Reedy Spec 19T help!!!!

[Adam_Lock]

Managed to take a chunkout the original brushes of a reedy spec 19T
any ideas to why??
car was a shumacher axis 1
19t pinion
86sper
indoors on carpet

[damo]

picked up a screw maybe? ???

[burgie]

do you mean when cleaning the brush or whilst driving the car?

I have damaged a brush only once before, when I had a rather nast encounter with a wall. But the brush makeup was also at fault, as it was very brittle.

Was the motor overheating too? If so it may just be a dodgy brush. :'(

[Adam_Lock]

is when running, done three meets with it and on the third it start to lose power then stop, brushes are very brittle!! had it skimmed today and goin to try some new brushes

[millzy]

run brm brushes in it and it should go nice for you.

[mark barord]

I run my Reedy 19t with BRM brushes, stiffer springs annd I take off the rear edge of the brush (about 1.5 mm of the face of the brush).
This has realy helped the life of the brush as it is not getting so hot but you must remember that these brushes are not designed to last forever, I change them as soon as they go blue(I would be realy pleased to get 3 meetings out of a set of brushes) I also skim the com between meetings.
They (19t motors) do need more looking after than 27t but they have so much speed and so much torque, the only cars faster than mine in a straight line at our small indoor (carpet) club are brushless!

[burgie]

yep - i can agree with that. when kept in tip-top order these motors are superb. Mine is even better now i have found out that factory set, it isn't advanced! (according to our club guru). so now it is geared preoperly, regular A finals against modifieds, indoor, are not uncommon.

[damo]

i thought they were fixed timing?

[millzy]

when i did the 19t rrrci off road, i had 2 motors that i would run in the day
first motor would do prac, r1 r2 and then the second would do f3 f4 and final.

didnt play about with them becuase they are fast out of the packet.
i geard them high 32 /78 on the b4 or 81/ 31 if it was a bit smaller.

the brushes do blue but if your goos withthe sticks you can get them to run one more time

[DA_cookie_monstA]

Chris, that is a similar technique to runing stocks, except I would of rotated them run by run, so they got a good period to cool down.

[millzy]

yea Steve i did use the same tech as i did with the stock but with out the beding them in on cells part.

the only thing you have to worry about is the fact that then the brushes go off the motor gets very dead.(skim and its bk to being lush)

good thing about the motors are the fact they dont lose power when hot
and they have a lot of punch for big gearing

craig and i have been runnig them in the tours at club

[DA_cookie_monstA]

How much more quicker (poor English that) are they over stock motors then Chris?

[millzy]

well could you run in a brca nationla with a stock and make the d finla and hold of all the mods in the race to take 2nd??
you know when you came to c.o.b.r.a and had a go at Mikes b4? i had the 19 in my car that day

they are very quck m8 its like runnig a 13 or 12 with out the punch, i won the celb race at the f3 with a xx4 runnig a 19.

they are fast but you need to have very good stick fingers(lol what a word) try and keep the motor turning rather thatn stoping anf then nailing the power

[DA_cookie_monstA]

So, you drive it like a stock anyways, keeping corner speed up as much as possible, sounds good to me, and still have a bit of grunt down the straight.

Looks like I wont stick with stocks too long then.

[millzy]

no m8 you should get on with it very well as you where mr stock back in your day(not now becasue iam ) whoooooh the crowd gose.

A lot to driver i have seen mnake the mistake of not keeping the corner speed up and smothly turn the corners

[DA_cookie_monstA]

cripes, the ride height of a tourer (lower than a snake love tackle) means you should carry loads of corner speed (narrow track and everything).

Well, I will sort out me reactions with a stock at first, then aim for the giddy height og Super Stock.

Comes to something, 19turn was a hot motor when I started ::)

[millzy]

yea i remeber when i got racing that 27 was good 219 very good 15 you where jonny tucker

[DA_cookie_monstA]

yeahs, I remember buying a 14x4 and scared meself with the speed, and trying to make it last on a set of 1700's was a real pain on grass (no, not the dried stuff you put with baccie)

[millzy]

going back ot the topic for a min ;D

if you get a 4 cell pack and run the motor in on one cell for a min and go up and up till your runnig on 4 cells the motor will be run in more.
re skim the motor get rid of the now blue brushes and off you go

only do this once

[burgie]

they ARE fixed timing, but they are fixed at 0° not 24° as I think some other 19 doubles are.

[DA_cookie_monstA]

Casting my mind back then, that will make the motor a bit torquey then, which allows you to run them at a higher gearing than normal, to get the topend out of it.

[millzy]

Yes lads they are at 0deg but i had one that was wrong at it was at 4deg it was ok for small tracks but the big uns it was crap, i sent it back to cml after we found out and had a new 0deg one back

but you could feel the power loss on the big gearing so mcuh

[DA_cookie_monstA]

what ARE you allowed to do to them then, apart from brushes and springs?

[damo]

;D ;D
nothing "spec"
lol ;D

[millzy]

skimm and spacer them if they are sitting worng thats it cant do the any thing else beucase its all fixed.

oh and you cant put the reedy in a deamon or orion can and all that (big no no)

[DA_cookie_monstA]

Well, thats good for me then!!

