt rear oil.no.2 pistons

2deg caster 2 deg camber all roound
4deg is too much indoor

0 kickup, 0 antisqat

front shock tower std on outer hole.
front wish bone, outer hole
Rear shock tower inner hole
rear wishbone inner hole.
2deg rear toe in. 0 front

car was very quick but roled too much, will try stiffer springs all round next time. i certainly wouldnt go softer.

What you have to remember is, a very grippy car, is rarely the fastet. softer it is, sllower it is to react!

as for oil, thicker front doesnt always work, depends on the level of grip. i often run 40 all round

[keiran S]

I tryed the carpet dragons today and the car was flying :o . I was running a 19t and after a few runs I put in a one way diff and went even quicker. Does anyone run anti roll bars on carpet??? because I seemed to be getting to much grip.

Keiran

[Matt Pocknell]

On carpet, I only run the front roll bar

[Straightspeed]

Me to, front only ;D

Curious as to how some people get Dragons to work and some (me) dont. What carpet do you run on? What inserts do you use?

Whenever I tried with a standard Team edition, I had zero grip, and with only two Q's and a Final, I'm b***erd if I have the time or inclination to experiment ::)

[keiran S]

I used the blue foams and the standard TC3 set up. The car was griping to much causing it to roll over at some fast parts of the track :o I have just bought an anti roll bar kit to try and prevent this from happening. I have never raced on carpet before and the grip is amazing ;D. I am using a TC3 racer but I think a stiffer car would be better on high grip surfaces. The carpet we are using is not the proper racing carpet because our club IDMC (http://www.qrcmodels.co.uk/yabbse/) managed to get the carpet for free so we are now about to hold our first ever race on it this Sunday. It is a ribbed carpet so this maybe why my dragons are working on it because they seem to have a rounder profile than the T27s.

Keiran

[Waggit]

Me to, front only ;D

Curious as to how some people get Dragons to work and some (me) dont. What carpet do you run on? What inserts do you use?

Whenever I tried with a standard Team edition, I had zero grip, and with only two Q's and a Final, I'm b***erd if I have the time or inclination to experiment ::)


I think I am correct in saying that there are three grades of carpet dragons - this may explain why some people do better than others. Part nos are

U6683
U6690
U6705

Hope this helps.

[Straightspeed]

I think 6690 are "Carpet Dragons", the others are just "Dragons" - but I amy be wrong ???

[Nick Sedgley]

I Have only ever run Carpet Dragons ( can only us Carpet Dragons at my club)
copper on the front and gold on the rear with 45 oil all round 6m ride height goes well, the rest is book setup.

[Straightspeed]

I finally got round to trying a run with Dragons on my Warpspeed. I still had no grip to start with, then after 10 laps or so it improved, but still way of the pace (two laps) in the next heat and final when running T27's. What inserts do you run?