Setups for SP12m

[burgie]

Having run touring cars, where castor, camber and toe in etc all play a big part, I am some what confused by the seeming lack of setup options on my Corally. Obviously, I am brand new to 1/12th circuit racing ('cos I don't count the Mardaves!), so what are the important setups on a 1/12th scale? I presume the shock "syrup" plays a part and front spring tension, but is that all? If this turns out to be another stupid question (you should see my post in the corally section! :-[) Please forgive me!

[MattW]

Not far off actually. There is some good info on the Corally UK site written by Andy Sawyer.

Personally i use Red or Blue rear damper syrup, 1mm front springs with a little red syrup on the damper posts. No toe on the front wheels, 4mm ride height. If you have the carbon kit then probably the most important thing to do is ditch the std front "wishbone connector" as it is far too stiff. Try either think GRP or thin C/F.

[KRob]

One thing that I remember Andy Moore telling me when he ran Corally was that a smooth diff action was very important.
My car is pretty similar to Matt's, except I run softer springs on the front (ended up with 0.8 last year).
Just make sure that the ride height is the same front and rear.

[Russ]

I wish a 1/12 was as simple as a touring car :)
Try the following adjustments to play with on a SP12M

Front - Caster, camber, ride height, goop on the dampers, spring dia, spring preload, droop, roll bar plate, tyre Dia, tyre compound, amount of additive, roll centre, toe in/out, tyre width, bump steer, ackerman, swing axle or trailing axle.

Old rear end - ride height, roll centre, T bar rake, chassis rake, amount of goop in damper, type of goop in damper, spring preload in damper, diff tightness, tyre dia, tyre compound, T bar material, T bar thickness, tweek screw setting

New rear end - ride height, roll centre, T bar rake, chassis rake, goop in side dampers, oil in shock, spring on shock, preload on shock, droop on shock, diff tightness, tyre dia, tyre compound, T bar material, T bar thickness, tweek screw setting.

Thats just what I can think of, all of these can be changed to affect the handling :o

Then there is the bodyshell, motor, batteries etc just like boring cars

You are probably best off running it as it came out of the box, much less confusing and just as fast for most of us, me most definately included!

Russ

[Glenn Atterton]

There is some good info on the Corally UK site written by Andy Sawyer

It worked for me in 6 cell. Car was tight & precise.

Did the GP @ Chesterfield 2003, only my 2nd National and made the D, Q4 F3 (I think) which was better than I expected as it was only my 2nd 1/12 national meeting I have done.

Set my 4 cell up the same way for the weekend coming as a starting point. Once I've run it I'll read the manual as 90% of the tips are all in there about haow things react once you change a setting. Rest I'll have to ask the team drivers about.