And you would do the correct shimming on a mod anyways, par for the course.

[millzy]

yea.

i dont put motor spray in the can just give it once over with a rag

[damo]

why no motor spray???

[DA_cookie_monstA]

probably to try to help keep the glue sticking the magnets to the can sticky.

[millzy]

kills the bearings as well

top guru Gynn Ward told me not to

[DA_cookie_monstA]

news to me that one Chris, so how do you clean the botom bearing, and the endbell bearing, as they WILL get dirty?

[damo]

jsut a rag/cotton bud??
just as well i havent cleaned mine yet.....

[DA_cookie_monstA]

We got to put this into context, I was once told by a certain motor sponsor to, before EVERY meeting 'Put my stock motors in thr fridge over night'.

Now, the only downside to this was, it was info for running stocks in HOT countries, where, it could help cool the motor that, between runs, to chill the motor by use of a fan or even placing it in the fridge, so the next run, it would be cooled down. Not sticking it in with the eggs for a night...

I think Chris might gess which sponsor that may be, had a dodgy brand name too.

[millzy]

bog roll, any thing thats clean and you dont mind getting mucky

[DA_cookie_monstA]

bog roll, any thing thats clean and you dont mind getting mucky



Fresh or used? ;D

[lotusmark2]

You just could not resist it could you cookie ;D

[millzy]

Sorry guys I posted by you replied

Cotton bud for the bearing in the top and outside of the bottom but if you have small fingers you can get the bog roll in the gap

i was told the same thing Steve because it re-sets the epoxy resin??? Only did it with HIS motors.

No motor spray - little oil if you think it wants it.

BRM brushes, std spring but you can run harder on positive for more revs(like it needs it)

[burgie]

why does a harder spring on the positive make it rev higher? Is this the same for all motors?

[millzy]

With the stocks we would run a very hard spring on the positive and a medium spring on the negative for all round performance.


But I found that when the open can stocks came out you could get more torque out of the motor buy putting the harder spring on the negative.
So you ran higher gearing because the motor would pull more

I think it’s the harder the spring the more amps the motor pull but you can lose run time by dumping (if motors set up wrong)

Also you’re keeping the brush to the comm more as it’s not jumping around over bumps and that.

Best way to do it is run your motor on a pack, pull the brush out and if the motor revs die then you know you don’t want to go softer, if you push them in and your motors revs increase then a harder spring could be the answer

[DA_cookie_monstA]

The running a harder spring trick REALLY does work for 4wd, done some stocks for a Swansea member when I pitted for him one day at a 4wd RRCi off road heat, and it made the car more pokey around the track.

But, if you are doing 2wd, then it is sometimes good to back the tension off, allowing the motor to rev more, and run cooler, then, if you are good with the throttle, and can keep the car moving through a turn, you can get some REALLY silly speed, on a blade, I used to run at 6:1 indoors or out, on a 24' stock, no comm burning, no brush blueing ;)

[burgie]

guess what i'll be doing tonight then. whoopee, I lead such an exciting life! Listen to that motor rev! see those amps flood out of my cells!

[DA_cookie_monstA]

Sanwa used to make a Motor dresser, which was good, it measures off load RPM and current draw, and, once you got a little experience, then you would know what to look and listen for to get the best from a motor.

I have always believed, that in a 4WD format, it is better to have something a little torquet to pull the car out of the corner

2WD, something a little revvy as it has to push less weight around the track.

[millzy]

Yea I always feel the same Steve with the motors I run in the cars.

I’m going to play about with the 19s this weekend so that they are ready for the first w.r.c.a Craig still has the one so long as I get it back I should start this weekend.

oh yea, what I tend to do is run the car with run-on, so that when you pick the car up the wheels just turn but on the tack the cars at a stand still, this way you don’t get the harsh braking for the motors and you can keep the speed up for the corners

[DA_cookie_monstA]

Thats a good idea about not setting the car so dead stick means the motor is braking. Expecially outdoors, where you might go to neutral stick mid corner, but not want the braking affect.

[millzy]

thats about it realy cant think of any thing else can you Steve?

[Adam_Lock]

i've heard people on about filing the brushes for these motors??

does anybody this and can they tell me how??
and why do you do it??

cheers

[millzy]

Personly i dont do it becuase i nafft my motor up trying this.

im shore the lads will tell you why and what you gain

[jason]

Most people cut a little off the trailing edge of the brush, this reduces the overlap and mean you get less arching for a cooler running more efficient motor.

Jason

[MarkB]

An old stock motor trick was to "square" a laydown brush off for more torque - bascially taking the training and leading edge off.

As Jason says we've found trimming just the trailing edge helps - a bit more RPM as the brsuhes will be slightly advanced.

In answer to an earlier question - they was I understand it is the motor springs are only there to stop the brushes being forced away from the comm by arching. You know all those sparks you see when bedding in a new set of brushes. So in theory the spring only needs to be hard enough to keep the brush on the comm - any harder and you loose a lot of rpm.

Why a harder +ve spring. Well the +ve brush always wears more quikcly than the -ve, so I assume it gets more arching for some reason.

Any way it works - trust us!

Cheers
MarkB