Orion/Peak V2: The best thing about 2004

[Mark Payne]

It occurs to me....

The V2 is a fantastic thing. Its killed off the need for Brushless. At the beginiing of 2004 I bought a 12*1 Orion V2 that has done the whole season and is still going strong.

I also got a 19T version and was dissapointed. Its not as fast as the traditional element 19T. So I popped a 15*2 mod arm in it and I run this at my local club meets. What a motor! I came to skim it after 6 meetings (30 runs) and I took almost NOTHING off it to true. It will last for years like this.
I do use enduro brushes at this level which helps obviously.

So V2 gets my vote for 2004 best product.

Mark

[Ginger_Mat]

Performance wise and time between maintainance is sure brillient, plus the way you can gear the hell out of them..

However soldering is a pain in the arse compared to the old style motors and as for maintainance its more complicated than before, however waying all these up these motors are definetly a great product from 2004..

Mat :cool:

[Duff]

I agree soldering on these motors is a right royal pain. I end up just cutting the wires when i come to un-solder the motor.

[Southwell]

Even with the performance brushes i can get a couple of meetings, but in my 4WD they get super hot sometimes, i did a set of brushes every couple of runs at the f3/f4's, maybe i was being greedy and overgearing :D, still very fast, reliable motor. I would definately recommend it to all drivers.

The soldering is easy i find, just make sure you don't have the wire split too much at the end and not to over do the solder. :cool:

[tonymon]

the only hard part is at 1st, wen u have to put solder on the tabs, as it came off a few times 4 me, but resoldering is as easy as normal motors tbh.

[Hog UK]

I'm considering getting a V2 motor for a couple of regional events that I'm doing. I don't want anything too hot as my 3300 cells probably won't handle it. It will be going in an MR4BCS - I'm thinking something like a 14 or 15 double.

[losixxx]

they only make them up to 14 x 2 and there like rocking horse poo to get.
probably best with a 12 x 2 in 4wd, i use 14 in 2wd and 12 in 4wd, thats if im brave enough to take the spec's out!!

[mr4man]

dave ill lend u a mod if u want or a 19 turn.
save u buying em
richard

[Hog UK]

Thanks Richard :D

PM for you.

There's a pint with your name on it next time I get the chance.

[PDW]

For those struggling with soldering to V2s, try this...

Get some 12g motor wire, cut two short pieces, and solder these to the brush holders (may need a nuclear reactor to get enough heat! :D ) so they stand pointing towards where the speedo wires arrive down the car.

Now, solder the speedo wires to the top of these short 'extensions'. You can pop them on and off as many times as you like, without disturbing the brush shunt, or heating the whole planet while you wait for the joint to melt!! :D

HTH :)

[Dave Treacy]

I have deans connectors on all my motors, makes it easy to get them out to maintain, and do just a Pete says, but I have a deans connectors about 2" from the enbell, with the other half with the ESC...works great

[spud]

Just wondering if there is much difference between the peak vantage and the team orion v2?

[rtsbasic]

Peak and Orion are both one and the same company as far as I know, I don't think there's much in it between them - the spec Orion felt more torquey than the Peak but not by much. Modified they feel about the same.

[spud]

Do they both use the same brushes?

[rtsbasic]

Yes, there's two types of V2 brushes Peak/Orion sell, endurance and sprint - endurance are good for a lot of runs and just general bashing/racing. Sprints only last a couple of runs but are a bit punchier.

[MattW]

The design is the same, and teh brushes they use are the same.

however there may be some differences in the specs between the 2. i.e one may use different wire guage, or a slightly different arm design.

[Losi NT*A.D*]

I just got a great deal on a 12x2 jukka steenari ed for my xxx4 g+. 1st v2 i've had. My question is. what is the difference in the available versions. the v2 comes with a blue endbell, a black one, green (steenari pro) & purple (Hara pro). can anyone explain

Jason

[Paul Rotheram]

the different motors are for different things, i.e the black one is based for touring cars, and the green one is specifically designed for offroad.

as mattw said its the way they have made the arms up to perform a certain way.

[MattW]

Black = 4mm arm web, high RPM, low torque, not that efficient.
Blue = 5mm arm, Mas torque, good efficiency
Stenari = Not 100%, but i think they are similar to the blue.
Hara = 4/3.5 web (can't remember) twisted comm slots.

[mike.stening]

always wondered what the difference was with the steenari and hara v2's, i have a steenari 10x1 and compared to my mates 10x2 mod it is a little quicker but barely so so what is the real difference (apart from colour)?

[tonymon]

the colours different :p

[Oliver_Pacey]

I've been running the Peak 10*2 and it's lasted me 3 days racing without having to be skimmed so far. I still think that a brushless would be a better investment though - no buying new brushes, more efficient on your batteries and basically in every respect. Unfortunately I can't afford one at the moment.

[mr4man]

steerneri motor are the 5mm arm wound to give big torque off road cars need.

[scott_davis]

I run a hara geared at 81/22 in my B4 and it is superb!!! - plenty of torque and hits warp speed quickly ;)